Took head off old motor. Still working on the new replacement so taking time. The trans bolts near rear main covered in oil, so rear main leaking badly from crank walk confirmed. Cylinders 3-6 piston hot valve and keeper fell out of head. RPMs went wayyyy to high. But it gave confirmation to what engine builder (Tony) had said happened. Hopefully S52 in by Christmas. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b6541fab8e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3156d66903.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b5bc77b8d1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3c191c8b2c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...34df928706.jpg


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Engine pulled, still rebuilding S52. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1a98bb524f.jpg


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Took cams out old head. She gone. Will get scrapped since there is scarring on parts of cam from metal fragments. Did some calculations and motor went to roughly 9040RPM. Hopefully S52 done next week to get put back together. No real upgrades while out. Just Lemforder E46 M3 mounts. Picked up thread chaser kit and will be doing all the bolts over weekend. Got new lock nuts etc from BMW. Using new hardware is so much nicer.
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Motor done. New IWIS race chains, mix of Febi/BMW stock guides, all new gaskets, head was taken off and decked. Covers bead blasted. Looks good. Motor sat for a while so exhaust cam was turned as well. Lots of rust up top that needed cleaned.

Tried to get in yesterday but could not get pan to clear. Just going to take out trans and do it like last swap.

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Nice, thanks for the update posts. Interested in doing the same for my Cali in 2018.


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From your sig you have an S52 swap right? I need to get this fired up and see how it compares to the 2.8 M50. That was a good motor. Have you looked into the 3.0 that some make from M52 Block and and I think M54 rotating assembly bits? Also motors and trans in. I dented nose panel and bumper I just painted, easy to touch up but my own stupid fault not paying attention. I put it in with the trans mounted, gets pretty tight. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...19b0efcf9e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...51cce5d308.jpg


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I do have a S52 Swap that I picked up from Adam last year. I have M50, M52, M42, M44, M62tu and the S52.

I can comment from how my butt meter feels from an acceleration point. Night and day for sure. My DASC for the M42 and M44 is collecting dust as I have less incentive to install them. The M42/DASC is the one that is waiting for a Slicktop shell to surface.

Trans, I did swap to a 5sp ZF and E34 M5 PP and UCC LW flywheel. 8.5 lbs I think, over the 26lb dual mass. Just have to go back around and figure out brakes as the Hawk HP+ are just not enough just now... I can launch just fine. Just have to stop as quick... [emoji15]


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Well got the car basically back to how it was. I’m leaking a little oil either from back of pan or rear main seal housing. Just enough that I’ll want to fix it. Other then that all is good for 0 history S52. Using cheap Castrol GTX 10w-40 and Redline additive it’s very quiet. Small lifter tick with first startup but gone within 5 miles. No coolant leaking or temp issues. Getrag seems to be fine. Now too tidy the rest of it.

Rich - lightweight flywheel will be next once this clutch goes. But that maybe a while.


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I WANT WARM WEATHER!!!

Car has sat for winter due to the atrocious Michigan roads. 40 miles put on since the swap. Been stocking a bunch of parts for preventative maintenance and to get it done.

Parts to install when it's not 6F outside
Siemens/VDO Pump
Vaico strut mounts (Don't need but I'm taking e90 hats off for stock e36. Cheap enough)
E36 Spring perch
OE Spring Pad
Elring strut gasket
OE Strut reinforcement place (Thanks BlueBimma)
Febi flex disc
Rein center support bearing
Vaico driveshaft centering bushing
UUC 27MM Swaybar
Febi rear wheel bearings
FAG front wheel bearings
Bosch FPR
Full rear brakes, soft/hard lines if need be, rotors, pads, calipers
FEQ E30 6cyl halfshafts

The plan is to have any real wear item be replaced within the last 20K/original swap timeframe. This includes bushings, hoses, fluids and things that could leave me stranded. I am going to be having it looked over by a shop since the pros can see what I can't. Replace any hard/soft fuels lines if needed. Need warm weather to paint too. I want to get back to driving it as that's what I like it for. It sure isn't a garage queen.

question on shift linkage
 

ive been trying to get a solid anser and cant seem to find one. Im doing a m50 swap in my 95 ti. i have everything need to perform the swap. The only question is do i need to change my shift linkage or my factory one on my 5 speed with my m42 will work?

You don’t need to touch the trans. Maybe change the clutch but an M50 isn’t that much more power over M42 for the clutch.

Obviously you could refresh Trans bushings if you wanted to.


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AWESOME!! thank you. I have a new clutch ready to go, fresh m50 as well.

Progress has been much slower than I’d like. Zender E30 been taking up time and life work been eating at free time but it’s still a work in progress. I’m hoping to be fully done by August first. I’ll be having a shop do some of the stuff I don’t have the tools for (stupid rear wheel bearings) and have them do the rear brake lines. There are some hard lines I’d like replaced and I’m not that good with the bending tool for brake lines yet. Don’t wanna do it on the daily.

It also ate some power steering stuff causing atrocious steering. It will feel at times there is power steering midway through a turn. So the car has been sitting unfortunately for most of spring. Since I plan to bring this back to a daily I have purchased a new steering rack from RackDoctor, AAE reman pump, newer lines already on the car, new reservoir, tie rods, steering shaft and u joint. The e34 solid joint maybe failing for some reason. It only has about 20K on it but I’ll inspect when it all comes down. Steering has no feeling on center now. It’s going to BlueBimma to get a look at on the rack once done.

I still have small things to do on the motor, the 2 tensioners need installed and the new OE cam sensor. After that all the sensors on the motor are new and any timing piece. Should be good for another 100K. I’ll be chasing oil every 3 to keep as much life in the bearings as possible. Oils cheap.

Once steering is fixed I have clean stock Z3M coupe springs and the pads to jack the rear up. It’s way to firm and squirmy with the HRs on it. I will also put in the new GKN 6 cyl halfshafts. Wheel bearings done around same time. if anyone is curious the new GKN axles don’t have the hump in the center. I would imagine advances in metals/casting (someone correct me if it would be a cast method, forged?) no longer need the hump.

For the amateur body work your local paint shop can whip up some base coat. For me it was $30 for the pint of basic PPG and $6ea to place into aerosol cans. Makes a quick paint of bumper trim extremely easy. Just use PPE!

I’m hoping I can update this post with this thing done. It’s had many set backs but I’m hopeful this summer can prove productive. Cheers all!

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Glad it is back on the road! I have a situation maybe you can help? I am removing automatic trans from my 96ti and installing getrag 250. With s52 and M3 size clutch which clutch slave,master and throw out bearing to use? We have a problem with clutch bled and solid stream it seems pedal only comes to any pressure as it is very near the floor. Wondering if 318ti bearing is taller? Maybe someone has used 250 getrag with s52 in a ti and could help.


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If you're using an M3 clutch use and M3 slave and PP. Everything else can be any e36 6cyl. I am using the Getrag 250 behind this motor. 0 issues, i just change the fluid every other oil change.

Follow the steps here to bleed slave.

To completely bleed the slave cylinder you have to do the following after using the pedal-pump or pressure bleeding methods:

1) Slowly pump the clutch pedal to build pressure to push the brake fluid through the line and fill the slave.
2) Unbolt the slave cylinder from the gearbox
3) Attach a tube from the bleeder screw to a small bottle
4) Hold the slave cylinder so that the bleeder screw is pointing straight up*
5) Open the bleeder screw
6) Push the rod/piston all the way in to the slave cylinder
6) While holding the rod/piston in, close the bleeder
7) Repeat steps #4-#6 two or three times or until its too hard to push in when the valve is closed
8) Ditch the tube and old fluid.
9) Bolt the slave cylinder back in place, be very careful that the tip of the rod lines up with the indentation on the fork
*Very important