Quote:
| Originally Posted by Dredder Power steering line and a/c line should come from the M3. Also the shop needs to know how to sync the EWS. You can either that you can take it to the dealer for sync (GT1 or similar diagnostic tool). The clutch and flywheel setup should be able to migrate without issues. I recommend getting new clutch disc but not necessary. You can leave the radiator but make sure you install the 80C thermostat to keep the engine cool (if you live in a sunny environment recommend going with m3 radiator and bottom support). If you are using the M3 transmission you will need to modify the shift linkage, if going with 318ti tranny it’s a bolt on. If you’re using 318ti front suspension it will work but it rides really low. Ideal get M3 front shock and spring setup. M3 sway bar connects to strut while 318ti connects to LCA. Once you’re done with the swap you will enjoy the heck out of your car again. You will no longer smell your opponents exhaust fumes. Make sure you get fresh synthetic oil for your tranny and differential. I recommend using either the royal blue or redline product. It’s really thick. Get fresh brake pads if you’re going to stay with 318ti brakes. |
Thanks a lot! I recently put in a 3.45 LSD from a clubsport, should I just keep it? I am swapping the whole front suspension, including brakes, so thats no issue.
So everything pretty much bolts on if I use the stock tranny? Is there any reason not to use the stock tranny?
What kind of performance can I expect with this setup. I know 0-60 doesn't tell that much, but I figure if an M-coupe weighs 200lbs more, then I should be close to m5 territory?
What do I do about the exhaust? I currently have a remus system