Z3 M44 Engine removal HELP
 

My story: I bought a Z3 with a blown m44 and have a replacement M44 from a 318ti. I have removed all the hoses, radiator/fan, belts, power steering hoses and reservoir.

Wondering if anyone knows of a post or webpage on how remove the m44?

I am particularly interested in whether to remove the AC pump from the engine and try and leave the system in the car or not? As well as weather to cut the exhaust system or try and unbolt the header? Not a lot of room so not sure how folks unbolt it?

Thanks for the help! I have looked on bimmerforum and the threads here but with no luck.

Unbolt the header, release the pressure in the a/c system, and disconnect those lines. If youre taking the engine out by itself, not with the transmission, unbolt the engine from the tranny, the engine mounts from the chassis, gas lines, electric lines, coolant lines to the cabin, secure the hoist to the back and front of the head using the engine hoist secure points.

if it were me, I would just unbolt the midpipe and leave the headers right on the M44 (unless your new motor did not come with them) ... its much easier to get the midpipe off than it is to get the headers off depending how corroded the bolts are.

in regards to disconnecting the other stuff... just go in a logical fashion around the motor to find what needs to be disconnected...
- obviously the engine harness wiring and DME
- coolant lines
- rear most heater hoses (attached from engine to firewall)
- there is a 'ground strap' located on the passenger side motor mount bracket than attaches to the frame rail which is easy to overlook
- i dunno if its the same for your Z3 but underneath the Ti, right below the drivers seat is a metal cover that covers the fuel lines/fuel pressure regulator/fuel filter... remove that and disconnect any vacuum hoses and FPR connector plug.. and make sure you plug the disconnected gas lines, or else you'll turn your garage into a big bomb
- disconnect midpipe o2 sensors at the connecter, since they go with the motor
- tranny switch plug on left side of bellhousing
- etc etc

Just go slow when pulling the motor, always checking for things you may have forgotten/not have seen the first time, just so nothing gets ripped off or anything like that.

the rear engine hoist mount is tricky to locate in that tight space... it was for me and my mechanic anyways - but poke around with a good light and you'll find it...

as far as A/C goes, I would just do what blue said.. release the pressure and unbolt the lines that run to the compressor, don't worry about undoing any other lines... its probably a good time to get it topped up and recharged anyways.
Be careful though, that freon is toxic stuff... and its actually illegal to evacuate that stuff into the air, so Id suggest buying a evacuation bottle and doing it properly..

unless you want to attempt to keep the compressor lines connected and remove the engine without the compressor.. im sure that would be possible as well.

little useless tidbit : it takes 40 years for that evacuated A/C gas to reach the ozone layer!

Thanks Philly, I was able to unbolt at the mid pipe no problem. Good call on the grounding strap, I missed that too. Managed to find the aft lifting point, too. As far as the AC I ended up pulling off the pump and leaving the whole system intact and in the car. It was blowing ice cold before so hopefully I can just reconnect the pump when I drop the new motor in.

Sill undecided as to weather I am going to pull the Transmission out with the engine or not. I am doing all this in the street where there is no even ground for jack stands so I think I am going to just pull the engine out alone. Any thoughts?

Thanks again for all the free advice.
M

free? who said free... every bullet in my last post was worth $10... I take paypal :tongue: :lol:

some of those tranny bolts are very TRICKY to locate and in some ridiculous spots, its hard enough even with the car above your head... let alone laying on your back looking up.

I suggest leaving it attached, and pulling it as a unit and then unbolting it after it is all out... it will make it easier to attach to the new motor and to get it torqued up properly.

If your wondering what im talking about, crawl under your car (if you can do it safely) and feel around to the top of the bellhousing, then contemplate how your going to get your weapon of choice in there, and get enough torque on the bolt to break them free... not alot of room there!

Keep us posted dude!

Its not too difficult to pull just the engine, but like philly said, its a bit easier when reassembling. Ive done about 3-4 e36 swaps by pulling just the engine alone. Its not too difficult if you know where the bolts are and how to get to them.

Good luck with the project.

Thanks - bluebimma. I think the z3 must have better access or something since I can get to the top bolts via the engine bay. Hopefully I can get the engine out without bending anything. With any luck I will have the engine out by mid week and ready to install the replacement by the weekend.

Do you guys know if I need to support the Transmission when I unbolt the engine from it or will it just stay in place after I pull the engine?

Then to decide if I rebuild and have a spare engine on hand or sell it off to help off set expenses.

you're going to want to support it with a jackstand or something.

Definately support the transmission, you dont want to put too much strain on the tranny mounts nor the driveshaft or its bushings.

There is also the tranny input shaft. w/o support, the tranny is going to lean down on it.

I just bought a engine hoist last night so now all I need are a set of torx and a really long extension.

M

Engine is out and new one is in. I ran into a little trouble with some parts from the 318ti which did not match the z3 but nothing a little swapping around could not fix. Different header, intake manifold air intake and wiring harness.

The problem I have now is that the transmission and the engine are sitting about an 3/4 of an inch apart. I can get a bolt started at the bottom but not at the top. I don't want to bend the input shaft of the transmission.

Any advice to get them closer. Should I take off the transmission and try and slide it forward? The engine is bolted in place and all connected including, fuel lines, radiator, intake wiring harness all except starter motor.

Thanks,
M

Is this a manual tranny car?

Yup!

Sounds like you need to align the clutch... since you have everything else bolted down it may be difficult.

At this point I think I would unbolt the tranny mounts and wiggle the tranny, when you get it you will know it, it will slide right into place.