Another Swapped Ti
 

Hi all - The Ti is no longer M44 powered. A simple M50/52 swap and everything is much better.

MAJOR UPDATE POST #44


First Motor
Motor: Fully rebuilt down to block M50/52 - Basically 2.8 OBD1 M50 built by BlueBimma

E39 2.8 Block
M50 Manifold
M50 Head
3.5" MAF
New Bearings
Mahle Rings
Polished Cams
Beisan Vanos
Pulley Kit
OBD-I
E46 M3 mounts
KN/Spectre Box+Intake
Bimmerworld 3.5" Silicone boot
Pink Tops
ARP Hardware
Castrol Edge 5W-40
Bimmerforums Tune for 413 Silver Label DME - EWS Delete, 2nd Airpump delete, 7100RPM, No check engine light and and CEL/Stomp test fully works. No lights on dash!
Ebay SS Longtubes -> Y pipe -> Magnaflow muffler -> MeganRacing dual 3" tips muffler. Semi quiet under 3K. Loud at WOT. Moderate amount of rasp.


Second motor as of Q4 2017
130Kish S52 donor to be converted to OBD1
Teardown excluding rotating assembly
Every gasket/seal etc replaced
3.5' MAF
IWIS Race Chains
INA Tensioners
Febi Guides
M50 Intake
Bimmerworld 3.5" Silicone boot
KN shield to Vibrant 3.5" intake
New Cam/Crank OE sensors
Reused 2.8 M50 Vanos
Pink Tops
Stock hardware, no ARP this time :frown:
LM 10W-40 Mos2
Exhaust reused from 2.8M50



Cooling
Turner Motorsport 6cyl Aluminum radiator
Derale electric fan kit with probe
Spal 12" low pro pull
Mishimoto Tank
GEBA Pump
Metal thermo housing (upgrade the E39 has bleeder valve but must cut hose)
Pentosin Blue


Steering - Added Q2 2018
Rebuilt E36 steering rack from RackDoctor
AAE Reman LUK/ZF pump
Rein Lines
Rein Reservoir
Liqui Moly DEXIII fluid

Suspension Front
Bilstein's from E36 328i
H&R Z3 2.8 Sport springs
E90 Mounts (Will be going back to E36)
UUC 27MM Swaybar
Vaico control arms
Rein swaybar links
Febi E36 M3 control arm bushings
E34 steering coupler (Changed back to stock rubber. Too harsh for street)

Suspension Rear
Koni SRT shocks
H&R Z3 2.8 Sport springs (Changed to stock Z3M Roadster) Too low IMO
E46 M3 mounts with AKG reinforcement plates
Ireland Engineering Subframe bushings
Ireland Engineering RTAB
Condor Springpads
Stock swaybar

Brakes - Front
Stoptech Sport Pads
ECS Tuning SS lines
New Calipers for vented from BimmerBum!
Meyle blanks

Brakes - Rear
Stoptech Sport Pads
ECS SS lines
Rebuilt calipers from BimmerBum!
Zimmerman blanks

Driveline
UUC Black Trans mounts
Stock Getrag from BlueBimma's previous swap. Roughly 310K, fluid changed Pennzoil Synchromesh every ~10K
4.10 Medium Case LSD
Short Shift Kit from Mcoupe bits
Power Flex diff bushing
E36 M3 Flywheel and clutch
SS line
M3 Slave
325 Driveshaft
Q3 2018 will be new GKN 6cyl axles and Febi rear wheel bearings

Wheel/Tire
Square 17x7.5 OEM Contour on Sumitomo HTRZ3 225/45/17
Stock sports on Blizzak WS 60 225/50/16

Lighting
Euro Bosch Housings with 6K LED city lights
DDM Tuning Plus 5K HID kit
Stock fogs with Nokya 3500K halogen
Depo Smoked corners
Ebay clear sides
Phillips LED plate bulbs (Lasted longer than any other options)

Interior
Mainly stock M-Tech that I have tried to take care of.
LED interior bulbs
6cyl cluster - OBD1 with gauge rings
ZHP shift knob
Fire extinguisher because I no longer trust it

Entertainment
Pioneer X3500ui HU
Stock front tweeters and door 2.5"
Pioneer 5.25" in kickpanel
Kicker 6X8" in stock rear location. Covered in black speaker fabric
Alpine SWE1042 (Oldschool 2000s) Subwoofer powered by Kicker CX300 (Very efficient)

Need to finish a few things, get a new hood and have front bumper and nose panel painted. Bodywork will be done this spring and it will no longer be a DD!

Bluebimma did this

Way to loud exhaust
This was single 2.5" after y pipe to MeganRacing resonator to Megan Racing muffler. Basically straight piped. Lots of rasp and annoying imo at WOT. Not considerate for neighbors/am commute. Did pop and ruble nicely or downshift and deceleration.

Great swap! How is the vibration level with the E36 M3 motor mounts and poly transmission mounts? I have stock E36 M3 motor mounts and E46 M3 transmission mounts; had to remove the red poly trans mounts because it buzzed like hell in my S52-swapped car. I am interested in hearing about the difference between E36 and E46 motor mounts.

With stock E46M3 mounts the vibration is not bad at all. I had them on the M44 as well. I wouldn't even say there is much of a difference if any. The trans mounts being UUC black are the lowest tier on their solid mounts. They are ok for DD but around 3K there can be noticeable vibration. I would still run them though personally. If I had the means to easy replace the stock rubber bushings as soon as they got soft I would just stay stock rubber all around. Just because it's still a daily.

Great write up! I have been thinking of doing this or just swapping my auto tranny with a 5 speed. How much did the engine swap cost ya?

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Thanks. BlueBimma rebuilt the motor from block up. It's basically a 2.8 M50. Bluebimma did most of the swap and it came with the trans and driveshaft. Overall I have about 4-5 in the swap with all the mods listed. Doing a swap can be much cheaper if you're not gonna tear the motor all the way down. I would go for the 5speed swap first. If your driving style is more in town then try tossing in a 410lsd. I don't miss the M44 but I did have to change my driving style. Where I would wind the M44 out to redine I find myself shifting around 4 in the current setup.

Looks great. Hey what's your guys contact info?

Are you asking for the guy that built the motors contact info? Bluebimma on here but more active on BFC


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I guess I can provide an update on it. It's my daily currently and while not the most comfortable or convenient still makes me smile. So far it's eaten a water pump (shocker) and I was able to source a Geba locally. PS lines started to leak so reservoir and lines were replaced by a local motorsport shop. Work and a project E30 give me almost no time to focus on this thus not much progress to report. Oil filter housing gasket and vanos line and VC gasket also have been replaced. It was leaking quite a bit from the vanos line that it ended up killing a starter. The starter was very gritty with oil residue all over internals. As of now everything mechanically has been taken care of and I enjoy it everyday.

Motor and does he do the swap as well?

Doubtful but send him a pm on BFC where he is more active: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/m...4168-Bluebimma

Great Swap !

So long as it's a decent weekend I plan to do the rear suspension. Doing rear swaybar links and bushings as well.
-Koni SRT shocks
-HR Z3 2.8 Sport (Not sure why they are red but part# is sport)
-URO pads 7.5MM. Planning on grabbing Condor Speed shop's urethane stackable pads. I have a feeling it might be too low.
-FEBI E46 M3 Mounts
-Lemforder links
-OEM rubber bushings
http://i.imgur.com/OtxCaqvh.jpg

Going to try new exhaust setup hopefully by mid May. SS longtubes -> ypipe -> 2.5" flex pipe -> Magnaflow straight through muffler -> MeganRacing muffler 3" tips The magnaflow should be a little louder while not being as harsh as it was with just a very small resonator. If not then a new combo. I like playing with exhaust setups.
http://i.imgur.com/m3AjI3wh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GelFBxlh.jpg

Before exhaust work, brakes will get least all purchased and lined up to do. Will be going vented stock, blank rotors all around, Pentosin DOT4, ECS SS lines, rebuilt calipers using Stoptech Street pads. Will be adequate for street driving. Thanks to Bimmerbum on the brakes.

After mechanical then front end body work. Fun never ends

Looks good but 4.10:1 on the street is screaming for a six speed... or less rear gear. I wouldn't go beyond 3.91:1 myself.

Get those brakes sorted!!!

While I'd like to go 6spd budget doesn't allow for it currently. 4.10 is nice around town but at 65mph I'm at 4K. So I just drive slow right lane. I hope to be mostly done by end of May with it, save for minor bodywork. Brakes will be done in coming weeks. Rear suspension done this weekend. Sits to low for my personal pref and the stress on halfshafts. (HR Sport Z3 6cyl) I have one more spacer to add on spring pad but won't do enough. Will be testing out some new springs locally. Smoked rears added as well. http://i.imgur.com/hMNS3VXh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/e3RlnD3h.jpg

Damn. Those springs are completely compressed! Only the small coils doing anything now.

Do they bang on bumps being that tight?

It's by design per HR. The Z3 forums have a few threads with people shocked, thinking they are broke etc. supposedly it's so the spring don't fall out. Either way I'd like to be higher in rear. Going to try Bav Auto springs next. Maybe go factory sport 6cyl Z3? They're easy enough to swap might as well mess around. With a medium diff and 4cyl stock haldshaft I don't wanna go to low though. Looking for e30 325i ones currently


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The big 'nipple' keeps the springs in... Unless you're doing Dukes of Hazard maneuvers I think they'll stay in.

I'm running stock M Roadster in the rear of mine. I'm happy with ride, height and they haven't fallen out either! I did go with the heavier M Coupe rear sway due to the heavier body on the ti compared to the roadster.

The pads even come with an adapter to lengthen the nipple. I'm going to assume it was for extreme situations but that's there design. I'll mess around with a few setups to find the right height. It does feel better then the 4cyl sports.

Ya, I was surprised by that too, if you look at my old build thread I compared some of the springs and even the 4cyl z3 springs did that. Currently I am running the z3m H&R sport springs and they also do the same tthing.



Don't do the Bav Auto springs! They are also very soft! Again check out my old build thread I have a few spring comparisons and I also used the Bav Auto springs. I have also been in a dilemma since I am using the full H&R z3m sport spring setup and I ran into the same thing as you. I actually really like how it sits, looks wise, but I need some more toe in, and stiffer springs and then adjust my Koni shocks to match.

The only spring that comes to mind that I might be willing to try is the IE "stage 3" rear springs, see if they sell those separately. I think in three weekends time I will have time to drive down and compare height with the OEM Z3M spring I have, if it looks okay height wise and IE is willing to sell me only the rear springs I might give it a shot. Best of course is to save up for a real coilover set.... or the Groundcontrol coilover conversion.

BTW how come you don't use the e30 halfshafts? I didn't even know stock ti halfshafts worked with the med size e30 diff.... and that 4.1 seems too much for me!! I even mentally complain about my 3.46 sometimes.



Along with my H&R z3m sport springs I also run the z3m front sway bar with adjustable end links and z3m rear sway bar, seems like the springs are too soft! But as you mentioned the oem z3m coupe (s54) springs I have for the rear definitely seem more firm then the H&R springs, my only complaint is purely based on ride height and the fender gap.

Anassa - Noted on the Bavauto. Looking for different otpions now, maybe will try stock Z3M. Let me know what IE says and cost? I'd be interested in a rear set as well. As for rear halfshaft just have not gotten around to getting some and putting on. The 4cyl ones barely fit but they do. They have to be walked on somewhat. 15K miles on MI roads and still fine. You have any photos of the z3m springs on yours? Would you want to sell or does it have too much rake?

Here is H&R z3m vs stock z3m:
http://318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42609&page=2
Post 27/28 to see how it sits

And comparison between 1.9 z3, bavauto, stock ti:
http://318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34892&page=5
Post 66

I will keep you up to date on IE, but again that will be a few weeks, M-F is impossible and my next two weekends are full. But I will definitely keep you up to date.

Anassa - Wow those stock Z3M springs are rather higher. Wasn't expecting it to be so tall. Let me know what IE says. Are you going for an E30 spring or Z3? I'll be putting the final spring pad in this weekend.

Had some light exhaust work done. Currently SS longtubes, y pipe, 2.5" Magnaflow to MegaRacing muffler w/dual 3" tips. It's ok. I'd like to find either Mcoupe muffler or a Supersprint from other model and make work. It's quiet under 3K for most part, pops on a downshift but WOT above 3500 is stupid loud still. Sealed the paint this weekend with Griotts One Step Sealant. Very easy to use product, not a harsh polish but that is to be expected with an AIO product. Painted new nose panel, bumper, and brakes as well in garage. Painting was easy. Bought online color match paint. I made some goofs as this is the largest project I've done so far. Needs wetsanded and buffed since there is some orange peel. Thankfully with flat white it's not that noticeable. I would recommend getting 2K clear so it will set faster, apply overall better. But this was $7 vs $20 per can and I'm nearing the budget set aside for the car. Needs to touch up some body spots and small interior items. Buy E30 halfshafts, fix tune/misfire issue and should be 95% done. http://i.imgur.com/fXfvssHh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jloEThXh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rU3aUI5h.jpg http://i.imgur.com/zrKy2ich.jpg http://i.imgur.com/veVszfKh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/La0uVzSh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/La0uVzS.jpg http://i.imgur.com/IzCxgno.jpg http://i.imgur.com/GFUgmAg.jpg http://i.imgur.com/GSoOeXy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/mwGUB1c.jpg

Happy 4th everyone. Got the front brakes done. SS lines, stock vented, stoptech sport pads.
http://i.imgur.com/KjqVq9i.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FAGYanH.jpg

Going is good. Stopping is better!

Stopping is good. Setup is similar to before but with all new hardware I have somewhat peace of mind. The car won't be tracked and even rarely pushed on the street so a simple stock setup seemed to be most effective. Stoptech pads are dusty but effective one broken in.

Got the new finder liners, brake ducts bumper and nose panel on. Bumper and nose panel are both Ebay so fitment is not that great. I can work it to close some of the gaps. Paint appears to match in most lighting which is great for the $20 per can. Roughly little more then a local shop would charge to can some matched paint. The fogs need some hardware and I need to solder in a new wiring then those will be in. Then I needs to tidy up the engine bay visually. Move the reservoir, sleeve some wiring. It's getting there.
http://i.imgur.com/dqd038x.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JqLbd7g.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Z4SSsoC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FsEfneI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QaekXqN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GmfxYUO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/M9S1m0f.jpg

Looks great man! How's it handling the summers days? Are you happy as I would be with that swap?! Seriously does it drive better with the swap because honestly I love the way my M Sport handles and the gas mileage keeps me smiling!

Has been good this summer. Progress is slower then I'd like with an E30 project and life. Car doesn't like sitting in traffic and will misfire but I believe intake is getting heat soaked. It is hard to define better swapped. You can feel the weight of the 6 further out. Not much can do
about that. I'm already running 6cyl HR springs. It's a very easy car to drive around town. Do not need to wind out the motor like the 4. This is also due to 410 diff. I can say the easiest 318Ti I've driven has been a 6.0 LS swapped one. So much torque everything is effortless.

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hey ZEK- I just put your shock set up in last night lolol.... they actually ride quite nice!
You should fly up soon before summer is over...
josh

Glad you got them on. BlueBimma, myself and few others will be going up to http://northernworthersee.com/

What did you do about EWS? I just swapped an m50 vanos into my 318ti and everything is together but for some reason it won't crank over all the way. I checked fuse 18, relays,grounds, hard wire did the fuel pump, red label 413 dme, snipped the green wire in pin 7, changed cool packs, bought a second red label dme. I'm so lost. Any help would be awesome. Also I'm new to the forum so if this isn't an appropriate comment on your thread please let me know. I've searched this forum and I've done pretty much everything everyone suggest to get the car started.

My chassis is a 1997 318ti obd2 and the engine is a 1993 m50 vanos obd1. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

All good, i'll try to help out. Does the tune you are using have EWS delete? Does the car turn over at all?

IT turns cranks but doesn't turn over. I have non Ews dme so the dme has no ews. I cut the little green wire on pin 7.

Ah, red label. Sounds like something isn't wired correctly. Don't mess with fuel pump wiring. I assume it worked fine previously, highly unlikely that is culprit. I believe there is a black shielded wire that you also need to connect by the fuse box. Use this swap thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...er-Swap-Thread

Also check photo of bay on page 2 for some wiring.

Not the x20 plug but the x6031 plug the thread is talking about. I have nothing to plug into it. The engine harness and red label dme is all my swap came with and there's no plug to o into it. when I removed the previous motor (m44) I had a small x6031 connector on it.

What are you missing from this photo?

Any new info on your swap diagnosis?

It still doesn't turn over. I don't have a #14 pin on the x6031. So the thread to suggested to follow didn't work. I only have 12 in the x6031. Also the main relay is getting power. Maybe the ecu or injectors aren't getting power. Idk. I'm lost. I'm getting spark and the grounds/positives are all good. All my relays and fuses are good. Ews wire cut. Red label non ews dme. STill not starting.