BROKEN REAR BOOTS: HELP
 

So I got a little bit too squirrely and manage to tear both boots. This will probably be my first mechanical fix so with that said, what should I look into:OEM, used or aftermarket? Keeping in mind I'm on a student budget I really wouldn't want to break the bank on just this. I'm guessing if I can find axels off an old e30 i'll just toss those in. xoxo - Love you long time.
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Well, the boots don't look torn, it just looks like the clamps came off. However I'm guessing by the flatbed that the CV joints both broke which caused the boots to stretch and the clamps to pop off. In that case, definitely stick with OEM. Bluebimma picked up aftermarket halfshafts and said they were junk. If you're still running the stock small case diff, use 318ti halfshafts. If you have a medium case diff, use e30 halfshafts. Small case diffs are narrower and require the longer 318ti halfshafts. Medium case diffs are wider and require shorter e30 halfshafts. E30 halfshafts require e30 output flanges and shimming the ABS sensors.

BTW, if you were just replacing the boots(rubber) and not the CV joints and halfshafts(bearings, cages, carriers and axles), then it would be ok to use aftermarket boots and dust caps. I bought aftermarket boots and dust caps from pelicanparts and they were the same quality as OEM.

I'm almost certain it's within the boot that's mashed potatoes so i'll apart the rear axels from the diff and take some extra photos and keep you posted. Plus what bit do I need to take the axels off from the diff? It's like an inverted torque nut

I do have an offer for an e30 diff..not that I have the money to put a new one in anyways but say if i did take it. That would be an investment in terms of the efficiency of my car i.e better gear ratios (2.93, 3.25, 3.73, 4.10) or even an LSD 3.45 if I was lucky enough, and thicker halfshafts to handle higher power output. Si?

Can't remember what size it was, but you could buy the inverse torx set for less than 10 bucks at your local auto parts store and it'll have the correct size in it.

Correct. But as far as ratios go, did they offer a 3.45 on the e30? I'm not sure. My setup is a 3.46 LSD off of an e24, but it's kind of a frankenstein setup. The e24 and e28's have a different style rear mount, so I had to use an e30 rear cover as well as e30 output flanges and halfshafts. The ABS tone rings are larger on the e30 halfshafts, so I had to shim the ABS sensors so they wouldn't rub on the tone rings. It sounds like a lot of work, but it's really easy and straight forward. I just modified some flat washers which get sandwiched between the ABS sensors and the trailing arms.

Turned out to be a 12mm inverted torx socket to take those bastards off my diff and i'm still struggling to take them off from the hub. My buddy loosened the axel nut but it's still not coming off so what else am I missing? Do I have to take off my rotor to twist off the axel or do i need to rent out an axel puller??

The hub nut has a locking plate that fits over it. Did your buddy remove that? Flathead screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers usually takes care of that. The axle is splined where it goes through the hub. Sometimes these splines get corroded and fuse to the hub. You can try spraying it with PB Blaster and waiting a few hours. The best way to remove it would be with an air hammer which will require a compressor. Otherwise, you'll probably end up damaging the threads(not that it matters if the axle is junk anyway). Thread the hub nut onto the the axle. Place a socket over the nut and hit it really hard with a mini sledge hammer. Warning, this will also destroy the threads on the nut. So you'll need new nuts also.

All good! I just tapped it out from the nut side and it slide right off; threads perfectly intact and everything! Next is to take off the driver's side and see how bad they really are! Pics soon to come and also any aftermarket axels i should look towards or should i just look for used oem? Considering that these aren't salvageable, thought they might be..only time will tell.

Stay away from aftermarket halfshafts. OEM is the only way to go. Buy used ones and rebuild them if you have to, just don't buy them from your local auto parts store because they have a "no questions asked" warranty. Bluebimma has had problems with aftermarket halfshafts and slow_ti claims he's busted 4 of them, but for some reason he thinks they're great:rolleyes:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showpost....73&postcount=2

Hahah. Its either 4 or 5. I just think they are great cause of the no questions asked warranty. And they are shiny ;). I can also do a axle swap in about 20 min lol. But I plan on going back to oem, even though I've broken those before too haha. Or the drive shaft shop axles that can apparently hold up to.. Well.. a lot of ponies.