EWS
 

I was going to post this under my project build but maybe others can benefit from the info under one heading.

Could the pros please post what symptoms a project would exhibit when encountering EWS (Electronische Wegfahrsperre) http://www.computersolutions.cn/blog...02/BMW_EWS.pdf or Electronic Drive Away Protection issues? Are the symptoms listed below examples of “classic” problems with EWS issues encountered during an engine swap?

A few common terms used:

Position 0 – Key is inserted/removed in this position.
Position 1 – Steering lock disengaged.
Position 2 – Electrical equipment and accessories are on/can be turned on. Cluster lights up with the usual warning lights, etc.
Position 3 – Starter is activated.

Scenario 1:
Position 2 - Turn the ignition key to position 2 but no response (dead, non-lit, zero indication on cluster).
Position 3 - Nothing, no sound, no results.

Scenario 2:
Position 2 - cluster is lit normally with the usual warning lights, etc.
Position 3 – nothing, no sound, no results.

Scenario 3:
Position 2 - cluster is lit normally with the usual warning lights, etc.
Position 3 - starter is activated and engages/cranks engine but engine does not catch/start.

Scenario 4:
Position 2 - cluster is lit normally with the usual warning lights, etc.
Position 3 - starter is activated and engages/cranks engine. Engine runs momentarily but dies immediately.

I can answer all these for EWS-II. Want a copy of your symptoms and what is the cause from a EWS stand point if EWS is the issues causing the problem?

John boy,
Could you please post the cause or is this something better handled through PM. Thanks.

Scenario 1: Not EWS related. No power to system
Position 2 - Turn the ignition key to position 2 but no response (dead, non-lit, zero indication on cluster).
Position 3 - Nothing, no sound, no results.

Scenario 2: Key does not match EWS unit due to starter not working
Position 2 - cluster is lit normally with the usual warning lights, etc.
Position 3 – nothing, no sound, no results.

Scenario 3: Key matches EWS due to starter active. DME and EWS unit are not alligned, no spark or fuel pump
Position 2 - cluster is lit normally with the usual warning lights, etc.
Position 3 - starter is activated and engages/cranks engine but engine does not catch/start.

Scenario 4: EWS is working correctly. Different issue causing engine to not remain runnning
Position 2 - cluster is lit normally with the usual warning lights, etc.
Position 3 - starter is activated and engages/cranks engine. Engine runs momentarily but dies immediately.

Can EWS "comms" or sync go bad? In other words, say you have all the correct parts from the donor (key chip; EWSII green box; and ECU), car and all those same parts are in working order/not damaged. Could it be possible once they are all installed in the recipient car, they do not align, causing the car not to start.
Reason I ask this question is because it seems most troubleshooting I see on this forum when dealing with anon-starting swap always ask the same question: Do you have all the necessary EWS parts from the donor car?

I have not had a EWS unit go out of allignment with the DME and I've purchased many DME kits with the matching EWS and key.

The DME's INS is written to ROM in the EWS unit along with key codes. After the Key code is matched to EWS starter is enabled then DME sends a querry to EWS for a INS match, if the match is good you get fuel pump and spark from the DME. All this happens in a fraction of a second and if all match you have a running car.

Was the previous wiring in the car EWS-II also what issue to you have? No starter or cranking-over and no spark or fuel pump?

Previous car was 1997 M3/4/5. She ran like a champ before removing the engine. Installed the engine in my 1998 318ti (I know, I know...I should only install a newer engine - not an older one...).
She now exhibits Scenario 3:
Position 2 - cluster is lit normally with the usual warning lights, etc.
Position 3 - starter is activated and engages/cranks engine but engine does not catch/start.

Today I checked the fuel pump by directly applying 12V. Test was SAT.

You should check spark too? Also do you hear any other sensors working from the DME? I would think your DME is not turing on at all. They do not go out of sync and your key chip is right and communicating with EWS

The EWS "Green Box", was this the module located behind the glove compartment or the module just inward of the driver's side footwell? Reason I ask is because the module just inward of the footwell is for the ews antenna ring that goes around the ignition cylinder. Those have to match as well ie; if you swap the antenna ring, you have to swap the module. However, you can use your old antenna ring and your old module. Marv17 had ews issues and I traced it down to his uncle swapping the ews module located inward of the driver's side footwell. His car started when he placed the M3's steering column on the floorboard of his ti(because the M3's steering column still had the antenna ring attached to it that matched the module his uncle swapped). Swapped his old module back in and the thing fired up no problem. Man, I hope it's something as simple as this:wink:

The green box I'm referring to is actually black. The front of the box has a green sticker with EWSII and other written info. The rear of the box where it gets plugged in is yellow. The box is located on the right hand side, behind the glove box. This box came from my donor S52 – same as the ECU and key chip.

I have not touched anything on the steering column.

Now that I think of it, I still have the steering column from the M3 in my storage when I parted it. I’m going to check if there is an antenna on it.

You can do the antenna swap but that should be good since you have starter action. I've done all mine without the antenna swap. Your issue is DME related and most likely not allignment but no power to the DME at all. Your Key already matches and approved through EWS to start the car but your DME is not allowing fuel so is it even powering up? The only way this could happen is if EWS start was jumped in your EWS unit and the key was not the match then it would need the antenna change...

Also your not running 2 chips? Like the old chip in your key and the matching chip in the antenna ring? It can only have the matching EWS chip in the antenna ring or there will be issues. I like to run a remote antenna in a hidden area with the matching chip taped to it.

Additional information your 1998 ti runs the same DME & EWS system as a 1997 on all the 318 model cars 1996 has a 667 DME which is only a older software. It is the 668 DME for the 318 or M5.2. I have swapped both 1997 and 1998 DME's in my car for different tunes with the EWS and had no issues ever.

Now the wiring might be different for the M3 DME even though the plugs for the all DME's clips are the same so make sure you swap the wiring all out ok so you have the correct DME clip on your DME.?

John S

Hey guys I have same issue swapped dme 413 silver with ews complete set...starter turns but no fuel or spark....? If I take off antenna or chip out of key the starter doesn't even try so this says chip and ews module are aligned... But maybe not dme? Also have a red label 413 same thing what's the best thing to try? It's a 95 318ti for some reason the ews 2 has a silver box on the 95 and just says ews on it?? It now has an obd 1 m52 in it.

I'm having trouble starting my ti. My situation is similar to scenario 3. At first, the car would have a no crank, no start, so i took it to my mechanic and they told me it was the ews or immobilizer so i bypassed it and then it would crank but not start. So the mechanic told me it was still a ews problem or dme bu they weren't sure so they told me to take it to bmw. I'm wondering what could be the problem. If its still the ews or a dme problem? If anyone could help that would be great!

Non-Start in Swapped Ti, intermittently
 

Scenario 2:
Position 2 - cluster is lit normally with the usual warning lights, etc.
Position 3 – nothing, no sound, no results.

This is the Scenario that I face intermittently, seem to be slightly related to battery power, as it will start with a sufficiently powerful jump or always bump starts. Then it will start reliability 15 to 20 or more times in a row. If I start the car and move it a few times, draining partially the Miata battery in the trunk, I will get a Scenario 2.

This is a 6/96 Ti with a 7/96 S52 swap. Since it will start many times in a row, with either key, I suspect it is not a problem with the key. Buy what?

Anybody got an ideas about this situation?

TIA