M3 X-brace
 

hey everyone

i recently installed the x-brace on my car and it took the better part of two days to install it. in my opinion those nutserts are a complete joke and waste of time. what i found to be the best solution was to tap the holes with a 7/16" tap (found at any hardware store) and i used 7/16"x1" stainless hex bolts and washers for attachment.

this overall method, from tapping to installing took about 20 minutes. i'll post an update in a week or so letting you know if the bolts held :-)

happy thanksgiving to all

installed mine, used the nutsert, which aren't too difficult to install.

X-brace
 

glad to hear it, just givin my humble opinion and suggestions on the topic.


and as for the nutserts, having a thread lodged in place doesn't quite seem as stable as a true threaded hole.

im hoping to be ordering one of those xbraces as welll...ive always heard the nutserts were horrible and a PITA to get it. panzer, i think you are the first ive heard say it wasnt that bad..

either way, thanks for the info guys, it gives me something to think about

how many threads are actually in the holes in the subframe? doesn't look very thick to me. i hope it doesn't drop out on you! :eek:

The nutserts work, but it's tricky. I got 3 out of 4 in by myself, the last one my brother helped me.

is it the "crushing" of the nutserts that's difficult or what? did you use the instructions on understeer?

I used their instructions. The hard part is holding the nutsert still, while you crank the bolt inserted in the nutsert. The nutsert has to stay seated, while you crank the **** out of the bolt. So you are apply an immense force in one direction, while turning the bolt in the other.

I got 3 of the 4, then crossthreaded the tool...then had to get the 4th in the next day...still not too bad.

bringing it back from the dead, i am installing my x brace soon...and not sure if i want to deal with the nutserts...

has your tapped cross member worked out so far?

I think the better option would be for the x-brace to "float" using the nutserts.

If you get into an accident or otherwise rip it out, you won't damage the subframe in the process. Nor do you flex that crossmember at all -- those things are under a HIGH amount of tension.

The nutserts are cake to install if you follow the directions at understeer.com. Seriously, it took maybe 3 minutes apiece.

X Brace Update
 

so far so good. the threads are holding perfectly and the car handles like a dream. the x-brace def brought a noticeable change in handling. the front end loves to squat and grip now, leaving lots of fun to be had with those rear wheels.

nothing has turned loose, and i've driven about 1100 miles on the brace thus far. great install without those sleeves.

It can be a pain in the ass to install those suckers, but dont bother with one of those L shaped allen keys, use a 5mm (whatever size they were) 3/8 socket--->way easier to hold still when cranking in the nutsert

I'll add to the old thread...

The best way to hold the nutsert still (per Google search) is to add grooves into the flat washer that faces against the nutsert/cross brace. Take a thick flat washer and add grooves with a hacksaw at the 12/6 o'clock and 3/9 o'clock positions on the flat washer. (only cut about halfway into the washer.)
Make sure this is facing the nutsert when you install the "install bolt" with nut and second flat washer.

The flat washer and nutsert start to spin when you begin tightening down on the nut. The flat grooves on the washer will grab the nutsert and crossbrace and lock those parts down and you can continue to turn the nut to crush down on the inside of the nutsert. ( I tried a lock washer first ....it held the nutsert but the single "barb" on the lockwasher compressed and chewed up the nutsert.... you need an even surface to press down on the nutsert to hold it...thus the 12/6 and 3/9o'clock washer grooves.