Shellback’s Project Well, I’ve started my project. I’m really taking it slow since I’ve never tackled a job like this before. I have access to a storage facility where the project is taking place. I have a bunch of tools at the site including pneumatic tools and an engine lift. I also have J!m’s manual and a Bentley. The donor: 1997 M3/4/5, 70K miles, rear ended :frown: Alpine White, Dove grey, completely stock. The beneficiary: 1998 318ti M Sport, 5 speed, artic silver, black leather/blue grayish cloth. This project is going to take some time since I have the donor vehicle and I need to remove the engine/transmission first. Also, I want to do some PM on the engine once it is removed, including washing the engine, making it pretty. So far, I’ve removed the following from the donor: - exhaust, heat shield - Drive shaft - Shifter link has been removed from transmission. That famous clip was doing its usual :mad: - Front bumper, grille (my plan is to remove engine and transmission together out the front) - Radiator, a/c condenser, air box, air flow meter and boot. Throttle body is still attached to engine. Now I’m a bit confused. I’m not sure how to remove the donor engine: - Do I need to remove the intake? - If I do, I’m not sure how to deal with the injectors, fuel rail, etc. It looks complicated for my level of experience. But again, I have a ton of time to get it done. If someone could point me towards a link or set of instructions on how to remove an E36 engine, I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance. More to follow.... -SB |
buy yourself a Bentley and a Haynes manual. You might even consider this: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12912 |
5 Attachment(s) A few random photos from the past and where I’m at now. |
3 Attachment(s) I had to cut trunk apart to salvage spare tire. I love Contours! Impact must’ve moved drive train enough to shift center bearing and crack transmission support. |
cut the trunk and rear windshield off and replace it with the Ti's hatch and rear bumper. You'll be the only one in the world with a 4 door 332ti:biggrin: |
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cutting the trunk apart to get the spare, you sure don't waste anything :lol: what kind of shape was it in? |
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In short, there are MANY ways of removing and installing these engines. |
Update: I’m going really slow with this project. Good thing I haven’t tackled the ti yet! I’m actually learning about cars as I take the M3/4/5 apart and try to comprehend what different systems do; how they are attached to the car, etc. Also I’m learning about tools, fasteners, and all that good stuff. So far, I’ve removed the complete front fascia off the M3. I’ve removed the engine w/ tranny in one piece. I used an engine hoist to remove the engine and attached the engine to an engine stand. I was a bit leery if the engine stand would hold the S52 but I was assured by the folks at fastenal that sold me the M12 bolts that it will hold. They were right - it worked like a champ. While the engine is out and sitting on a stand, I’m planning on doing the following: - Replace valve cover gasket - Locktite the oil pump nut (replace oil pan w/ new gasket while I’m at it) - Replace belts - Replace studs that hold exhaust manifold. Some nuts backed out but whan I tried tightening, the entire stud rotates. - Replace H2O pump & t-stat. - Clean the engine with carb cleaner and try to make it pretty! - I will not be doing any maintenance on the tranny since it recently had mounts, clutch, flywheel, TO bearing, etc replaced. I will need a tranny mount bar though to replace the one cracked from the accident. I’ve gutted the M3/4/5 interior and plan on posting items for sale on this forum (since I believe some items are compatible with the compact) and also on our friendly sister-site, bf.c. I’ve discovered a few items that need replacement prior to swapping the engine into the compact. Somehow the throttle body off the M3 fell on the floor when it sat on the fender, even though it still has the cable attached. I discovered one of the “hinges” or rotating plastic parts that move the cables broke. I will post a photo soon of what I mean. I hope it can be replaced. Well, that’s it for now. This project will take a long time, not because I’m not interested, but I’m really learning a lot and my work schedule only allows me a few hours per weekend. |
5 Attachment(s) Still trucking... - As J!m had written in his manual, discovered how thin that plastic shielding that sits sandwiched in the cowling area. - Replacing cabin filters... - The insulation or lagging that is attached to the transmission tunnel was all deteriorated. Had to cut it out. Will this be a problem in the future? |
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Replace with something like this? http://www.secondskinaudio.com/therm...-wave.php#tab5 Thanks for the tip. Its hot enough down here as it is! I really don't want to add something like bed liner or something that is painted or sprayed on. |
I'm sorry shellback, I misinterpreted your previous post and thought you were referring to the aluminum or tin heatshield that screws onto the transmission tunnel above the driveshaft and exhaust. Looking back, I realize that you were referring to the cloth-like insulation that drapes down from the firewallas seen in these photo's: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/CIMG3495.jpg http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/CIMG3496.jpg I don't think the cloth insulation is as critical for heat displacement as it is for sound deadening. I'm no expert on this, so my advice is mearly an opinion. I think as long as the waffle-stamped heatshield is in place, the floorboard shouldn't get too hot. Again, it may be a little noisier inside of the cabin without the cloth insulation in place. The product that you linked looks like a safe alternative. Hopefull someone else will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong. |
Good progress so far, keep up the good work. As for the insulation, I would try the product you posted. Seems to be thicker than the original material. |
quick question... Can I start the engine for a quick test start without the driveshaft installed? Only thing I will have is headers, so it should sound beautiful! Reason is I just want a quick fix in order to motivate me to get off my ass and finish this swap! |
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BTW, looking back at my previous post, I feel like i might have misguided you by saying that the insulation was un-needed. Yeah it helps sound deadening, but it's also right above the exhaust manifold. I hope the passenger legwell doesn't get too hot and melt any wires. Might want to take that into consideration(if you haven't already) before you actually start driving the car. Sorry man. |
Thanks Jess, I went ahead and ordered some material to cover the firewall and transmission tunnel. I’m also concerned about heat affecting any wires or other materials. On a side note, did you use your factory A/C lines when you did your swap? I’m using the compressor from the M3, but wasn’t sure if I also needed any other parts from the M3 A/C system. ____________________________ Edit*** Nevermind. Read a few other posts, seems like other projects included swaping the entire A/C system, including all the lines *** |
Utter frustration... Well, I wish it was going as good as other swaps. Right now I’m just frustrated and need to walk away from this project for a few days to calm down. I’m stuck with an S52 crooked in the engine bay. It will not budge. It is literally stuck and I can’t place it on its correct location. To make it worse, I need to pull it out again because I broke some items while trying to install it. Here’s what happened: - I thought the S52 was going to be as easy as removing the M44. I was wrong! - I got the engine bay nice and clean, wrapped the P/S bracket with some nice ¼ ID hose to protect it. I even applied some heat shield on the firewall since the original lagging type was all deteriorated. - So far all is going well. I replaced the heater hoses on the heater valve located on the Driver’s side firewall. However, I noticed I should’ve installed the heater valve hose on the engine first and then once the engine would be installed, hook up the heater hose on the heater side last. Anyway, too late. See below... - I scratched the hell out of my paint on the passenger side strut tower. I also scratched the hell out of the actual valve cover due to I didn’t remove the coil plug bracket. So I cut the bracket with a sawz all, but it looks like crap now. - As I tried to continue installing engine, I bent the P/S bracket that I had meticulously wrapped with hose. Out comes the sawz all again... Finished product on this sawz all rush job is a razor sharp edge that would put my Wüsthof bread knife to shame. - Of course, it gets better. I should’ve quit but instead I figured I do the sheet metal work later once the engine was in. I figure I can just mask it really good...As I tried to avoid the steering column, I didn’t notice I kept messing up the cowling lip – which sits right below the plastic cowlings below the wind shield. - So I finally got the oil pan over the steering column aluminum part J!m warned us to be careful with. I was able to get the Driver’s side engine mount arm on the engine mount. The passenger side was not installed on the engine as recommended by other posts. - Then I notice the two plastic tubes that hold the heater hoses and exposed, so somehow, all that moving around must’ve loosened the hoses off. Strange, because I remember I had nice new tight OEM hoses with the really good OEM radiator hose clamps. Well, you guessed it – I tore the firkin hoses off, along with the actual threaded part. Basically, I need a new connector, and somehow try to salvage the new hoses with plastic connector still inside... - I decide my next move is to get the engine out. This has gone long enough and I’m rushing it so I need to start all over again patiently. I also want to grind the brackets I hacked off previously and finish them off properly with primer/paint; replace the heater valve connector I destroyed; and whatever else destruction I caused. - But now the engine is stuck. It is crooked. I think the driver’s side is ok, but the passenger side is where I’m stuck. Again, I have no engine mount on that side installed yet. I also notice the area around the valve cover is wedged pretty bad on the passenger side firewall. I tried lifting the bell housing with a floor jack to try and wedge her free, but no luck. - You are going to kill me when I tell you this next part, but I really overlooked this important part from J!m’s manual. I removed the S52 from the donor engine, along with the M44 from the ti with only an engine hoist. I did not use an engine leveler. I figure if the S52 came out of the M3 sedan with no issues, and the M44 came out the same, I didn’t need an engine leveler. Also, my connection points for the engine hoist are the front pad eye on the S52, but I’m wrapping the chain around the bell housing. There is a connection part between the bell housing and block, but I do not have any type of attachment/clasp to hook up to it. And, once the engine is in its place, how would I remove that connection? The chain around the bell housing method worked to remove the S52 and M44. - Ok, so maybe the issue is that I need an engine leveler to INSTALL and engine...I tried several common auto part retailers and no luck. I found a Harbor Freight and figured I’d visit it since I’ve never been to one before. I was surprised with the quality of the junk I witnessed in there! I mean, the items on the website look nice, but this store was scary! A Big Lots store looks more like a Saks compared to this dump. Anyway, I pick up a $40 engine leveler and made sure my life insurance was up to date prior to using it. - I try the leveler at the scene of the crime. After opening up the really cheesy box, I noticed the handle is missing. I figure its no big deal.... - I greased up all moving parts on the leveler with white lithium because once there was weight applied, the leveler is hard as hell to turn, not to mention tearing my hands up because it’s missing the turning knob. Late note here...my wife says I need stitches...anyway... - Well, the engine still sits in its non-intended position. Several thoughts have raced through my mind, aside from torching the ****er! Maybe I should’ve lowered the front suspension and engine and remove it from the bottom. But I’m not sure how that would come out, especially now, with an engine sticking out the way it is now. - Right now my objective is to get the S52 out and fix/replace the damage. - Then, I’m seriously thinking on getting the TI on a flat bead and getting it up to San Antonio or Austin, which I hear have shops that are swap knowledgeable. - A bit more background...the car is in a shop on a military base, so I can only work on it sporadically. Unfortunately I really get no support from the employees there. They are nice folks but they know nothing about a project like this. One kept telling me I was mistaken and the engine I was trying to install will never fit.... - Anyway, I know it’s a long story but I as you can tell this has been a bit therapeutic. - Ummm, what else....Anyone near South Texas want to give me a hand? - Forgot to mention....the front nose, a/c, cooling is all removed off the front. |
I’m ok now....:rolleyes: Took a break and now I’m back to the grind. :smile: So far the following has been done: -Covered tunnel in heat shield. -Touched up engine bay. -New M3 engine mounts. -Engine and tranny are in. -Replaced P/S hoses w/ M3 pump and hoses. -Intake and TB are in. -ECU is in just sitting in hole until I test fire. -key chips have been swapped; green EWS box behind glove box has been swapped. A/C lines are out. I will be replacing them with M3 parts later on. Still need help with: :confused: -A few cables I’m not sure where they go. Please look at the images and help me decipher what goes where. -All the cables you see in the images are from the donor M3/4/5. Maybe some don’t apply to the E36/5???? -There are 3 cables on the passenger side. -I’m 99% sure one goes to emissions air pump. The other 2 I’m lost :confused: On the Driver’s side, there is a device I believe is the ASC which will be eliminated from the project. I think it matches this http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...00&hg=13&fg=15 |
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5 Attachment(s) few more images |
You guys are fearless with your engine swaps and so forth, and I mean that as a compliment. Keep posting your progress; I really enjoy following your exploits. |
I was nervous jumping into this project. As J!m stated in his manual, be sure you are capable before taking apart a perfectly running car. As far as the ASC, I think I’m going to delete the system, including the ASC t-body. I’m still doing some research on the delete on exactly what is needed to delete the system on an OBD2 (new elbow, what to do about ABS light, etc.). |
Please, please, please.... Look at the following (crappy BB phone :redface:) videos and help me find where these cables go to. Engine turns but it will not start. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIOvloHehWw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31TMG8dCOdQ |
EWS box synced? Dave |
I don't think that red wire should be grounded. It looks to me like it should go to the positive distribution block. |
+1^ I did the same thing on my S50 OBD1 swap, but that (power?) labeled wire, is indeed to the + on the Dist. Block, and the other one is a ground as you had it, or any where you can get a good ground, but that is where mine is wired. |
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You Sir, are awesome! This whole forum is awesome! Thank you very much. :smile: |
Update: Got the power cables connected on the “power block” next to where the original battery was located. Ground that I showed in that earlier video is connected – the one next to the passenger strut tower. Ground on passenger side engine mount is connected. Ground between fuse box is connected. I replaced the battery. The old Miata battery (relocated to rear) was too weak to turn the engine. Replaced with new stronger/larger battery. I insert key; turn; starter engages; my spotter daughter yelled at me “all the stuff on the front is turning (belt, fan, etc.). However, the engine will not start. I let the starter engage for 5-10 seconds at a time. Nothing. She turns healthy since the new battery has been installed, but again, no start or even an attempt to start/stutter. Out of curiosity, I pressed the Schrader valve that sits on the front of the fuel rail to see if I can get some fuel squirted in my eye. Dry. No fuel squirting. |
1 Attachment(s) I’m new to T/S a car so only one way to learn... Let’s give Fuel a try: I do not hear any buzzing or clicking as I insert the key prior to starting. I used to hear these noises and I assume it was the fuel system getting ready to do its job prior to starting. Again, at the moment I do not hear these indications. According to Bentley’s page 160-6, the Fuel Relay is the 1st relay of the top 3 located on the upper part of the fuse box. It should be the one located next to the ground. In the case of my S52, it is purple. I jumped using a wire into sockets number 30 and 87. The S52 emissions fan (now located where the battery was located) kicks in. :confused: I did not hear any fuel related sounds kick in. Am I doing something wrong? Are my relays in the wrong location? :confused: More to follow... |
I seem to remember somebody figuring out that the stock ti fuel relay location listed in the Bentley is wrong. The fuel relay is one of the greenish 306 relays, but it's the other one. Make sense? |
According to Bentley and TIS, from front to aft direction, the relays are: fuel relay DME Oxygen sensor heating (emissions fan???) http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/00/30/72 Today I plan on doing the following: Remove stock 318ti fuel pressure regulator and valve (located under driver's side) and replace with the same set up from my M3 donor. I believe the 318ti is 3.0 BAR and M3 is 3.5 BAR. Also, the fuel filter on the M3 had about 5 miles on before the car got totaled so I will swap the entire assembly. I'm also going to check my fuel hoses. I'm 100% certain they are not mixed but you never know... I also just found my Peake code reader so I'm going to plug it in and see what I get. I sure hope it's not the fuel pump. Everything I've disassembled from the TI (nose, etc.) in inside the car. :eek: T/S continues... |
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Hi Marv, The BAR data is just a guess, but looking at real oem parts listing and comparing my last 7 VIN on both my cars (M3 sedan & 318ti) ... http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...03&hg=16&fg=15 M3 model, Item #11 Supplement info 3,5 BAR http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...03&hg=16&fg=15 318ti model, Item #11 Supplement info 3,0 BAR I've read in several forums Real.oem can be misleading or very generic. Again, I have no clue if this BAR info is accurate. |
Since Bentley at least partially uses the TIS to prepare their books and it's been determined that the Bentley lists the wrong location for the ti fuel pump relay don't you think it's worth the effort to double-check that before you dive into the more complicated/expensive stuff? Just curious. This thread may also be helpful: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...uel+pump+relay It's sad that I have to use the internet to augment my hazy memory, but I was pretty sure I'd been down this road before: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...ighlight=relay Quote:
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