OBD Code 1243 - Dead Secondary air pump
 

Ti'ers

I started my questions on this repair in a different thread and decided to consolidate my questions and document the fix in case someone else has the same issue. Easy fix.

I should mention there are multiple conditions that could trigger a P1243, This simply addresses one of the causes and my action to repair it. Good luck! :cool:

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I'll pull the air pump this weekend, but can someone describe which rivets fail here? I'm asking to get an advance idea of what the probable fix is. A pic would be great. Thanks!

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Cleared codes last week, drove around, only P1423 reemerged. Arrgghh, I was going to swap diffs today. :anger: o well. :rolleyes2

So, I'll check the rigid hose and air pump. Are folks referring to the rivets in the top of the pump?
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psn5rxhmd2.jpg

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OK, I removed my strut brace, the MAF and the ASC throttle plate assembly to get to the air pump. I removed the rigid emissions tube/hose. The hard hose is intact, no cracks and seems to seal tight. Clips on both end are intact. There was a little moisture in the pipe. Like a teaspoon amount or less.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psuhzkijpa.jpg

I removed the air pump by removing the two 13mm nuts, unclipping a rubber carrier for another emissions valve and unclipped the electrical connector at the bottom of the pump. Visual inspection: all rivets look fine, no gaps in the seams between top bottom and middle pieces that the rivets secure. The plastic clips on the pump are all also intact.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psv5wu4sfz.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psu12w3b3n.jpg

I checked for 12v at the red/yellow wire coming into the pump with ignition on. No voltage, but looked in ETK and Bentley and there is a relay from the air pump. I'm not sure how to test the inbound power to the pump. :confused2
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psd1e9stdw.jpg

I applied 12V/grn directly to the air pump. Nothing. May seem obvious, but do these pump motors generally fail? I'll cross check PN# and head out to the yards to see if I can locate an operating one after lunch as a new one is $350. $24.99 at Pick n Pull if you can locate one. Look for a late model 1996+ I suspect the production date should past June, but good to confirm.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psaj2w8lqm.jpg

It's interesting that this PN# does not show up in REALOem. Am I reading it correctly? 1172 1 432 593

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OK, so no pump was available in the local yards on Saturday, but I did find one in a yard about 50 miles away in a 1997 318i sedan Sunday morning. I lucked out, as someone had pulled it, saw the failed rivets and kindly left it intact on the drivers floor. :yes:

I tested the pump I found at the pick n pull in the parking lot. It tested fine. :biggrin: The one I found had failed rivets, but it did not impact the testing or operation of its motor. The original one I pulled out of my car failed a power test totally.

So, the motor drives a centrifugal fan. (I didn't know what was under the cap) I went to Ace Hardware and picked up some black Allen bolts and silver nuts with a friction washer. The nylon nuts turned out to be too big. Looked odder. I wish I found some black ones, but the nuts are on the bottom anyway and aren't visible.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psvkstw9at.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psfj1awodd.jpg

I hand tightened the nuts/bolts, plus another 1/8 turn with some red Locktite. The nuts aren't going anywhere. The black allen bolts look almost original. The replacement is in the foreground, with the failed pump in the background.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...pssjuzafti.jpg

The air pump is suspended in place with three rubber mounts that attach with 10mm nuts. When you are reassembling the carriers, you can use a 17mm open end wrench to hold the mounts so you don't end up twisting them when you are tightening the nut. I'll order a few replacement mounts as these were pretty soft after 190k miles.

One tip, mark the position of the pump in the two carriers BEFORE you take them apart. :redface:
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psdy00vtnr.jpg

One you have it all back together, reassemble in reverse order as you took it out.

Shortly upon startup, I heard the fan kick in. I guess it has been out for awhile, cause it was a totally new sound. I reset the codes and will drive around, until it either fails again or my reader says I'm good to go retest for SMOG.

I'll take apart the original motor to see why it failed. If I can fix it, I'll keep it as a spare. I never really paid much attention to this pump in the past, I just knew it existed. I know the one on my 540it is larger and still is spinning along.

I hope this helps someone else.

Cheers! :cool:

Q. Did you find a replacement that worked or....
 

"OK, so no pump was available in the local yards, on Saturday, but I did find one in a yard about 50 miles away in a 1997 318i sedan Sunday morning. I lucked out, as someone had pulled it, saw the failed rivets and kindly left it intact on the drivers floor.

I applied 12V/grn to the pump motor and it fired right up.

So, the motor drives a centrifugal fan. (I didn't know what was under the cap) I went to Ace Hardware and picked up some black Allen bolts and silver nuts with a friction washer. The nylon nuts turned out to be too big. Looked odder. I wish I found some black ones, but the nuts are on the bottom anyway and aren't visible. "

Somewhere I lost the tread of this writeup. You said that no pump available at the local Pick a Part and the one 50 miles away had "failed riviets". So then you say you applied 12V/grn and it worked. Would that be the original one or another?

THanks
Roger

Hi Roger. Ah, I'll clarify when I get home. I tested the pump I found at the pick n pull in the parking lot. It tested fine. The found one had failed rivets, but it did not impact the testing or operation of its motor. The original one I pulled out of my car failed a power test totally.


Sent from my mobile device

If you want to delete the SAP and get no CEL error (Even passes Emission testing) build and install the SAP simulator in the knowledge base. The SAP simulator emulates the secondary air pump test completed by the DME then when the DME shuts off the SAP the emulator turns off which is a pass through mode.

SAP on the emulator removes actual O2 voltage and sends a 200mv voltage fooling the DME into thinking the SAP is working correctly.

With the SAP simulator I've not had a sap error in many years

I'm afraid that would not pass visual smog inspection in California. Good idea tho'

Pump on car simulator hidden in cabin behind radio I would bet 99.9% no one would catch it. However doing it right and fixing it original is the best way most of the time. Plus you are not a track or race car so I don't recommend disabling emission parts. BEst of luck, John S

The fix at this point seems to be holding up after 150 miles as there has been no reemergence of the code. This weekend, I'll work the other code a P0455 so I can get on with SMOG certification.

I'm thinking I'll get under the car to inspect all rubber hoses. I will replace some new silicone hoses I put in when I swapped motors. If the hoses are intact, I may have to being it in as I don't know how to test the purge or vent valves. :frown: