Euro S50B30 engine swaps for TI
 

Hello to all existing and future board/forum members,

I'd like to introduce myself. My name is Alex Lipowich. I've been an active member of the BMWCCA community for over 10 years now. I've had the pleasure of being a student, instructor and club racer with this community during this time, and plan on being here for a while.

This last season I had the misfortune of ventilating a Euro motor in my race car. My efforts at procuring a replacement quickly fell through due to cost and availablility. Since that time I bought the parts I needed on my own to rebuild a race motor and to defray the cost also brought in a euro 3.0 liter engine. I have several more on the way at this point as well.

Now many of you probably fall into the group that love and covet the TI just the way it came to our shores. Light, nimble, high rev engine that you can just beat on without getting in trouble.... no doubt a well driven TI can pick on a lot of other higher HP cars that don't handle as well, or aren't as well driven. I pounded on a 1.9 Z1 when they first showed up for 3 years, so I know the chassis well. Some might feel that messing with the formula is against your religion, or that you're ruining an icon by doing a swap. This post is not for you.

If you want to maintain the uniqueness of your cars... I would like to pitch transplanting a euro 3.0 into your TI. For those of you that have driven S14's or S38's or S54's you know there is nothing like the howl of separate throttle bodies at wide open throttle.... its hugely satisfying, and nothing pops the eyes when you open the hood like a euro motor does.... ya just don't see them every day. (whoops, I left out the S62 M5 motor. Its nice too)

There is no way to make a M50 head flow as reliably as an S50 or S52. The hydraulic lifters won't tolerate high rpm. As nice a package as the US E36 M3 was, the engine was still based on the 325 head....designed to safely bring you about 190 HP.

These S50B30 motors come with a gorgeous header with equal length runners...and the metal crackle finish to show it off. You can avoid the bearing issues of the S54 and the e-drive. By getting a euro 3.0, you don't have to mess with EWS. Its simple, it bolts in, and you'll have 286 HP in a stock package, right off the bat.

We have a pair of euro motor TI's both in white with roll bars running around in chicago, and they are just unholy fun. Anyone who's been to a Windy City DS event in the past few years has seen them....usually going by in a blur!

I know I'm biased. I know I'm opinionated, feel free to correct my grammar and my spelling and try to tell me I'm wrong about this or that... but basically, I'd like to open up the dialogue, eventually sell my motors (and other bits to make them work) to TI owners in the forum, and help them get their cars to be just a little bit more special.

I did my own euro transplant in my garage with the help and support of a local mechanic for the intellectual and electrical parts I couldn't solve on my own... but over the years I've acccumulated some knowledge and would be happy to discuss the ins and outs of these projects with anyone. I need to charge sales tax in Illinois, but will try and adjust prices accordingly. I'm not looking to gouge people, just operate in the black so I can keep the company running on paper at a small profit for tax reasons. At some point soon there will be more to offer at a web site along the lines of ABL Original Parts.com

Thank you for the bandwidth,

Welcome Alex. Personally I justify keeping mine mostly stock by looking at my bank accounts and heaving a heavy sigh. Would love to see some pics though and on my next trip through Chicago go for a ride in a euro spec ti! (Hint, hint...) Driving Chicago freeways is a blast at night- never a cop around unless something is on fire. :evil_lau:

ahhhh i think a lot of us dream about the euro 3.0. thing that keeps me grounded is the thought that if i brake something, i would have to find replacement parts outside the US. anyhow though have a question about transplanting the motors. what all needs to be changed with the swap besides front suspension. can the stock tranny be used? do new motor mounts need to be placed? change the diff?

Other needs with the Euro 3.0 swap
 

Well, there are things you MUST do, and things you should do. Without a doubt, the factory TI sway bar will not work, but the stock M3 one will clear the Euro motor, and is perfect to use. These are lying around all over the place as they are often taken off M3's in an attempt to make them handle better. I would upgrade to the slightly thicker radiator. These radiators can be found on S54 Mcoupes or Z3's I'm pretty sure as a US part number to simplify things. I would also buy TMS's weld on reinforcing kit for the front subframe on ANY E36 car that runs a 6 cylinder engine....especially a transplant that uses the TI subframe which has extra perforations to accomodate the same engine mount, twisted a different way. You must use this kit or something similar.

One of the TI's running around out here has kept the original Transmission, despite what you'd think, it has not blown up. Advantage: light, its there, save money. I'd change the oil of course as a preventative measure more often. Changing the diff is always up to you as a performance mod. The responsible thing to do is to upgrade the front brakes, and there are a variety of ways to do this. Easiest I think would be junkyard front struts and spindles from an M3 with the brakes on it...... For serious track use, it is not unreasonable to get BBK of some kind. I don't have specific spring recomendations, but plenty of you guys have BTDT and could probably chime in on the rates needed for an inline 6. The S50B30 has an iron block like the US M3 3.2 had, and should be close enough weight to make it a wash.

Those are my first thoughts.

What other models/years manual trans will bolt right up to a 318ti if you do s50 motor swap?

It may be a option in a little bit when I get sick of 4 cyl. I would probably want to replace the trans and diff (and other parts??) to stronger ones since Id be pushing twice the power. Im trying see all the parts I need for the complete swap so I can start looking for good deals on the parts.

Transmission choices for S50B30
 

You could basically use any transmission that came on an E36 car. This would include the 5 speeds that came on M3's, 325s or 318's. In addition, the euro 6 speed from E36 is an option. Zionsville offers a kit to use the E46 six speeds that are now available as well.

I would re-iterate that while I don't RECOMMEND keeping the TI's manual, I do know for sure that it works, and that it won't blow up right away since one of the local ones has run it for several years. "Your mileage may vary etc etc etc". It offers interesting gearing for sure, and also the advantage of low cost, and low weight compared to other options.

Estimating arrival of these motors in 5 weeks, one of them is a rare Group N engine with blueprinted cams, special head gasket, special ecu etc.

What all is necessary to do the swap. I mean you can't just bolt that motor up and drive can you? How would the CPU work out, fuel injection, and all the little things. If this is a reasonably priced option I am very interested! Would you do the swap or is this a do-it-yourself deal?

DIY or Hand it off?
 

This is a very, very hard question to answer for any given individual, and I'm NOT trying to dodge the question by saying that.

The S50B30 engines that I am bringing in, or have brought in were made to fit into E36 engine compartments, and to plug into the electrical harness that you already have with minimal fuss.

I can not promise that every little item is included to make this work, so, if I were to sell someone an engine, a lot depends on the persons inventiveness, need to keep AC running, ability and skills, and the urge to make it look factory, or to just make sure it is safe and sturdy. There are many CD roms out there with euro parts lists to get every single bracket just so, they can all be welded on to clone a factory look.

Left had vs Right hand drive makes less difference than you might think. Either harness can be made to work with a little effort. The ECU and vanos controller that come with the engine I'd sell fit into the stock location as the US model, and the harness plugs right in. If you buy a later S50B32 with EWS issues, you'd better have an EWS car, or its more of a headache to say the least. If the engine was RHD, then you do need to acccount for slightly different plumbing for the heater, but its not expensive or hard. All parts including a reservoir if you want the factory look, the pipes and hoses, the radiator, the long radiator to reservoir overflow/breather tube, oil cooler & pipes if not present and such are easily sourced from a local dealer.

The engine comes with its own ecu, so electrically, its set to go, you just pull the old motor and its harness, and put this one in. I include a euro cluster so that you get the proper M cluster with red indicators and the oil temperature guage instead of the silly mpg indicator. It too plugs right in to the factory plugs... you may have to run one extra wire to the cluster to get the oil temp working, but its NOT difficult given a Bentley manual....especially since the Bentley manual does cover the Canadian M3's wire diagrams to some extent IIRC.

You'd need an engine hoist of course, and as commented on before it would be the right time to re-enforce the subframe with the TMS kit.

I wanted to respond to the parts availability question. When I transplanted a euro 3.0l into my trace car I had little trouble finding parts. Most of the better/larger dealers can order these parts for you. Are they more expensive? That is hard to say because what are you comparing them to. The water pump on a euro motor is more expensive than a US 6 cylinder one but then again it is a very different design (it is much sturdier and of much better quality). If you are a BMW CCA member you often can get a discount on the parts if you are installing them yourself. I have had my 3.0 euro motor for a few years and pushed it hard and I have yet to perform any engine part replacements since I put it in the car. These motors are very sturdy. For street and even track driving it should need little more than regular oil changes.

I've been playing around with the idea of a transplant for a while, and though it will be quite some time before that dream becomes a reality I am trying to read up and do some homework.

A couple of questions re: the Euro 3.0.

I'm all about a good time, but my ti is still my daily driver. How much does this mod affect the actual "ride" of the car... i.e. noise,ride,handling, etc. I realize that a lot depends on what other parts are changed out (gear box, diff etc), but in general, is the car still comfortable and enjoyable to drive through traffic?

Cost. What sorts of estimates do you all have about net cost? Again, I realize this is profoundly affected by what mods are made in addition to the bare neccessities, and how much of it you can do yourself, but just some ball park figures...? Also, how much more would you say the car costs to run? I've heard some people say it "isn't expensive" and other say, its "very expensive," but those terms are of course quite relative.

Long term issues. Assuming the job is done well and meticulously, what sorts of "quirks" are common when making this transition that I could expect to live with for the following year(s)

thanks.

Alex-

I'm looking at a 1998 and was planning on supercharging it but the Euro 3.0 definitely is more appealing. How much $ do you want for one? Would you be able to procure one of the speed transmissions too?

Euro 3.0 liter engines
 

I am hoping to sell these between 5 and 6K each. Additional parts will be available for performance or for personal choice. For example, I will be bringing in a couple extra 3.2 oilpans with the dual pickup system. These can not be used for transplants into E30 cars, but they would be fine on TI cars. Also, for people who need to pass emissions, I will have a limited number of catalytic converts that bolt right up to the euro headers. Stock mufflers will be available also, but they don't bolt on and work without modification on the TI... they would be fine on coupe or sedan E36. Completeness of package will also help determine cost as well as the mileage. I should have a cluster for each motor but in some cases it will not be from the actual car that the engine came from...... as I've had to source some from other places. Some of the cost has not been established as I only have one 3.0 in my possession that has cleared customs. The rest are on the way.... ETA about 30 days plus customs/duty.

Alex Lipowich

Alex: I may be interested in a few parts for my car. I am running the US motor, but would like to add the Euro oil filter housing/oil cooler kit as was made available for the US M3 LTW. Also, a six-speed transmission and drive shaft are on the want list...

In regards to the dual-pickup oil pan you are offering, does that include the pump as well? Further, does this pan fit the US motor, or did the LTW use a specific part used for the US cars?

I don't track the car, but I have quite a few 'odd' or rare parts, such as the ram-air duct that attaches to the left brake duct and the M3 LTW adjustable splitter. I like having the odd parts for my project, but they have to be factory parts that were available in the model year (1998-) for me. It gives a goood simulation of what the factory could have built if they were so inclined. The Euro motor was an option when I did my swap, but the Euro motors in particular, and M3 motors in general, were still quite hard to get a hold of when I did mine, whereas they are much more available now, as you well know.

Please e-mail me directly with any information you may have.

Hello Jim, I will reply in private as well.

For the list in general, the Euro oil filter housing is an item that bolts directly to the side of any M50 or S50 motor. The euro version includes a built in thermostat that controls oil flow out to an oil cooler that sits below the radiator. The euro radiator is thicker, and cools better of course. It has facility to mount the factory oil cooler underneath it.

I can not yet inspect the condition of the oil coolers and lines that are coming. Often they are damaged or not included. To be honest, when I sell a euro engine, I will be including the oil filter housing most likely along with oil lines and cooler if available.

For people that want a stock look, you could use Euro or S54 oil lines and filter housing easily. If you want a more interesting look, it is not difficult to source adaptors for this that do bolt right on, or you can tap the oil filter housing for standard AN lines and run an aftermarket oil cooler in the front of the car.

Tony Salloum at VAC sells a M50/S50 oil cover/plate with multiple in and out connections to take the place of this oil filter housing, but you lose the factory oil filter, as well as the thermostat. This housing is a very, very nice part, and adds some flexibility.

In my particular application, I had a local machine shop weld on "bungs" to use AN adaptors for my drysump system. I bypassed the thermostat since I do not drive the car in the winter, and I'm not afraid of overcooling the oil. There are multiple ports machined into the factory setup that aid in a project like that.

When I sell a euro 3.2 oilpan, it would have the pump, the pick-ups, and most if not all the hardware you need to install it, short of an oilpan gasket. I could include that too as I get a decent discount at the dealership. These dual pick up oilpans would fit any S50 or M50 engine that is in any E36 chassis. You would probably need to swap to an E36 US spec M3 front swaybar however. Almost identical, and not hard to find. The TI bar doesn't drop as much since it doesn't have to clear an oil pan the same way on the M44 or M42 engine.

I will have a six speed available for sale, but not the DS.

Alex Lipowich

For the list in general, the Euro oil filter housing is an item that bolts directly to the side of any M50 or S50 motor. The euro version includes a built in thermostat that controls oil flow out to an oil cooler that sits below the radiator. It has facility to mount the factory oil cooler underneath it.

>This sounds like the right part, but if I'm not mistaken the filter housing is replaced with a ported/thermostatically controlled part that retains the stock filter etc.

I can not yet inspect the condition of the oil coolers and lines that are coming. Often they are damaged or not included.

>I would replace all the lines anyway, as the age, temperature, shipping damage are all outside my control. (cheap insurance)

For people that want a stock look, you could use Euro or S54 oil lines and filter housing easily.

>Perhaps this is what was used on the LTW?? Do you have part numbers for this set-up?

If you want a more interesting look, it is not difficult to source adaptors for this that do bolt right on, or you can tap the oil filter housing for standard AN lines and run an aftermarket oil cooler in the front of the car.

>I won't run aftermarket for my car, but had investigated this possibility...

Tony Salloum at VAC sells a M50/S50 oil cover/plate with multiple in and out connections to take the place of this oil filter housing, but you lose the factory oil filter, as well as the thermostat. This housing is a very, very nice part, and adds some flexibility.

>Perfect for a race car, but I sometimes go to the dealer for an oil change / code read and they are scared enough of the car...

In my particular application, I had a local machine shop weld on "bungs" to use AN adaptors for my drysump system. I bypassed the thermostat since I do not drive the car in the winter, and I'm not afraid of overcooling the oil. There are multiple ports machined into the factory setup that aid in a project like that.

>Again, perfect for race use. Mine is a year-round (weather permitting) daily driver. When I'm in CT, it is parked all winter because all the salt is removed from the Atlantic ocean to place on the roads...

When I sell a euro 3.2 oilpan, it would have the pump, the pick-ups, and most if not all the hardware you need to install it, short of an oilpan gasket.

>Perfect. That's what I needed to know. Price shipped?

These dual pick up oilpans would fit any S50 or M50 engine that is in any E36 chassis. You would probably need to swap to an E36 US spec M3 front swaybar however.

>I have the complete M3 front suspension installed, so the sway bar is already there.

I will have a six speed available for sale, but not the DS.

>The drive shaft is required, as the length is different. It won't work in a ti or a regular E36 sedan or coupe. You may want to press harder for the drive shaft, or at least get a good part number so it can be purchased new. Also interested in price shipped on this.

Thanks for the info, and I look forward to your e-mail.

Reply to email
 

Sorry about the delay.

From the above message, there was a question about oil cooling and how it was supplied on the LTW.

The LTW did have the oil pan and dual pickup pump in the trunk wrapped nicely and not installed. None of the LTW were sold from dealers or PTG with Euro motors, though the Snyder Brothers here in chicago had theirs built that way at PTG..... and they are works of art. The LTW had stock US M3 motors without the oil coolers.

Also from above, I anticipate selling a complete oilpan with dual pickups etc delivered anywhere in the US for about $900. First shipment hit Montreal last night, so very shortly I will be able to sell this stuff. Very exciting!

Alex,

So my car is almost J!ms twin. Red with an s50USB30 conversion. This spring I intend to do some work on the car. I'm installing Schrick cam/injectors/SW, euro oil cooler, oil pump nut retention, and while I was at it, I was thinking of baffling the oil pan. Now that I've read your thread, I'm thinking might as well do the dual pick up pump/pan instead of the Turner baffles. I'm interested if you've got some to sell.

Chris Lee

Rogue Engineering 330ti

Alex,

I'm very interested in the Euro motors and would love to go into frther detail w/ some aspects of pricing. Could you please e-mail me @ progresshon@hotmail.com

Thank You.

hello Sean,

I have received the first container from europe, and done all the pertinent math, so I have firm prices set now.

As mentioned, people that are buying an engine package may also have access to a host of other go-fast-goodies such as dual pickup oilpans, 3.2 headers, track pipes, Catalytic converters if you need to pass emissions, mufflers etc....

Please do not ask me what my best price is, I'm not particularly into haggling, and I've priced these to move quickly. In case anyone hasn't noticed, the british pound and euro are kicking our collective behinds, and its not inexpensive to bring this stuff over anymore.

Alex. Please see the website for prices.

http://abloriginalparts.com

E36 S50B30 Euro Motor Package...How many miles are on one of these engines? Did they come from left hand or right hand drive cars? Would YOU be able to install this?

Thanks

Mileage and installation in Midwest
 

The two motors have between 50 or 70K miles. Very low miles. I personally am able to install the motors, but don't have the time or inclination to do so. I can comfortably refer people to local talent for the installation, and if someone in the midwest is serious, I do believe I could arrange for competitive pricing on an installation. But, this has not yet be requested, and frankly, I'm not planning on opening a shop to do this kind of work.

Locally Patrick BMW has extensive experience with transplants such as this. In addition there is at least one local shop that could probably take this on as well.

Alex.

This looks like its probably the best reliable hp increase you can get for 5k, but i still dont have 5k to spend. I would do it if I had the money.

Hey, just the man I wanted to see, they want 7k w/o tranny for the same 3.2 euro m3 motor on bimmerworld, ripe off. I could by a turbo kit and have it installed for cheaper on an m3...

Anyway, here is what I was thinking of...

3.2l Euro m3 motor
Schrick Camshafts
Cold air intake (take care of this one on my own)
UUC pulleys
Victory product design oil cooler kit

This was taken off a recent article in euro tuner but I was thinking of this long before I saw the article it just helped my thought process along.

Also, any ideas wether a custom quad-tip exhaust is possible, ah-la e90 m3? I love the look of it and would like to have a little show with my go along with a tastefully done widebody to give it the DTM look. Anyway, let me know what you can do performance wise to the engine and how much a slightly beefed up motor would go for. I hate to do the "hey how much would this cost" and not buy anything because I am still planning out my project but I need to get a bearing on price.

Also, how is handleing changed? obviously I will do suspension work but I would like to know what your impressions are with the added wieght in the front.

RE: Options for Virgil
 

I responded in private to Virgil.

The short version is that the euro 3.2 is not as easily tuned in the US as the 3.0 version. Schrick does make cams for both engines, but of course doesn't supply you with programming to take advantage of them.

Still have a Euro 3.0 ready to ship, and another that should be ready within a month when I clean it up and put a proper harness and intake on it. There was some damage to it from the donor car that precludes selling it as is.

The Group N, the M5, and a 3.2 have all been sold along with the CR transmissions. I have one core CR trans left.

Alex Lipowich

Ahh, what is the output of the 3.0 euro motor?

The euro 3.0 engine is rated at 286 HP. This was probably an intentional bit of marketing to bask a bit in the old glory of the S38 senior six M engines that were found in the euro M5 and M635csi models. We got the toned down version of those engines at 256 HP in our M5/M6 cars. The 286 may not seem like much compared to what you get with a US spec M3 E36 engine, but in reality, it is hugely difference in terms of torque, redline, "rev" tolerance and pure adrenaline rush induced by the 6 TB set up, and the feeling when it "comes on cam". EVERYone has heard of money shifts and the problems associated with hydraulic valves... the S50B30 has of course the better set up with shims and buckets.

Alex Lipowich

True, what performance mods would you recommend, simple stuff to tack on an additional 15hp or so to compensate for parasitic drivetrain lose?

responded in private.

RE: More engines coming
 

Second container hits Chicago this week or next. Its in Montreal. I will have full pricing available once I check on condition, appearance, and have the final bill for the transport of these 5 motors.

Have 5 and 6 speeds coming as well.

This is the second shipment, and if anyone is looking, please email me at xyobgyn@aol.com to look into buying a euro motor.

Alex Lipowich

New Website!
 

I can not claim to have made a lot of progress on the TI project, but its still creeping forward.

On the flip side, I have put together a nice website, it is located afterall at ABLoriginalparts.com

Feel free to browse, and ask questions.

Alex Lipowich

RE:New website
 

Not sure if my last post made it.

I do now have a more advanced website for everyone to look at.

It is afterall located at: ABLoriginalparts.com

Feel free to write to me via the site with questions.

Alex Lipowich

Just wanted to chime in to say that this thread rocks, tons of good information I hadn't seen before... Nice site too, that ltw race car looks sick.

Alex- I was looking at your new site on Friday just b4 you posted this. Nicely done! I will be in Chicago (downown, river north area) from Tuesday to Saturday. Where are you? I was hoping to get a ride in a swapped ti, but oh well. :biggrin:

Might still want to connect with you if you are at all commutable by Metra, L, etc. Email me pls. Thanks!

Hi guys!

This is my first post at 318ti.org. :D

I have some very specific questions that I can't find the answers to ANYWHERE!

Firstly though, I'll be straight up and tell you I don't have a Ti, I actually have an E36 318is, '97 vintage in alpine white, manual.
The main reason I'm here is because of the amazing wealth of engine-swap knowlege that resides here on this site.

I recently bought an S50B30 (euro engine, I'm in Australia :P), complete with guage cluster, wiring harness, ECU, 5sp transmission, COMPLETE front and rear brakes, and a FULL M3 body kit. All of this gear comes off a 95 M3.

Now my question to you guys is...

Being that my beloved 318is is a 97 model, it has the digital air con system. The car that all of the new stuff is from is a 95 model with the analog air con unit.
Is it going to be possible for me to get the digital air con system running with the ECU off the 95 M3 engine?

Also, is there ANYTHING else I will need to complete the swap? Obviously I'll have to source a diff from somewhere. What about the suspension though? I already have Bilstein Sports struts with Eibach Pro springs (AWESOME handling for a non-coilover system) Will I have to buy new front/rear suspension componants to make things work? What about the crossmember? Will the new engine fit with the existing crossmember or will that have to be reaplaced aswell?

Any other bits and pieces I will need to make the swap quick? I really want to have all the parts waiting, so as to minimise down time of my car.

Thanks in advance for your help guys,

Shane.

I have no idea on this one... tis don't have digital climate control. My guess is no, but maybe.

The diff from the M3 should fit your car. You will also want the drive shaft.
Front springs will need to be changed for increased engine weight.
Engine sits on the same cross member, but motor mounts from the M3 must be used. Tranny also fits on the 318 cross member, but it moves back to a new set of holes.

Full cooling system, get a new clutch, use the M3 slave cylinder, change all hoses, air box is needed from the M3, I would suggest changing the full rear suspension, not just the diff. Since you have access to the donor car, just swap the rear sub frame complete. Traction control will not work (plus the '95 did not have it anyway), the EWS will need to be bypassed in your '97 too.

I have eibach pro springs at the moment, they are quite stiff. They should be fine until I get a set of PSS9's shouldn't they? Speaking of which, I'm guessing I should buy the PSS9 kit for the M3, not 318is. Even though my car came with MTEC suspension from factory, if I got suspension for the M3 I could make the M3 brakes work, is that right?
Or would a better option be to keep the bilstein shocks I have now, buy some eibach springs for an M3, sell the M3 brake system and buy a BBK to suit the 318 suspension I already have?

Radiator, oil cooler...? (Don't know much about this area)

I'm told most of the lines are earls braided, they should be ok shouldn't they?

Would I better off getting an aftermarket one? I thought a pipercross carbon fibre one would be nice. Open to suggestions though :)

I don't have access to the donor car, as it's not really a donor car. The guy is going through an engine swap himself. Any other parts I need I will have to source from a wrecker. What is involved in the rear subframe? Which parts will I need to start looking for?

How does this work? Is it just a matter of not wiring something in? I've heard that something to do with the EWS needs to be re-aligned at the BMW dealership. What's involved?


Thanks for all your help so far.

Shane.

Trying not to sound like a jerk here...

Anyway, I'd like to suggest you invest in my swap manual. Some of the information may not be useful to you, but much of it will be of use to you, based on your questions. You are definitely doing the right thing and doing the homework before you start bending wrenches.

The manual was compiled while doing my swap, and it undergoes constant up-grades as new information becomes available to me. I also have an extensive listing of necessary and/or hard to find parts, including Euro-only parts that may be of interest (I've actually thought about selling this bit separately recently).

making it all work, and look like a factory installation is the name of the game for me. Up-grades and other 'mods' after the fact are up to you...

PM me for more information if interested.

Latest news:

I've found a cracked subframe that I can pick up when I go down to pick the engine up next week. Apart from the subframe that surrounds the final drive, what other rear axle parts will I need to swap?

RE the air conditioning, I had a look around the some of the user gallieries on this site to see what the Ti air con unit looks like in comparison to the 95 M3 part. The heat control is the same, though as far as i could tell there is no differentiation between passenger and dirver sides. This makes me think that it might only be a matter of power to the unit itself in my case???
Maybe we could work inversely.
How do the guys that swap in S52B32 euro engines make the controls work in their digital units? The B32 cars all have digital air con units. Is it just a matter of power for the analoge units?

The air con matter is the ONLY thing making me think twice about the whole swap. Sounds pedantic, but that's me. I really need to get to the bottom of this one guys, any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Cheers,

-Shane.

k,

I'm going to make the first step and do the suspension and brakes. I already have the front and rear brakes off an M, and I'm going to change the bilstein/eibach combination I have at the moment.
I'm going to upgrade to the Bilstein PSS9 system, but I'm not sure weather I should get the M3 set or the 318is set. The M3 set has provision on the front shocks for the stock swaybar. Aside from that feature, what would be the difference between getting a PSS9 kit for the 318is and getting the M3 kit?

Thanks again,

-Shane