I'm a proud new owner of a 96 318ti and I am extremely interested in an M3 swap. Does this manual cover the actual labor? Does this manual work for a large number year models of the M3? Are there any other options as far as engines? Like a 323 or 325?
Thanks

323, 325, 328, and M3 are basicly the same labor. I'm doing my 328Ti swap right now and it's pretty stright foward.

Phamster nailed it.

The labor is the same for any six swap, just the fine details will be different (and not much).

If you decide to do the swap, try to find a 1996-99 M3 for a donor car, as they are all OBD-II and therefore more compatible with one another.

In any OBD-II swap, the dealer is required for the EWS/DME alignment- no way around that (legally)...

Also, if you are in some states (CA and ME I think and maybe others) the engine (if replaced) has to be newer or the same year as the car, older is illegal...

Thanks very much for the tips, I greatly appreciate it.I know I'll be back with more questions later. Once again, thanks

i'm doing an s50 into a 99/obd2, is this covered in your manual as well?

Hello Timpy, and thanks for the interest.

For your swap, I suggest converting to OBD-I in the car, as the engine and ECU you will use are both OBD-I.

This will make the swap easier for you as well. (No dealer needed)

The manual will be a huge help to you, and once you have it, I am available for technical assistance to you, as is every swap manual owner.

PS order before the first of the year, as I have to increase the price as I feared I might...

A quick note an apology to everyone wo has PM'd me in the lst few months.

For some reason, I have not ben getting e-mail notification that I have a new private message as I was getting in the past.

I will speak to Steve about this, but to be sure I get the message, please use jim[dot]leach[at]sulzer[dot]com if you don't hear back in a reasonable time frame from a PM to me.

Thanks, and sorry to those who have been waiting for my replies!!!

To everyone:

As I feared, I am going to raise my price slightly, beginning Saturday, January 5.

So, if you have been waiting, spend all that Christmas gift money you got and send payment by Friday!

The price increase is slight (Going up to $65.00 USD shipped- so still quite cheap) but I wanted to let everyone know the score, and have a chance to order.

I received one inquiry already, and thought I would give everyone a 'last chance' to order at last year's price.

Thanks to everyone who has already ordered, and Happy New Year!

332ti Suspension
 

Really quick question here. My 332Ti is currently on Ti specific H&R Sport springs and Bilsteins Sport shocks. This as you can imagine is not good. The rear end squats quite a bit. Can I get M-coupe suspension all around or just the rear? Will I then need M3 front suspension if being only able to use M-Coupe rear?

Thanks,
Eddie

I recommend the M3 front and M Coupe rear set up.

Use the Bilstein sport shocks/struts; the ti ones are too soft and adding to your rear end dive under acceleration.

I actually use the Euro M3 front springs and M Roadster rear springs with Bilstein sport struts/shocks. Rear sway is from the M Coupe and front is the US M3 part...

Excellent. Thanks.

For the sake of saving money and making things easier on myself, could I just get the full Mcoupe setup though?

Does anyone know a ballpark estimate on the cost of the full swap?

Yes, that should work fine; certainly for the short term.

Spring rates may differ on the M coupe versus the M3 Sedan; check part number on realoem.com to confirm. (different number is a different rate)

No, as it depends on so many factors, including what you consider a "full swap"

Full swap to me is:

• rear subframe complete
• front suspension complete [these include M brakes in both front and rear of course]
• drive shaft
• transmission [plus M3 slave cylinder and clutch]
• full engine assembly with cooling changes etc. to meet the M3 spec. (all detailed in my manual of course)

Some corners can be cut here and there; however in my experience, this adds time, which is not free (unless you are unemployed). Such as the diff, which can be assembled from junkyard parts from several mdels of unknown origin and mileage. False economy when you assemble it and find out it has a bearing whine and has to be pulled apart again don't you think?

Where exactly you get your parts, and their condition has a greater impact on the final cost I find. If you get a complete, rear-ended (or t-boned) M3, this can reduce the cost for M3 drive train parts over individual purchase.

Similarly, for the M roadster (or coupe) rear sub frame if hit in the front and without an engine, the rear sub frame can be much cheaper this way versus buying parts. Be wary of side-hit roadsters as the sub frame can get twisted...

This is NOT a cheap swap. In fact, these days it is much cheaper to buy an E36 M3 and drive it, doing the needed maintanance and nothing more. Gut the interior out, along with sound deadening an have fun with it.

A ti swap IS NOT a "cheap M3"; quite the contrary I'm afraid...