1997 318i Turbo Project
 

This would be alot more helpful with images. Maybe I will be allowed to post them soon.

My Brother (Master mechanic, first beemer turbo project) modified a 97 318i with a turbo. The kit was purchased from a seller on eBay has the name Fantasy Motor Sport on it. The physical installation is 90% complete. Only the oil catch can to go.

It starts, it runs and in neutral (park) it revs fine through the whole range. When driving it it "hits the wall" at 30 mph. By hits the wall I mean that it accelerates like you would expect up to that point and then it stops making power, stops accelerating but doesn't die. It does puff some blue smoke when accelerating (didn't do this before).

From what I have reade in these forums I know of a few things that need/desire to be done:
- Replace the MAF sensor with a unit from a 1995 M3
- Remove the butterfly valve in line with the TB (I assume this is the anti- skid cut out)
- Get it tuned!
- Install a turbo timer
- Find out why the boost controller seems to have no effect

Right now the car is in Houston, I am in Uvalde, Texas. The plan is to get it up to speed and then bring to San Antonio.

Questions:
- Is the butterfly valve in line with the TB the skid cutout that should be removed?
- What is the best way to get it tuned? Buy one from someone here? Take to a dyno for a custom job? Or buy a system like the LM-2 and do it myself?
- Is the 1996 M3 MAF the correct one to use? Is this MAF range limitation the reason the engine hits the wall?
- Why is it burning oil now

Its a great looking car, can't wait to share pictures!

Some details (I have a scan of the turbo kit contents to post when I figure out how to load pics):
Car: 1997 318i 194,000miles, engine 38,000 miles, turbo 10 miles
Turbo kit: T3 turbo, 15psi spring installed, 44mm 100-150hp waste gate, 550cc injectors, 2.5" inter-cooler plumbing, OVX #6 L4 turbo manifold, original MAF. original o2

Computer codes:
- P0203 We were getting a #3 injector cylinder #3 before mod. Still do. If you unplug the injector the engines begins to run very rough. Suspect an open or shorted wire. Not sure why it still works or what limitations this puts on how the engine runs.
- P1423 Secondary air injection.
- P0505 Idle control system. This one seems to set if the expected idle is +200 or -100 rpm from expected.

Okay, there it is. I am sure that as soon as this is read I will realize how much detail I left out. If you are interestred I can PM pictures.

I read this forum for a couple weeks before joining the site. The knowledge and courtesy here are a statement to you all. Thanks in advance for your input.

Bob

If you do not have a tune the injectors are most likely the issue. 550cc are not stock. Stock injectors should be 19# injectors which I don't know what "cc" that is.

You can not change injectors or MAF without the code changed on the DME or you will have a major rich situation. Do not run the car like this or all that gas will wash the oil off the cylinder walls and scuff a piston.

Run the stock injectors with the RRFPR and you will be ok but 15psi will be too much boost for the RRFPR to flow so tune down the waste gate for 10psi or less.

Best of luck. Tunes for the turbo 318 are coded by Barrie at Midnight Tuning. He is BMWCONNECT on this board

wow 600 for the kit pretty cheap but question is if its reliable

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oh never mind doesnt include the manifold

550CC are 52# injectors. Is the 1995 M3 MAF the right one? I will be opening contacting Barrie about a tune... Thanks.

Photos are on 'My Gallery' now.

If you have a stock tune on your DME that car should run horrible with those large injectors and MAF and that is the issue. The 1995 M3 and 328i MAF sensors have the same wiring plugs so you don't have to hack up wiring plus the M3 MAF is 3" instead of the stock 2.5" which helps with pegging the MAF under high boost situations. The boost controller most likely has no effect since you are "pig fat" on your tune and the turbo can't even spool. A turbo timer is nothing more then a box that keeps the car running at idle when you remove the ignition key, this allows the turbo to cool and prevents "coke'ing" of your oil in the turbo on a hot shutdown. I don't run a turbo timer and if I run hard then I let it idle for 30-45 seconds to cool the turbo.

Get a tune flashed on your DME and that thing with run 100% better. I don't even see how that car can run with the large injectors and bigger MAF with no modified code. Also those injectors are very large at 52# for a car not running big boost. I run 60# injectors which are good for 25+ psi of boost.

I would suggest a COP conversion with the way the WG is routed....And because the stock wires are routed poorly, especially with the added heat of a turbo.