Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowBimma  Something else I tell people is not to over tighten their small fasteners for these gaskets. Most only torque to 7-15 ft-lbs which is usually done by hand. You do more harm than good when you over tighten because now you've pinched a brand new gasket and are still leaking oil. |
All Great suggestion as well as this one.
I just started tackling the entire rear and dropped the exhaust and undid the entire rear. The rear subframe is ready to drop, I just need to buy 2 more jack stands
to actually drop it.
Now that I have been inspecting and might go 24v in the future, I am just going to do everything now.
SS lines
rear wheel bearings
pads
diff flush/refill with redline
75d akg poly subframe and diff bushing
trailing arm bushings
rear sway
rear sway bar bushing links
z3 rear shock mounts
center support bearing
missing anything that I "should do while there"?
Question about the bushings... I hear different philosophies. I know a guy (super fast and experienced - as well as material science engineer) who runs stock/softer bushings in places which are on a hinge (i.e. trailing arms) and runs harder bushings (i.e. polyurethane, solid) in places which are stationary (i.e. subframe, diff bushing). What is your perspective on this? I think it makes sense for absorption/dampening. I was thinking of doing the same.
Ahhh yes - and should I do the rear reinforcement stuff too? Is it necessary? Rear Camber adjustment, reinforcement tabs, etc.