1995 318ti will not start
 

Ok here we go. I bought a 1995 318ti a few weeks ago and I love driving the car....when it starts.
So this all started the same day I bought this car. I drove it around a bit for a test drive then had it towed back to my home. once it got here it would not start. two days later I changed out the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I thought at that point I had solved the problem....I was wrong. It once again would not start after having been run for 45 min to an hour. I thought It was a fuel issue so I replaced the fuel pump....well it started right up afterward and then once again it left me stranded.

So here is the pattern. Car starts, drives wonderfully as long as i don't shut it off. I had it running for 5 hrs straight before. Once it is shut off the car will not start for about 12 hours. It will crank over but it just wont fire.

On the advice of the dealership I replaced the cas and the cps and the O2(mainly because the ecu was throwing the O2 code). Now the car will not start at all.

What has been replaced
Fuel pump relay
Fuel pump
cam angle sensor
crank position sensor.
iacv hoses

I have checked the ECU compartment and it is bone dry, I even swapped out the ecu for a known working one and there was no change. I have scoured the internet looking for answers but the solutions have not worked

I will be checking for spark tomorrow when i get my timing light back from a friend.

I am now at the end of my rope so any advice would be helpful....This might be my first BMW but this isn't my first car.

Sorry to hear about your unpleasant 318ti purchase experience. They are great cars.

Check the following:
1. Check for spark - you mentioned you were going to use a timing light.
2. Check fuel pressure. When it won't start, spray some starting fluid to see if it runs.
3. Check for compression - loan a compression tester from a nearby flaps.
4. Have you scanned for codes?

Good luck

Update
 

Ok so today I checked for spark by doing the starter fluid test, we have spark.

I pulled #1 plug and cranked it over, no smell of fuel at all. Suspecting the regulator I replaced it with a new one....just in case. Still nothing.

I checked for codes using the stomp test since this is OBDI, the only code that came up is for the O2 sensor. I have a replacement but no way to get the car up on ramps or move it till I get it started.

I will rummage through my tools and find my compression tester to see if that is the problem.

The lack in fuel going into the cylinder really makes me think it is a fuel problem but there is nothing in the fuel system that is not brand spankin new.

I also checked my DME relay and it is functioning with .1 ohm when energized and open lead when not, so functioning as normal. I brought my fluke home so i will meter everything and report back with results.

It is funny, i bought this car to be the reliable daily driver, and the ls2 miata I put together in a dirt floor garage has ended up being more reliable.

Oh well, I will not quit.

The O2 sensor trouble code is a red herring on the 95.. EVERYTHING causes it..

There is a fuse that runs the brake lights, that pops occasionally and it will make the car not crank.

Clogged injector screens.
Clogged Fuel filters.
Bad ground.
Engine Wiring harness. Especially the EFI cabling.

Out of guesses.. :)

Dave

Did it run when you sprayed starting fluid? If it did, I would concentrate on getting fuel. 1. Perform a fuel pressure test. You can rent a fuel pressure tester. When you start the car, dme (engine control module) detects engine rpm, turns on the fuel pump relay, closes fuel pump relay contacts, passes 12V to Fuse 18 (15Amp), then fuel pump runs and pressurizes fuel rail, and pulses the fuel injectors. If you don't get fuel pressure at the fuel rail, try putting a jumper on the fuel pump relay contacts at pins 30 and 87. The fuel pump should run even with the ignition off and pressurize the fuel rail. If you see fuel pressure at the rail, try starting the car. If it runs, then you know where to troubleshoot the problem. Remove the fuel pump relay jumper. Do not forget to remove the jumper or the fuel pump will keep on running.

Replace unloader relay or swap it with a known good relay like high beams. If car starts now and high beams start working intermittent then you have found the issue.

Just an internet guess

Update: it's alive, I am dumb
 

Ok so I figured I would take the intake off again and look at every blessed thing that I fiddled with when installing the cam and crank sensors, lo and behold the crank position sensor plug was not all the way seated. Plugged it in, turned the key to the on position, and heard that beautiful click of the DME relay circuit closing. Put everything back together, turned the key, and something that has not happened in a little while happened.....the car started. Holy hell, I really shouldn't work on my car as a break from research papers....Thanks everyone for your support and suggestions.

Thomas

Nice !

It is always a good thing to go back to what has been touched prior to the no-start issue.

Makes perfect sense, the fuel and ignition system is disabled for lack of speed and reference signals from the crank position sensors.

going to try this i have a 1995 318 ti that has been great and cant complaine , now today has a different tell. after a drive though car wash it was shut off and now wont start? turns over but nothing?at this point im going back over and going tho see what happens if i need a tow or limp her home

With your situation I would disconnect the battery negative immediately and remove your DME and dry it out. Heavy rain or car wash then no start would tell me the DME weep holes are clogged and water is pooling in the DME compartment. The quicker you remove power and dry the DME the better chance it will come back to life without damage.

Also if the DME compartment is wet then ensure you clean the weep holes so the car can drain water away from the DME

i did and even replaced the DME, nothing has changed.

You can not just swap a DME and expect it to work... It needs to be aligned with the EWS or no spark/fuel. You can have only 1 DME aligned with the EWS, meaning you can't swap DME's and expect it to run without aligning EWS since the DME's ISN number will not be correct causing the DME to respond with the incorrect ISN.

You might want to look into EWS delete using the 1 wire cut to bypass the EWS system. This works on cars 1995 and older.

Hope this helps, John S

i understand that the DME needs to be reprogrammed for my car. I was hoping that i would get a least a response from the new one, far as rpm movement or power even getting to the DME. since theirs no power at the DME I'm thinking that something got wet. when in the car wash, i,m currently going back over all fuses before i give up and let the BMW guy fix it. i did find that the flasher relay does not click when giving power and also has no resistance. Yet i still have work blinkers and flashers? after i go look at fuse I'm going to look for power drops, maybe from the water has got some corrosion problems. ...Also I've read in here that sometimes you let it dry out and it still works. so should i just try putting the stock computer(DME) back in?

smell fuel
turns over
no start

If you are smelling fuel, that suggests the fuel pump is priming and working which suggests the CPS is fine. I am not as experienced with the 318Ti M42 engine, but from my experience with other BMWs, if there is fuel going in, the CPS is reading and sending a signal back to the ECU.

Have you checked the coil pack that sits in front of the engine? Sounds like you have a no spark issue.

I would certainly put the stock DME back in if it is dry. I take it you checked all the fuses? Does the M42 have a 20 - 30 AMP (big fuse) like the E38s? Look around and under the DME in the E-Box in the engine. In the E38s, if those blow, the car won't start.

Good Luck.

thought about the coil pack and i took it all apart and found no sings of water or corrosion damage. almost finished with the relays i found under the black cover inboard of the fuse box and then ill be installing the old DME so ill look for any large 30 amp fuses but i diint see any thing like that when i was in there.