new engine build. dasc + turbo +2kits nitrous + methanol
 

Started building and modifying parts. Block and head sent out for work. I'll post mor pics as i get it done.

Turbo & Supercharger is a total waste of power supercharger will take power from the crank and getting a turbo and SC to work together is super hard and not reliable. You want real good rods, a M47 crank and good pistons. Turbo it and shoot the spray early to eliminate turbo lag. I would even think of running Meth for the nitrous enrichment to eliminate detonation. Also you will need to remove 2 degs timing for every 100hp of spray you shoot.

I'm interested to see if you do this and how long the engine will last. Make 100% sure you run a Hobbs switch with nitrous or you will destroy the motor.

I would like to see someone build a strong motor and use a 2 stage fogger kit on it. You could make 600 hp on the second stage.


Pictures show a DASC with Fogger kit installed. Run the SC and shoot 150 hp off the line and as soon as it hooks up dump a 400 hp second stage of spray.

I have played with Nitrous for over 25 years and if used right it will be a safe power adder.

Best of luck, John Smith

The idea of twin charging is a rare thing to find. So the idea is that the supercharger works well at low rpm and the turbo works well at high rpm, so in theory you get the best of both. The way im going to run it will be compounding boost where when the turbo kicks in it makes lets say 6psi in to the supercharger and the super charger compresses it further to 20psi. Its a lot of AR math and how to control the boost but i like a challenge. Its all going to be run by a haltech ecu and the nitrous is more for cooling effect to the charged air than for its hp gain. This will be the culmination of years of research, trial and error. Hope i shead a little light on the subject, and the only production car to truly twincharge i think was a 1.4 tsi VW. Search twincharge on google and Wikipedia has a write up on it

more stuff
 

Supercharger rebuild kit and some more parts came in. Box is getting full. Aluminum parts finally got sand blasted and power washed. Pistons ordered and the new rods and crank will be off for race ballance and ceramic coatings.

Also ordered some 15in steelies and some 10in wide mickey thompson soft walls.

Finished the supercharger rebuild and put on the smaller pulley. All new bearings and got all that pesky Teflon off the rotors.

Like the sound of this, are you going to be running your boost from the turbo through the supercharger won't that cause a restriction and can the super charger handle that? I remember a nissan micra turbo/supercharger that nissan made think they called is a March R around 1988 it was

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So I'm hoping it will work like this. When I pull up to the line push in the clutch pedal and put the motor on the to step in line lock. Then the throttle can be pushed down and the rev limiter will hold it at about 1100 to 1800 rpms. As soon as the clutch is released the RPMs in line lock will be released. I may have to play with this to find out how much the RPM's are going to come up between the time the clutch is let up and when it engages. I'm hoping it will hook somewhere around 23 to 2500 rpms. So off the line I will be running on the supercharger boost of about 9 to 11 psi. The pre supercharger nitrous fogger nozzle will have a lower shot somewhere around 75 to 150 shot that will be used for mostly first and second gear. After the turbo begins to build boost that boost will then be forced into the back of the supercharger which will further compounded it. I haven't decided on all my final boost numbers but as an example if 6 pounds of boost go into the supercharger that normally builds 11 pounds of boost it can compound that 6 pounds into 25 or 30 pounds. Then the second kit of nitrous which is the direct port fogger nozzles will be for third and fourth and fifth gear. This will be a fairly big shot maybe 2:50 to 400 but it's mostly there to control intake air temperatures post supercharger so that I don't have predetination in the intake. It will also add power but it's mostly there for safety. Basically I'm going to try to have the computer apply as much boost and nitrous as the car can lay down to the road. I will be using G sensors and a data logger to record and control power. Hopefully I will have an excess of boost in almost every rpm range and gear. Since this is what I do for a living I probably won't be giving out 100% of the specs and parts I use unless I decide to sell the car years down the road. I'm using a lot of v8 drag racing tricks and putting them in my euro rice. If I'm not breaking records or parts, I'm not happy

My two babies

When i first ran the nitrous i tried to line up the nozzle with the throttle shaft, my hope was to not add any more turbulence. I also bought a obd1 Dinan throttle body and bored my obd2 throttle body to fit the bigger plates. As far as i know they never made a larger obd2 throttle body. Just some of the details I'm trying to add

I'm interested to see how this works out. Please keep the board up to date with anything you are willing to share.

Thanks, John S

I will. I'll also probably shoot a couple youtube videos of first run, first drive, and first track pass exc.

Found out that the head on the engine I bought is bad, so looking for another. But I got my template for my oil pan baffle made. Now to buy some thicker sheet aluminum and cut out final parts, and weld in.

Man I think you know what you're doing. Please keep posting pics since I'm learning new stuff each post.

That baffle, what does it do? Guide oil to the pickup or something else?

Thanks, John S

oil baffle vs. windage tray
 

On the picture above the factory BMW part on the oil pan is the windage tray. That keeps the crank from slinging oil down into the oil pan in creating air bubbles in the oil. The next step is an oil baffle, which traps the oil around the pickup during hard acceleration or hard cornering. The little doors only let oil flow in around the pickup and then won't let it flow out, or slows the flow.

Ok I know about the factory tray and now understand what you are building for the oil pickup. What about a crank scraper to pull the oil off the crank that leaks through the rod bearings?

I've mostly have seen crank scrapers on all out drag cars. This is my daily driver(i know im a bit crazy) so under long engine run periods the oil that runns off the crank can help to stabilize crank temperature. Especially if an external oil cooler is used like i am going to.

I've been playing with the silver car a lot lately, but I'm back on the engine build. Pistons are ordered and being made, should have them in a few weeks. Started mapping the ecu and coming up with a few methods of controlling boost on both the turbo and supercharger. But I cannot test until its running. As for the stock engine in the black car i thought I found the line but turns out i melted the pcv valve and burnt the plugs. So i had to redesign the pcv system and hope thats what took the plugs out. Currently running on stock engine with 180k 10psi boost (dasc) + 2shots nitrous ( 75 low and 200 highend)

Received the pistons, so i started weighing parts to ballence the lower end

So, to make a long tube turbo header i didn't want to tie up my car for weeks test fitting, so this happened. Now i have a test fit engine bay in my basement. And because the block was junk i also have a test fot block to weld off of

Test fit bay finished now to fit the turbo and start fabing the header

So i decided to run the ebay turbo kit for a while so i can get some tuning done while i build the long tube top mount header. Also got the block back for the last time, rotating assembly has been race ballenced and most of the parts are in. I'm also trying to make a s85 electric oil pump run the oil cooler system, i had looked into a dry sump setup but, im running very short on engine bay space. Not to mention, pretty pricey. And im already pretty deep on a motor i may blow. But it will be fun either way

Mostly finished the adaptor block for the s85 oil pump. And the oil pan should be back from the welders monday. Ive been playing with locations for the oil cooler. Still not sure yet

Crazy build, definitely subbed!
Is that the fitment of the OBX manifold?


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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...539a88f851.pngis this the kit you're running at the moment?


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Yes its the obx manifold. Ill shoot some pics whith the test engine in the bay with the turbo kit on

Nice OBX manifold SUPER FLOW baby

Some more fabing of the waste gate dump. Now im thinking ill need to turn out an aluminum version of the back plastic water pipe. If that goes well i may try and make the side one too

new engine build. dasc + turbo +2kits nitrous + methanol
 

Looking good man! If the aluminum water pipe works out well keep the schematics, I know a lot of people would be interested in buying one my self included!


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Agreed. Someone needs to fab up some aluminum water pipes and make a fortune on this site!

NOICEE

Started fabing a prototype of the rear plastic water pipe. I made it double oring and to strattle the old oring spot because they all corrode and i wanted it to contact a fresh surface.

Finished it up. I don't know if ill try to make the other one for the side of the block.

i'm in line for one or two (three?) if you ever make more. :cool:

I'd like to get this engine done before i would make any to sell, but i may look into having a manufacturer knock out a hundred or so if the price isn't too high. But i have about 6 hours in making this first one. So if i was to make them i would have to cut that time down or do a little more re-design.

I wonder how well it will flow? It's the same diameter of the OEM one correct?


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It just supplies the heater core, right now i have an 8an fitting on it witch is a little smaller. But their is enough room to put a 10an fitting in it. For mine im deleting the ports for the heated intake plate because I run downing atlanta superchargers on mine and dont need them. But those could be added too.

Started making mounts for the oil cooler and intercooler but decided to remake the frame brace and brackets in one peice of 1/4" aluminum. Needs some finishing work but functions well

Keep up the work! Thanks for posting even when no one responds, its good to keep a record of this kind of work! :biggrin:

Fantastic work brother! Really coming along! Thanks for keeping us updated I try to reply every time I see the thread has been posted in.


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