1995 318ti supercharged project car
 

Hey everyone. I'm going to be starting work on a 318ti project car that has recently been retired from daily use. So the Ti is mine to make a weekend driver/autocross car out of...

I'm leaning heavily right now towards supercharging the car. I'm following all of the forced induction threads around the MASC, DASC, and the SEAM superchargers pretty closely. Getting 200 to 220+ rwhp out of this car will put me right where I want to be to learn the car in a track environment. Anything other than a stage 3 supercharger(with cooling) or an M3 engine swap isn't going to give me what I'm looking for. The engine swap has the potential for more power but it is a little above my abilities and would rack up a lot of labor costs.

My question to all of the other members is how much have people modified the cooling systems on the 1995 318ti? I'll be going to events in Florida mostly so the extra heat added by a supercharger is a big concern.

Do any of the E36 inline 6 oil cooling systems work with easy modifications on the m42 engine?

What about doing a fan delete kit and using an electric aux. fan? I've read that some people have clearance issues with certain intakes and the DASC kit. Does anybody have experience with aftermarket aliminum e36 radiators and eaton based supercharger kits?

I've emailed several of the companies that are selling supercharger kits to get their input on the best way to approach this project. But most of them seem to be running their products on otherwise stock vehicles.

And the final question.. Is anybody on here that is running a supercharger also running a pulley configuration that is underdriving the alternator and completely deleting the AC? I'd also be interested in any experiences using electric power steering systems.

A/C is on a different belt. I am running no A/C right now.

I've also got a '95 as a project car, already got the DASC. I'm still sorting out the fueling. I'm looking at the PCIII and some bigger injectors.

As far as cooling, mine would overheat lapping PPIR in 40 degree weather. That was the hardest I pushed it for an extended time. So I changed to Evans NPG-R coolant - a non water based coolant with a much higher boiling point - about 400deg. I've read the literature and the science is sound. It's a really good coolant but at $32 a gallon it ain't cheap. Installation is a pain too, because you have to completely flush the water out of your system. One of the biggest advantages is that because it boils so high, you can run a zero psi system, meaning you can never burst a hose. I haven't gutted my radiator cap to go zero psi yet, but I'm going to do it this summer. I wouldn't worry about another radiator setup. My overheating problem is gone.

Once I have the bigger injectors set up with fueling computer I'm going to add my 9psi pulley and probably stop there(yeah right).

Clubsport- Are you changing the AFM to a MAF? Will the M42 put out 200-220hp with an AFM? Right now the DASC kit is the only one that has an m42 kit available. Waiting to see what SEAM comes out with for the M42. The car needs wheels and tires first so those will be on the car in the next week or two.

I'd like to change to a MAF, but it's not in the plans right now. 220 would be pushing it, especially if your talking whp. You'd need 10+psi and fueling to match.

haha.. well, I had a good response, but the system timed out on me, and away it went...

The rims, exhaust, and resonator are getting ordered this week. I hope to have the AFM->MAF and M3 brake kit done by the beginning of next month. There is a shop down the street from me that has a dyno, so I may have to stop by there and see what they would charge to do a pull or two. I've not seen any numbers for what the MAF conversion does on a M42. Although many folks over at the DTM power forums say they got some pretty major increases doing this conversion on other BMW engines. If I can get 5-15HP out of the full exhaust and MAF I'll be happy. The car will get it's first taste of "track life" in July out at Sebring. So I want it breathing better and stopping faster before then.

What maintenance items should be checked on the engine before installing an SC? I'm guessing a pressure check and oil analysis should point out any problems pretty quickly. The engine has 135k miles on it, but it has been maintained very well. The valve cover was removed and the gasket replaced as well as the top of the engine inspected around 90k miles. It just had a small oil leak from the gasket, with no other problems found at that time.

I found a compression test kit online for about 90$. Is this reasonable, or is this a POS kit? My mechanic will charge me for 1 hour at his standard rate to do the check. If the 90$ kit is enough to do the job I'll do it myself when I replace the plug wires and plugs.

You can get a compression tester for less than $30 at Harbor Frieght. Check at Sears too, I think they have them for around $50.

If you aren't going to use it again, I'd just have your mechanic do it. It only takes like 5 minutes to do, so see if you can get it for less than 1 hour of his time.

I did the compression test last night, 175-185 on all cylinders. The second plug back had some oil on the top of the plug so I had to clean all of that up. I think that plug was torqued down to much when the last inspection 2 was performed as it was a real bear to remove it. I made sure the torque was right this time and will check it again in a few weeks for more oil accumulation.

So this project is officially on now that I know the engine is strong. I was pretty sure it was as it has always ran great, and it has been maintained above what BMW calls for. Wheels and tires were ordered last night, now all I have to do is order up a brake kit to do that when the wheels get here.

Replace your valve cover gaskets. That's where the oil is coming from.

How long should a gasket usually last? Just looked through my records and It was changed at 85,769k miles(3 years ago). The car is at 134k. No overheats. The radiator was about to blow so I replaced that at 120k.

I'm wondering if they didn't clean up the oil when the gasket was replaced. Although the OEM plugs were changed at 125k. Which is when the last inspection 2 was performed. I'm pretty sure my mechanic would have said something if there was oil in there when he changed the plugs.

Can you put in a more resilient valve cover gasket to help with the boost? What else has to be done if you want to use a metal gasket?

If they weren't seated properly they will leak. It's less than $30 in parts and only takes and hour or two to change.

did they replace the spark plug gaskets when they did the valve cover gasket? if not, there ya go ...

Cooling should not be a problem at sea level in FLA with a new stock radiator and BMW coolant. Make sure the water pump and thermostat was replaced and the hoses are good. I have a 95 Sport with DASC and have run Buttonwillow in sothern CA and ThunderHill in Willows CA (105 degrees in the shade) and had no cooling problems.
I've had the car to Infineon, Lagun Seca, Portland's PIR, and Seattle/Kent's Pacific Northwest Raceway. The first changes made to the car were for safety. Brakes, coilover suspension, new tie-rods control arms and bushings. New front and rear wheel bearnings. Especially front, if running larger tires. I have SS brake lines and high temp fluid. I went with 3" cooling ducts to the front but that is because I went with a Brembo BBK and like having brakes allow me to go deep if I choose. I have 17" tires and the extra weight was a factor in replacing the bearings, brakes and having cooling. I find the polly control arm bushings are not lasting more than a year but I think our CA roads are destroying more than the track is. I'm going back to rubber on the control arms for now, the pollys were pretty wasted. I may try the the new blended compound from BavAuto in the future. I use rear shock tower mounts from BMP. All others have failed within a few months with the coilovers. Gary

Cali- I was actually talking to a Toyota service person today and they said the same thing. I checked the invoice and there is no mention of plug gaskets being replaced...

Looking at my bentley and haynes manual this only requires pulling off the plugs, the plastic tray around the plugs, and the cylinder head cover. I should then be able to get at this particular gasket right?

I don't have any of the tools to lock the cam at TDC so I've always been real hesitant to open up the engine. But if I can replace this gasket without needing to get into that level of depth in the engine, I'd be comfortable doing it.

Looking at the parts I need to get one of the gaskets with a hole off to the side, and three of gaskets that are just circles, correct? Should I just buy a new cylinder head cover gasket since I'm going to be in there anyways?

the same thing happened to me i was getting oil in the plug channel and its the plug seals. you need to take the valve cover off and replace the seals might as well change the valve cover gasket as well. by the way when setting it back in place use a little silicon/adhesive sealent in the channel the valve cover gasket plugs into on the valve cover itself and the plug seals cause it helps to hold them in place when you put the valve cover back on if not it'll be a pain in the a$$ and keep coming off.