Dash lights on strike Was testing out my stereo installation when I found out the hard way that the left rear - speaker wire on the wiring harness I used was incorrectly plugged into the illumination socket. I heard a faint pop when I turned on the headlights and the dash lights went out. Checked the fuse (F37), but it was intact. Is there a fusible link somewhere that I should look for, or is there something else? |
nope, you blew the headlight switch. Actually you blew the dimmer part of the switch. It just happened to me a couple months ago. I bet none of the lights on your dimmer circuit illuminate(window switches, HVAC panel, gauges, doorlock switch and cigarette lighter) but the headlights, parking lights turnsignals and tailights still work right? Fortunately I have a spare. I had two spares as it would appear this is a common problem for our cars since the junkyard sent me 2 bad ones in a row and a completely different one as well. I fixed my original as well as the two bad ones that the junkyard sent me and I just sold one of the spares 3 days ago to member "cg318ti" for 20 bucks. LMK if you need a switch and we could work something out. |
Yep, it's happening just as you say, headlights and all are all functional, just the dash and controls lights that are out. I was trying to pull the dash out because I figured the switch might be involved because that is the general direction that the pop sound came from but that dash just refuses to come out and I may have to resort to Astrolite if it's going to be stubborn like that. But it looks like I will need that switch, so pm me with the details. Thanks! |
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Oh if you're having trouble getting the old switch out, just unscrew the knob from the switch, pry the little faceplate off of the dash with a screwdriver. Then you could either go from under the dash by removing the knee panel and support but it's really tight and you'll have to unclip the switch which could be very difficult. Otherwise, the easier method would be to remove the trim surrounding the cluster and then slide the cluster out. It's held in with torx screws, one behind the headlight switch faceplate, one behind the foglight switch faceplate and a couple more on the inner topside of the cluster trim. Once you get that panel off, you'll have easy access to the headlight switch to disconnect the plug and unclip it from the trim panel. Hope that helps. Jesse |
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how about a write up on how to fix the switch? :biggrin: |
Now thats asking for too much:tongue: J/K, he's sending me his old switch and I'll be happy to do a writeup once I get it. It's kind of an involved procedure, like most of the delicate projects that I seem to fancy, but I'll definitely put together a DIY to help everyone save money. The dealer wants 40 bucks for a new switch and has to order them from Germany. The junkyard charged me 30 bucks and sent me two broken ones and a third that wasn't even for our cars. All three of the switches were broke in exactly the same spot and I'm certain that with my fix, it'll never blow again. The problem is that the resistor on the dimmer switch is too weak and blows before the fuse does, thus costing more money to replace a switch rather than replacing a fuse. It appears to be a design flaw, but like many things, can be made to work better. |
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BTW, the fuse you are thinking about is there to protect the wiring, not the consumers that are connected to it, such as the rheostat. |
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can your foglight switch blowout too? |
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well how the hell does that happen, does it mean that its a blown switch if the symbol doesnt come up on the dash when i try to turn them on |
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