Rebuild m44 for boost
 

I'm trying to decide what I want to do with my 318ti. In stuck between swapping in a m52 or rebuilding the m44 for boost. I would prefer to rebuild the m44. Say if I go this route, assuming everything is in ok shape, am I missing anything for a complete rebuild?

Rod bearings
Main bearings
Rods
Pistons
Head work
Head bolts
Head gasket
Gasket kit
Cooling system
Chains
Chain tensioner
Chain guides
Machine shop work
Engine mounts
Misc, hoses such as radiator

Am I missing anything crutial here?

List looks good but maybe an oil pump, water pump, all freeze plugs, some of the items dont need replacement like rods, etc.

How many miles on motor and what is your HP or Boost goal? Answer this and I can help you better with your project.

What are stock Rods rated for?

200,000 miles, low compression on cylinder 2&3.

Wild like around 250-300 to the wheels and no more than 15-20psi on 8:5:1 Pistons if possible. I've read your build thread multiple times but still unsure about the turbo you chose and it what kind of power you were making at 15-20 psi.

This is my first turbo project if I choose to go this route and will most likely custom make a manifold for a top mount.

Also about tuning, midnight tuning can flash stock DME?

Ive put 250hp to them on 15psi boost for 70K miles. I think 300hp is pushing it but mit might do it if you keep the RPM's down. I think to make 300hp the pistons will need to be changed to a lower compression ratio and forged or hyperkinect(sp?)

There were 2 of us that ran 250hp all day long for many miles, never a issue

Barrie @ Mid-night can tune the car.

John S

I more than likely have a bore/prison/ring issue that causing my low compression so CP 8:5:1 are on the shopping list, along with a set of forged rods if needed

Maybe you do but most of the times I had two cylinders side by side with low compression it was the head gasket blown between the two cylinders allowing your compression to leak over to the other cylinder. If you have to bore then new 8.5:1 are in order

Here is an idea of 17psi pump 93 octane no meth spray https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FIM8sBtjss

That's what I was thinking was happeneing but a little oil in both cylinders shot them both back up to 180 psi from 90 and 80 so that's what makes me think rings. I'll just have to tear it down and find out. What were you running for a turbo? I'll be doing top mount but I know you bought an eBay turbo and had good luck with it, I'd like to avoid spending 1200 on just a turbo until I get everything set up and working properly.

Also, what's the deal with the m3/328 MAF sensor?

Oil will also "fix" the low compression in the gasket as well if its not blown all the way.
Leakdown is your friend compression tests are pretty low info. Pump each cylinder up and see if you have bubbles..

I wasn't sure if it would seal a head gasket leak like that, but i do know it ran good for about 5 second until the oil burned up ha. Regardless it will need to be rebuild from the bottom up if I'm going to boost it. Just gotta wait for it to warm up a little bit up here in Vermont.

Should I be going forged rods just for the peace of mind?

Johns got the most time on boost.. :D

I've never built a engine and regretted the forged rods, I have built one without and regretted it.. It depends on the quality you start with.

To control the cost where you want it, you have to pick a HP number and stick to it.. Otherwise mission creep will blow it.

Mag/xray any parts you install even if they are new.

Assembly is half of making strength and power, and in the big scheme the labor cost is not the gorilla in the cost. Building engine take practice at high power levels, make sure you have a good mentor on the re-assembly.

It cost me about 800 bucks for machine work and assembly on my jeep and 1K in parts.. It spins nicely to 7000 and for a rocker arm motor that had a 5000 rpm factory red line I'm happy with it. I got a b&b of all the moving parts and we did a mild job on the head, 5 cut valve job and a little basic port work. stock rods, magged and shot peened, Clay smith cam, stock valves, Hyperutecktic Pistons, Heavy valve springs and upgraded lifters, high pressure std volume pump.

Cheers.

Ebay turbos are fine you just need to loosen the bolts and red loctite each on. All the people that bag on Ebay turbos didn't take the time to ensure the turbo was in proper tolerance and bolts were loctited. I've not seen a good top mount manifold except the $1,000 666 manifold and you have to do some smashing on the pass shock tower to make it fit. I've installed 3 OBX buttom mount with no issues. It is tight but you can keep your A/C which is manditory in Florida.

328 or M3 1995 only will plug into your current MAF wiring and it allows 3" of air flow instead of the stock MAF at 2.5" You will peg a stock 2.5" around 8-10 psi of boost and then the tune goes to $hit unless you Barrie to work some magic to ignore a Pegged MAF.

BTW something is wrong in the motor so head has to come off. Also I think all M4x rods are forged it's just the M42 has a forged crank and the M44 is cast.

John S

Hmmm. Are you talking about the 666 e30 s14 manifold? Haven't seen any of the m4x motors.

I think for now I'm going to swap in another m44 find out what else may be wrong with the car and take my time building the motor and turbo setup.

Didn't you say you replaced the seals in the turbo as well? A guy I work with has about 12k on his eBay turbo and has had good luck.

What did you do with your washer fluid resivour? I would like to make a custom manifold and shove the turbo in that area or where the battery is and relocate it to the trunk.

Never replaced a turbo seal 37K on the turbo all is good. I did a bottom mount so I never had to move anything, my battery was factory installed in the back. Maybe you could try the OBX manifold unsidedown for a top mount?

Well I would much rather go top mount but my main concern with the obx is the clearance problems you had with the frame and block, I don't want to have to modify my frame and I know I could use a smaller turbo but how big could I go? I would also use 2.5 inch IC piping for a little more space