Whirring clutch and oil leak? I've been watching a very consistent oil leak pattern (I don't have a way myself to get under the car to see it) the past 3 weeks. I also seem to have a noisy clutch. It seems to whirr when depressed where it didn't seem to make any noise at all before. Am I imagining this noise or is that what everyone hears when the clutch is going bad? The oil leak seems to be in the area of the rear main seal (and is 1" wide and about 5" long), then about 4 inches forward there is another leak (2" wide/4" long) which I assume is another seal or perhaps oil pan. So... 1. Do I need to worry? 2. Should I repair this immediately? 3. What could I be looking at price wise? The research I've done, along with the friend that will be helping me (and his friend a real honest to god mechanic) sees that the rear main seal is $50, other seals around this area are around $25. If I have to replace the clutch I'm reading like $300 in parts? Does that sound right? What harm is there if I don't/can't replace the clutch. The noise seems to be getting louder but I'm just not sure. Thanks for the advice once again! |
if oil is leaking into the bell housing, then this will make you clutch slip and ruin the clutch over time. if the leak is centralised around the sump area, then a change of seals and it may be good enough.. but if it is the ring seal on the crank, then itll be in the direction of your first post |
If you only hear a noise when the clutch pedal is pushed in, that's the throw-out bearing going bad. |
I haven't noticed any clutch slippage at all. How different is replacing the main seal than replacing the clutch -- that is to say to replace that seal don't you do the first half of the clutch replacement anyway? My ignorance is palpable, but if I'm going to have the clutch exposed and I'm already 'sure' its making noise, doesn't it make sense to replace it since I'm sitting at 160k miles? What do you guys think? |
Has the clutch ever been replaced? If you are at 160k miles on the original clutch you are on borrowed time. I would say that is a pretty long time for a clutch to last. If the clutch is going bad and you don't replace it you run the risk of damaging the flywheel and also have to replace it. Replacing the flywheel basically doubles the price of the job. OEM dual mass flywheels are 600-700$+. Some shops will tell you that you can't resurface a dual mass flywheel, but it is really just a matter of finding a machine shop that has the ability to do it. |
Well if it were just the throw-out bearing I"d save about $330 on parts!!! And the only time I hear any weird noise is when I depress the clutch. Not after or when the car is moving, just when I push it in. I'd still have to tear the tranny off obviously to do this but I need to be able to do this myself, I simply can't afford to take it anywhere right now. I saw the pelican parts walk thru but check out this link ---> http://www.bmwteam.net/Veribank/BMWB...eplacement.pdf its a really really good PDF with every single step (it looks like) shown with pictures. Its a lot easier to follow than the pelican parts one. Could this issue and the oil leak be connected in any way or is it most likely a coincidence? |
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I've only owned the car since spring, but I do have extensive service records from the original owner. I'll go get them out of the car and look to see if he ever replaced the clutch. I'm slightly confused on this dual-mass flywheel. How do I know if I have one? The pelican parts listed two options for 318ti's one with and one without dual-mass clutches. Also, if I replace the clutch do I need to have the flywheel resurfaced? From the walkthru I posted earlier it doesn't appear that its always mandatory. |
I think it depends on the condition of the flywheel. I can't say that I know what to look for other than I believe a damaged flywheel will have a rough surface and possibly some pitting, or "warping" of the surface. I do believe that it is recommended that a fly wheel be resurfaced at a minimum. |
I'm not sure if I'm getting more worried or less worried about this. I just looked thru my collection of service records I have from the last owner (I know every single time he bought a wiper blade, battery, tire, oil filter...) and there is no mention that he ever replaced the clutch. The resurfacing might not be so bad. The father of the guy who's going to help me is a gunsmith, something tells me he's either be able to resurface it, or would know someone who could. I know, I know, don't take it to someone who is an idiot. I won't. Still researching stuff. I wish I knew if the oil leak was related to the noisy clutch. When I went out to get the service records I did check the oil and it was down a half quart. I'm about 2500-3300 on this oil change so I'm not sure if that would be normal or not. |
Google slipping clutch and find out how to test it. The rattle may be related to one of your heat shrouds rusting through. Mine only rattled when the clutch was disengaged and was intermittent. Have your buddy look at that first (do the washer trick if necessary) and see if that makes it go away. |
For the life of me I can't seem to find a good answer: what is the washer trick? One other question, I haven't been driving the car as much lately due to a seasonal layoff - is it possible that my leaks are caused by this? I'm running 10w-40 at the moment and found a BMW site where someone suggested 50 weight oil could cure a leak. Any thoughts? |
1. Do I need to worry?...YES 2. Should I repair this immediately?.....ABSOLUTELY!!! what are you nuts? joking hehe 3. What could I be looking at price wise? if its a Manual $600 plus labor... automatic rebuilds around 1500 |
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