Odd Starting Problems
 

Ok, this is going to be long:

I pull up to my apt building and noticed that there was a coolant leak. I couldn't see i where it was coming from, so I waited until the next morning to check it out. The next day I went out to move the car to a side street and check out the coolant problem and it wouldn't start or crank. All lights came on, but no start/cranking. So, at that point I suspected the EWS or starter. The car has apparently had EWS issues before (won't recognize keys after a while).

Anyway, I paid the parking meter for the rest of the day and the next day once I had a clear path, I pushed the car to a side street. While rolling down hill, I made a point to try to start the car w/o the starter. It started! I turned the car off and turned the key back to the start position. It started again! This time with the starter! So, I thought it was a one-off caused by a "flat-spot" in the starter or something.

NOPE! I came back out later and it wouldn't crank again. I pushed the car uphill to let it roll again. It started (via push-start). I drove the car down the street to a long hill for a few repeated tests. Once there, I turned the car off and back on twice with a start each time. Then with the car running, I got out and checked the coolant leak. It was coming from the water pump. So, at least I know what that's about. Then I got back to the starting problem. Now, I turned the car off and back on...no start. I tried about 10 more times with the same result. I let the car roll start and it was fine. Then turned it off...it started just fine then no start. I did this a few more times, with it following the same basic pattern.

I'm stumped! Coolant leak caused short perhaps? Please Advise!

Could be coolant messed up the starter.

If you look at the started replacement thread you will see there is coolant routed in the area of the starter.

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...arter+solenoid

Looks like a bitch replacing the starter on this car.

Did you check all the fuses?

I checked all of the fuses.

The coolant is leaking out of the water pump at the front of the engine, so if something shorted out because of it, I would expect it to be up front. So, is there anything connected to the start bus up front that could have shorted vs. the starter itself?

Probably just an unfortunate coincidence that two things are going at once.

You might try to jump start the car just to be sure the battery is okay.

I know you said your lights were bright, but I would try it before going further.

checked the battery. it is fine

Replace the waterpump, clean the head's surface, new gasket, some sealant, cooleak leak done. Also, change the thermostat if you havent since ownership.

As for the starter, these go out all the time, sounds like youre due for a new one or need to check the wires to it.

Any progress?

Not yet. The torx bolt on the water pump is frozen. I let it sit in PB Blaster overnight, so hopefully it will come off when I walk back out there in a minute. I haven't really checked out the starting problem yet. Once the coolant leak is fixed, I'm going to check for error codes and clean the contacts. Then I'm going to go to the local pick-and-pull and pull some stuff off a ti that they have. If they still have a starter, it would only be $6 for the solenoid. I also want to check the clutch safety switch. If that stuff doesn't work, I'll put down the funds for a new starter, and go from there. I'll update later today.

Lunch update:
The new water pump is in and the leak is gone. The car started for me four times in a row then the start problem came back. Hopefully, I'll have enough time to go do more work on it today.

One problem solved!

I still suspect that battery, but that's just me.

jump start didn't work. 13.8v between the terminals with the car turned off.

While jumping it, I hooked the multimeter back up and it read 12v until I turned the key to the start position. Then it read 16.8v. So, then I ran out of time and came back later.

Later...
The multimeter now read 15.4v with the car turned off and 15.2-15.3v with the key turned to the run position. When I turned it to the crank position it dropped to 15.1-15.2v. So, I guess it's either a broken wire or some start relay not kicking. Time to break out the ETM...

The Haynes manual says if the lights dim when you operate the ignition switch then current is reaching the starter motor and therefore fault must lie in the starter motor.

If they don't dim and no clicking can be heard from the solenoid, it indicates a fault in the circuit or the solenoid.

There is a "starter interlock relay" 61358364175, but it is only on the automatics, and since you push started the car, I assume you have a stick.

Broke down and made a service appointment. I should know what's wrong tomorrow

I suggest you have both the battery and the Alternator load tested as the volt difference suggests a rectifier diode is burnt.