cooling system problems
 

I was just wondering if anyone has had the same problem. My 96 TI had overheated and I had replaced the little coolant fitting that is attached at the back of head,seeing that had broke. After replacing that part and hose the engine continues to overhead. The coolant just boils up in the coolant tank and does not circulate. I replaced the water pump and thermostat and still have the same problem. The radiator is not plugged up and only steam comes out on the lower hose. I'm stumped. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

Are you bleeding the air out of the system thoroughly?

Cooling Problems
 

I believe I have, I have let the engine run up until the gauge goes into red and the coolant tank has been left off to let the air out and the car is pointed down hill.

If anything, the car should be pointed uphill slightly. From this writeup;
http://www.understeer.com/waterpump.shtml

"It really helps to have a friend lend a hand by sitting in the car revving the motor and keeping an eye on the temp gauge. Start off by removing the coolant reservoir cap and the plastic bleeder screw right next to it. Fill the coolant reservoir with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. Have your friend start the car, turn on the heater to full hot on the vent position and rev the motor to about 2500 RPM, if the temp gauge goes past the 12 o'clock position, shut the motor off, let it cool down and start over again. Watch the coolant reservoir, as the engine warms up the coolant level should drop, refill as the coolant is sucked out of the reservoir. Watch the bleeder screw hole also, when coolant with no air bubbles begins to overflow then you're almost done. It's a good idea to have some paper towels handy to mop up any overflow. Screw the bleeder screw back in (be careful to not break the plastic screw) and continue to rev the motor, you should see a continuous stream of coolant spraying in to the reservoir from the small hole at the top. Continue letting that spray in to the reservoir while your friend revs the motor for a couple of minutes, until the gauge hits the 12 o'clock mark, to ensure any remaining air is gone. If the heater is blowing hot air when you're revving the motor AND when the engine is at idle then your cooling system is properly bled. If your vents are blowing cool air at idle then you still have air in the system, try revving the motor more and/or squeeze the radiator hoses to help dislodge any trapped air. Once your system is fully bled, top off the reservoir and replace the cap. Check the coolant level in a day or two and top off as needed. "

Cooling Problems
 

Thanks for the advice, I had the car pointed the other way on the hill. Do you think it will stop from boiling over in the coolant tank? Th:smile:anks

I've had coolant spray out of the bleed hole when revving the engine. I don't know who wrote that article, but I wouldn't listen to it. First the car should be facing UPHILL. Take the bleeder screw out and remove the radiator cap. TURN THE HEATER ON FULL BLAST and LET THE CAR IDLE while you slowly add coolant. As the coolant starts to flow from the bleeder hole, watch for a steady stream of coolant. Once all of the bubbles have stopped coming out of the bleed hole, replace the bleed screw, top off the coolant, replace the radiator cap and drive around the block a few times. Let the engine completely cool down and repeat the process about 3 or 4 times.

I don't know why people find it so hard to do this. I mean seriously, why in the heck would anyone park their car facing downhill? I doesn't make any sense, you want the bubbles to go up and out of the radiator, not get trapped inside of it. Try revving your engine with the bleed screw out and see what happens, that article is wrong.

Not until you get all the air out of the system...

The bad news is if you get all the air out and it still does this you have a blown head gasket or worst...Sorry:frown:

I had a fan and radiator failure recently and had a very hard time getting the air trapped in the system after replacing the parts and the engine keep overheating.

To finally get the air out i did the following: Let the engine cool for a few hours (not warm, totally cold), removed the radiator bleed screw, remove engine coolant sensor (located under the intake manifold, #7 on this link: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...g=15&lang=enUS ),