+1^ I did the same thing on my S50 OBD1 swap, but that (power?) labeled wire, is indeed to the + on the Dist. Block, and the other one is a ground as you had it, or any where you can get a good ground, but that is where mine is wired.

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showpost....06&postcount=4

Jess,
You Sir, are awesome! This whole forum is awesome! Thank you very much. :smile:

Update:
Got the power cables connected on the “power block” next to where the original battery was located.
Ground that I showed in that earlier video is connected – the one next to the passenger strut tower.
Ground on passenger side engine mount is connected.
Ground between fuse box is connected.

I replaced the battery. The old Miata battery (relocated to rear) was too weak to turn the engine. Replaced with new stronger/larger battery.

I insert key; turn; starter engages; my spotter daughter yelled at me “all the stuff on the front is turning (belt, fan, etc.).

However, the engine will not start. I let the starter engage for 5-10 seconds at a time. Nothing. She turns healthy since the new battery has been installed, but again, no start or even an attempt to start/stutter.

Out of curiosity, I pressed the Schrader valve that sits on the front of the fuel rail to see if I can get some fuel squirted in my eye. Dry. No fuel squirting.

I’m new to T/S a car so only one way to learn...
Let’s give Fuel a try:
I do not hear any buzzing or clicking as I insert the key prior to starting. I used to hear these noises and I assume it was the fuel system getting ready to do its job prior to starting. Again, at the moment I do not hear these indications.

According to Bentley’s page 160-6, the Fuel Relay is the 1st relay of the top 3 located on the upper part of the fuse box. It should be the one located next to the ground. In the case of my S52, it is purple.

I jumped using a wire into sockets number 30 and 87. The S52 emissions fan (now located where the battery was located) kicks in. :confused: I did not hear any fuel related sounds kick in. Am I doing something wrong? Are my relays in the wrong location? :confused:

More to follow...

I seem to remember somebody figuring out that the stock ti fuel relay location listed in the Bentley is wrong. The fuel relay is one of the greenish 306 relays, but it's the other one. Make sense?

According to Bentley and TIS, from front to aft direction, the relays are:
fuel relay
DME
Oxygen sensor heating (emissions fan???)
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/00/30/72

Today I plan on doing the following:
Remove stock 318ti fuel pressure regulator and valve (located under driver's side) and replace with the same set up from my M3 donor. I believe the 318ti is 3.0 BAR and M3 is 3.5 BAR. Also, the fuel filter on the M3 had about 5 miles on before the car got totaled so I will swap the entire assembly.
I'm also going to check my fuel hoses. I'm 100% certain they are not mixed but you never know...
I also just found my Peake code reader so I'm going to plug it in and see what I get.
I sure hope it's not the fuel pump. Everything I've disassembled from the TI (nose, etc.) in inside the car. :eek:

T/S continues...

where are we able to confirm that the fuel pressure regulator on the M3 is 3.5 BAR and the ti is 3.0 BAR? very interesting.

Hi Marv,
The BAR data is just a guess, but looking at real oem parts listing and comparing my last 7 VIN on both my cars (M3 sedan & 318ti) ...

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...03&hg=16&fg=15
M3 model, Item #11 Supplement info 3,5 BAR

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...03&hg=16&fg=15
318ti model, Item #11 Supplement info 3,0 BAR

I've read in several forums Real.oem can be misleading or very generic. Again, I have no clue if this BAR info is accurate.

Since Bentley at least partially uses the TIS to prepare their books and it's been determined that the Bentley lists the wrong location for the ti fuel pump relay don't you think it's worth the effort to double-check that before you dive into the more complicated/expensive stuff? Just curious.

This thread may also be helpful:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...uel+pump+relay

It's sad that I have to use the internet to augment my hazy memory, but I was pretty sure I'd been down this road before:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...ighlight=relay

hmm, i will have to look into this now. I've been good so far with my stock regulator. I wonder what the difference is if i would change it to the M3 spec one. questions...:confused: We'll see. Thanks for the good info though.

Have you confirmed that you are getting spark? If no spark & no fuel, the ews is suspect and may need to be realigned...

when you turn the key you should be able to hear the fuel pump turn on. its light buzzing sound. that way you know for sure the fuel pump is working properly. if you turn your key and notice if the lights in the cluster turn on then as james stated it might be a EWS issue. I remember when this happened to me i noticed everything would turn on and the starter would be working but then there is no final spark that would turn the engine over. i then switched over the little black antenna for the EWS ship from the M3 that is located around the cluster area/steering column into the ti and BAM it would start.
Did you try switching the antenna and the chip in your key?

if you don't have the EWS system in your ti you may have to have it deleted from the EWS or bypassed. Tony, aka bluebimma, can inform you what wires to cut or connect to bypass it.

The only EWS mods I've performed are:
Chip in M3 key is now in the 318ti key.
EWS (has a green label with EWSII) box from M3 has replaced the 318ti box and is now plugged in the yellow plug behind the glove box.
M3 ECU is now plugged in in cubby hole on passenger side firewall. It's nice seeing 77K miles on the odometer again (original TI had 140K on the M44).
I have not done any other EWS modifications.
I will look into the "EWS" by-pass mod by Bluebimma.

Ordered a replacement OBD2 engine harness. F'd up and mistakenly swapped relays by putting one of the light green (either the fuel or dme relay) into the emissions fan socket. Smoked a ground wire in that fan relay.
To be on the safe side I'm replacing the harness. So "while I'm in there" syndrome has kicked in so I will also replace the sensors under the intake (crankshaft, camshaft, and temp) new icv and it's hoses, new elbow (from z3 to delete acs).
Object is to make this a very reliable DD and put a ton of miles on it. The S52 has 77k miles and pretty much every gasket, hose, sensor is new.