97 318ti No Crank No Start
 

So I have a 97 318ti That I just finished a bunch of work on (pulled then engine and resealed all gaskets, performed m20 flywheel and clutch replacemen) ran great for the last couple days with no issues, then today went to start it and nothing, all dash lights and radio work, but the starter makes no noise, not even solenoid, I installed a brand new (remanufactured) starter during all the work so I doubt that it would be the starter, my EWS 2 module makes a click noise when I move the key to the "on" position, does this mean that it is accepting it? also, the previous owner wired in a VIPER security system, so I am not sure which of these two systems I should be looking at or which could be the cause.

any advice or information would be nice,

Thank you

Sounds like your EWS is reading the key and accepting it since you hear the click. I would bet you have another starter kill switch with the alarm that you need to track down. Also clutch pedal switch is you are manual. Also check all fuses...I mean all of them with a meter. On my car if one of the 7.5 amp fuses blows it gives all lights on dash but won't crank over. You can jumper with a screw driver the starter engage wire to center 12 volts positive (big wire on starter) to see if the starter works. Be very careful doing this OK. Short to ground will cause a massive spark and damage and cars in gear will start rolling so you have been warned.

Good Luck, John S

Udate
 

So I spent most of yesterday testing what I could, I checked all my fuses, and found a burnt out fuse for my drivers high beam, but thats all. Tested the starter just like you recommended in your post, it works fine, tested all wires and connections, no issues, I found the relay click from the EWS module was the clutch switch not the ignition. I tested the antenna ring for the key, it was only 3 ohms, so no worry there, which makes the problem either the key (of which i only have 1 and it has seen better days) the transponder or the EWS 2 Module itself. Is there any way to test these parts without any bmw special tools?

Thanks much

Darrel

Bypass key check by taking the 2 thick wires on the EWS and short together. This will bypass the key check to send power to the starter

So i had pulled the starter out and taken it in and had it tested and it spun up with no issues, I tried the screwdriver in the car and its no dice, full voltage at battery and at the positive post for the starter, what could stop it from there?

That is odd. Do you have 12 volts to the starter center pole (Large diameter pole)

Okay, this is urgent for me. I've got the same issue and I can't seem to find the solution. I took my engine apart to do a cooling system overhaul.

I'm stealing cooljess' picture for this. I have my two red cables connected to the post #1. I never touched post #3. The thinner black wire is connected to post #2. The thicker black wire is connected to post #4.
I get 12V between post #1 & #2.
I get 12v between post #1 & #3.

I never get any voltage between #1 & #4. I can leave the key off or on, nothing happens.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...y/CIMG4767.jpg

I tested all the fuses and they are all continuous, not blown.

Why am I not getting any power between posts #1 & #4?

Can INPA or DIS/GT1 read what is going on?

Did you reverse your black wires? If you shorted 1 to 2 or 1 to 4 to test if starter works.

You need someone to turn the key to the start position while you check for 12 volts on one of those small black wires thst is only 12 volts when key is in the start position.

I think you already did the short test and the starter worked so which ever pole shorted to center is you start solenoid pole and you want to connect the black wire that is 12 volts with the key in the start position to this pole. If you have no 12 volts on either black wire when in the start position then EWS or something like a alarm is not allowing the 12 volts to the starter energize pole. For now just the basics and then start bypassing items on ews it we can't get through these checks listed above

Thanks John.

I cannot reverse the black wires. I just tried and the sizes are different so they cannot fit on each other's respective pole.

Connecting my positive lead to pole 1 and negative lead to pole 2 gives me 12V when the key is in position 0 or position 2. So it seems that it gets power 100% of the time. This is the smaller gauge black wire.

Connecting my positive lead to pole 1 and negative lead to pole 4 gives me 0V in position 0 and position 2. I haven't had anybody put the key in the start position and tried to measure voltage at this point. I will try and report back after work tomorrow.

When I put the key into position 2, I don't hear the fuel pump priming. I can hear (and feel) one relay click. It is the forward mint green one in this picture (not my fuse box but similar). I believe it is the fuel pump relay. I've swapped it with the other mint green and it is still just the forward mint green one that clicks.
http://www.318ti.org/forum/attachmen...9&d=1179165419

Please elaborate which wires to short together to bypass the EWS. Thank you.

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Find the EWS II module located behind glove box. Remove EWS unit and wiring harness. On the wiring harness to the EWS there are two thick wires, There are a few small wires but you will see two wires much bigger then the others. Take these two thicker wires and connect them together by striping and soldering them or using a T-Tap connector (My favorite and easiest). This will only bypass the EWS starter kill. EWS will still be active for ignition and fuel. If the DME ISN does not match EWS stored ISN then no fuel or spark.

This will eliminate the EWS starter kill by bypassing the start relay.

If you turn on the key with all wiring on the starter and a good ground to the starter body, jumper #1 to #2 and that will energize the starter solenoid and the starter should engage the bendix and start rotation.

You should not get any fuel pressure until the DME detects the engine is rotating, so until the engine is cranking over and the crank position sensor detects rotation the fuel relay will not engage sending power to your fuel pump.



Hope this helps, John S

If I override (bypass) the EWS by putting jumper between pin #1 and pin #3. Can I use any DME, of course same parts number with the original DME, should the car start?

I need help to clarifies between the Cam Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor. If the Camshaft Position Sensor is not functioning correctly, what are the affected components, likewise the Cam Sensor. How about the fuel injection signal light, which component to affect. I appreciate all input, thank you.

The camshaft and position sensor are the same, if the sensor stops working the engine will crank but not fire, same if the crankshaft pos sensor goes out. Im not sure if there is any way to test these without an o-scope, but if you've tuled out most everything else new parts cant hurt.

How about the cylinder fuel injection valve firing, does it affected if the CPS and Cam Sensor malfunction? My car have no spark at the plugs but there's a 12VDC input at the coil pack when start the car. Likewise, there's no voltage at the fuel pump but it works when override the fuel pump relay. Also, there's no signal light at the cylinder fuel injection valve but there's a 12VDC when using there body ground. I replaced both of the Sensors and the DME/EWS with key chip. I am stumped with the troubleshooting and I don't want just replacing parts especially the DME/EWS because it's too expensive. Maybe I replaced with another bad Sensors?