HELP!! My 318ti WONT START!!!
 

I have 1996 bmw 318ti that was running fine! Until one morning it wouldn't start up anymore!!! All i remember was that the night before, it raining heavily. So its been like a month since it never cranked on again. Me and my dad have checked the fuel pump, ordered 2 others (first one was faulty) and installed it. However that was not the problem because it would still not start and we tested the original pump and IT was working as well! so that was obviously not the problem. I remember the check engine light would come on randomly every other day for a period of 3 weeks. We put the OBDII and it read "camshaft Position sensor"...thats all i remember. Well i took it to the mechanic and he said to order that Camshaft Sensor and a crankshaft sensor. I ordered the camshaft and he installed it and still no start. He said that ordering the crankshaft may be a waste of time and money because supposedly the spark plugs nor the fuel pump are receiving current flow. (this is why my dad and i assumed at first it was a fuel pump issue) He has told us that it may be a bad ECU/DME. I've read on other forums that the ECU's on these cars are well known for getting fried when wet, i figured that since the night before it refused to turn on it was pouring and thundering, that may be related to it? I'm hoping it may be a bad fuse maybe that is causing this? ANY recommendations? should i buy the crankshaft? or the ECU? or a fuse? i've already bought a fuel pump, and a camshaft, but no luck...its stressing the heck out of me...:confused:

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36035

Alot of information in this forum.....Search and read....you should find some direction in here.....Good luck.... let us know what you come up with...Here some related thread

Check all of your fuses. I once had a no start condition which was related to a fuse. I don't remember the number exactly... 41, maybe? Anyway, take each fuse out 1 at a time, look to see if it's blown, replace if necessary.
The problems I have heard about fried ecm's and rain were on early e36's. The drains were not sufficient. But drains can clog on any car. The ECM is easy to get to. You can take it out and look for damage pretty easily. But check the fuses first.

Yep I just did this same thing as stated in my other thread .? Check all your relays .

No fuel and spark is what I had . And it was a relay for me . I believe the very first 2 I think

Wait, so you had no fuel in your car?

Thanks, i'm going to check it asap....hopefully the mechanic will not get offended haha

in your fuel rail press the little valve and see if fuel is comming out .

i had no fuel or spark

There's no spark at all? Does it turn over of just straight up you turn the key and it's quiet... Do you hear the fuel pump humming?

No spark to anything really...were thinkings its the ecu...Fuel pump works when tested with battery...

I have the same issue. I have checked everything. I have spark, fuel, cleaned fuel filter since it is relatively new, fresh fuel, and made sure all fuses were good and switched relays. Nothing has worked. I am thinking dme as well and I have one coming this week that I am going to swap with and see what happens. I am also thinking fuel pressure regulator. However I don't know where it is. My ford had it on the rail. But I don't see it on this m44. There is some kind of module in front of my fuel filter. Could that be regulator? What fixed your problem?

What year is your vehicle? If its pre 96 I can help you maybe. Mines a 96 and unfortunately its impossible to work your way around an obd2 ews2 BMW. Unfortunately my car is still not fixed because it will cost 2200$ to replace your ecu...or dme. That's why I have not fixed mine. If your is a 96 or after...your in my position as well and I will recommend ecudoctors.com. I haven't tried it but I will soon. If you bought a used dme from eBay it will not work because of the ews system

It's a 97 m44 obd2. It does have the normal BMW 11 or 12 pin computer connector on it though. I have tried fuel pump as well. I am going to try a new crank sensor since I've already done the cam. I didn't even mess with diverter unit or pressure regulator since I had 40lbs at the rail. But I am getting desperate really quick. I have worked on it everyday for two weeks not lol. Totally stumped.

Just found this!

http://www.ecutool.com/BMW-EWS2-EWS3-IMMO_4208.html

I may go for it, starting my 97 ti is wierd sometimes

My BMW 318Ti Sport (Year 2000)
 

I guys, I am a new member to the forum and website and just glad I found this available on the net. Seems a lot of you guys no hell of a lot about the BMW 318Ti Sport, so that's why I have signed up and try to get your help. I bought My BMW 318Ti Sport (Reg Year 2000) February this year and as been on the drive since as I have not insured her yet but did start her up occassionaly with no problems, but I came out to fire her up (about 10 days ago) and there was NOTHING, NO Ignition lights, nothing worked just nothing when trying to turn the engine over. I got some jump leads, then turned the key and straight away fired up, left it for a good 30 minutes, turned the engine off, then tried to start the engine again, and the same thing happened, just dead. I have checked all battery terminal connections etc and everything seems tight and clean. I have checked the fuses but cannot see a blown one and the big plug in relay type fuses, I cannot tell if one of those are knackered, not sure how. I cannot open the boot either nor the fuel flap, so I had to climb into the boot to release and pull the release for the fuel flap to open, then I put more fuel in but still the same.(I only have one car key with the built in torch) Any ideas guys, i'm not mechanically mined but will have a go at testing things if you could walk me through it. Also I do know the battery is 2 years old. Your help is much appreciated Jase

I was having terrible starting issues with my '98 318ti. Found out the big issue there was the plug wires were placed wrong. Car would then start but had a serious erratic idle. Checked everything that I have found throughout all the forums.
It is just plain idiotic what change we made to get the car to run and not just stall out. Reversed the plug wires. It makes no sense as to why it works like that.
If anyone has any info as to why that change improved the cars drivability, please clue me in!