warm engine start problem. Ok guys my 94 318 will start every morning fine . turn it on for 30 seconds shut it off restart's fine 4 0r 5 times . as soon as it warms up it wont restart unless i wait 5 minutes or hold the pedal open and crank it for 30 seconds i believe it's a bad crank sensor or coil pack . maybe even a bad dme relay any feed back will help crank shaft sensor on it's way hope that solves the problem. every thing else is new except for the coils . thanks |
I would think it is a relay. Crank sensor would most likely not screw up on a constant basis, also I don't think they stop working then start working. They usually die and never work again. Might be a hard one to track down with a relay sticking or maybe it is in the tune. Maybe too much enrichment when the car is warm. I had the same issue with my car when the DME temp sendor was not plugged in fully. It was telling the DME the car was ice cold so it always started fine when it was cold but after it warmed up it was 30 seconds of cranking with wide-open throttle to clear out the flooded motor from enrichment fuel. It never threw a code for some reason but Barrie found the temp sendor issue when looking at the values in INPA. John S |
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Best of luck finding it, John S |
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Opinon only John S |
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Engine temp sendor. If this is bad and tells the DME the engine is cols all the time is will be a bear to start when warm. I had this issue when my sensor was unplugged and it took like 30 seconds of cranking or more to start my car when it was warm. Bad temp sensor or unplugged will cause starting issues like you are having. Unloader relay on my car is located in with the DME. It is the only relay in the DME compartment. When you crank your car all accessories should turn off until your done cranking... |
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Does all you accessories stay on whenyou crank the car? radio, interior lights, head lights? If so your unloader is not working correctly and you might not have enough juice to fire your coil correctly...Weak spark like you said you had on a hot start Head temp sensor first though since I think that is the issue. Ok JohnS |
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Are you running after market coils? Make sure you check your head temp sendor cause it sounds to me like your car is getting too much enrichment on hot start which would be the head temp sendor. ***The coil low voltage issue would cause issues with cold starts too.*** Another thing maybe a bad starter... check the voltage on a cold start and if it is much higher then your starter is bad and drawing too many amps when it is hot. I've had a bad starter when it was hot it would draw big amps due to a warped armature this was not a BMW but can happen to any starter. If the starter has low voltage on a cold start and starts the car fine then you need to go to my head temp sensor therory. |
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OK so installed cold ecu car fires up 20 times swap back to hot ecu car floods wont start swap back cold ecu car starts fine engine hot soon as cold ecu get warn i get the same problem 2 bad ecu wtf ebay that explains why the last ecu i got from ebay had some chip that looked after market and the tabs looked pride open and for the orinal ecu i think i screwed it up for forgeting to shut off the key a couple times over night must have fried the resisters cuz my icv was stuck like it had heat froze ... |
Wow I'm lost after this post too much info combined. Change or check youheadtemp sendor, and check cold cranking volt to ensure they are the same as hot cranking volts to eliminate the volt issue... JohnS Quote:
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spoke to soon tried my ecu's in other car ran's good this can mean only one thing car is to rich at hot start its not cold start sensor that's new so i guess i really need to work on idle fuel setting's and low tps setting maybe even play with idle timming ... |
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i have a new sensor i even put the old one back tested both so far i have 15 hrs of tryin to get this car to tune at idle and not flood even straced the wires to the ecu pulled my injector rial cranked over car injectors shot gas like a rain fall i have to pull the fuel relay just to get it started ..it idles good not rich and if i go to the software shut down the injectors they still pulse at start up .when i install ware chip it will start 7 out of 10 times but will still flood but not as bad . barrie says i have a bad laptop cause i cant get trace to work and we both ttied reinstalling the software i give up putting it back to stock and see if that problem gos away.. |
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Let me know ***Better yet take your lap top in and get it cleaned.Remove all bots, spyware,etc and have the registry fixed. Should cost less then $70if it is real jacked up. Would be cheaper then shipping mine and yours would be fixed. Computers need to be cleaned and invalid reg entries deleted about every 6 months sometimes sooner if you're surfing pron like I do daily. It's not a twinkie and will last for 20 years it needs to be serviced |
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That flood issue needs to be tuned out of your tune or you have a bad head temp sensor. It's that simple. Inpa or ELM will tell you if you have the temp sensor issue. If the sensor is good then you have a tune issue. I think it is the head temp sensor or wiring to the sensor. My opinon only, I think the tune is good since you have the same issue with Midnight and Miller, It's the head temp sensor Can you read the temp off the sensor and see that it is reading correct coolant temps? Not off the gauge but to the DME, these are two separate curcuits. You need zero enrichment when the car is hot...Maybe a pulse you would not be able to see I bet if we put the Inpa or ELM on your car it would read -32 degrees at all times to the DME. My issue when I had hard start issues. Only found by Inpa, ELM would catch this too Perfect start when cold, when hot crank and crank until it cleared the flood then it started...Bad head temp connection...Truth....Ask Barrie John S |
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[QUOTE=blowin 4;298943]head temp is new 100% sure its the tune it start everytime with stock wouldnt this adjust my flood problem Barrie said i would never need to touch it once the a/f was dialed in . wouldn this tell my injector how much fuel to send at warm start or is it for cold start only? wtf im so pissed right now !!!! i changed all the cells on the warm up cts and my flood problem from hell solved ... you know the ones Barrie said i wont need to ever touch hummm.... i just became a tuner lmfao thanks john for all the suport. 23 hrs and 80 bucks in gas hahahhahahah. problem solved ..damn im good!! http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/IMG_4124.jpg |
What the heck have you done to the CTS MAP? :eek: You should never need to touch that map Daniel you are all over the map, Literally LOL |
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good luck! |
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factory setting floods do to larger injector... http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/IMG_4126.jpg my setting start's fine warm or cold this needs to be changed when up grading injectors or your going to get long pluse at crank whitch was my problem .. guess i was right for the first time... |
car is acting up again i dont know what to do im going to make a tempary fuel pump kill switch till i figure out this problem the only way the car start is by pulling the fuel relay ...kinda emberrasing when u have to pop the hood and start yr car while ppl are checking out yr car in the parking lot of some store or gas station you think lol... |
looks like im dealing with clinder wash down from a bad tune fml im getting 60 psi when car wont start 95 psi after clinder drys up 135 psi if i poor oil in the clinder .off to mm for rehone and new rings. thats if i didnt screw up the piston skirts and clinder walls ... |
95psi with cylinder dry is correct. I've never had over 100psi on any cylinder and I have less then 2% leak-down on all cylinders. These are low compression motors and should not make 135psi at anytime. I would do a leak-down before I pull and send the motor off... John S |
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You are having warm start enrichment which is the issue. Either remove it from the tune or figure out why the DME is enriching when it is warm. If it was fuel pump pressure valve you would not need to pull the relay for it to start right, you are injecting too much fuel on warm starts. 440cc injectors are smaller so it will inject less on the warm start so that is most likely the only reason they work ok. I would fix the issue which is for some reason your DME thinks it needs enrichment fuel on warm starts...This is all related to your head temp sensor, if the sensor is good then the wiring has issues or the tune has warm start enrichment in it and needs to be removed from the tuning... Simple issue too much fuel on warm starts. Fix the issue don't Jerry-Rig it with small injectors and a secondary kit that will need a standalone that is boost sensitive to run that motor. |
freaking bad coil's Heres the problem cold coil on left hot coil on right . low spark do to heat soak not enough spark to burn the gas...http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...h_IMG_4163.jpg |
cars running great for over 2 weeks now pulled plugs today just to have a look noticed the groung tips are white! could that be cuz im only running one step colder plugs .also i see oil on the top of the piston in cylinder 1,3, & 4 (2) looks dry is that good or bad car dont smoke or burn oil im boosting 21 psi . |
Don't worry about the ground straps how do the ceramic look. You want a slight off white color on the ceramic on the electrode tip. Ground straps can turn all different colors depending on the gas you burn. On the piston color or tops it is most likely not oil you are seeing but carbon with gas on top. The only way to really inspect the tops of your pistons and be sure is remove the head or use a Boroscope and look through the spark plug holes. No one can look through a hole without a special tool and tell what is going on inside pn top of the pistons in our cars unless there is major obvious damage. Take a macro picture of your plugs and post it with Mileage and I will tell you if lean/fat or fouled by oil or something else. Best way to read a motor is plugs with a hard run then push the clutch in and cut the motor and pull them and take the picture. Also are you logging with the LM-2? If so you should know if you are running lean/fat and that is the only thing to worry about other then timing being too high under boost John S |
my plugs look's a little rich at idle and a little lean at wot seem like heat range is ok what can you tell me john... [IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m11/tazy_01/IMG_4424.jpg[/IMG these plugs have about 60- 80 miles on them . ill take better pic's later. http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/IMG_4424.jpg |
piston tops top of my pistons after a bunch of pulls these pic's are from 2hours later the oil is dry and cooked from the heat i's fresh when i first pulled the plugs it's not speard around the pistons it's more of a line run down the piston witch makes me think the the valve steams are leaking maybe the motor not broke in fully i have exaclly 1,162 miles on it car sat for a year during turbo swap maybe i shouldnt boost over 12 pounds for an other 500 miles and see if that helps or maybe im just tripping oh and no all my cylinders read 85 psi and (4 )is at 100 psi wonder if it was a bad build or just not fully broke in any fed back please thank's http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/IMG_4420.jpg http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...IMG_4422-1.jpg looks like normal carbon build up on pic's but you can see a thick oil drop b 4 it drys up . |
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