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Old 05-10-2016, 02:21 AM   #13
spidertri
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Elizabeth City, NC
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Wow, it has been a while since I updated this thread. I always seem to run out of time to just sit down and crank out an update, still taking pictures though.

So about a month ago, I was working on installing the crank scraper. It was a very tedious process. I removed the 7 bearing bolts to install the crank scraper and spacer for the pickup tube bracket. Using the old bolts I was able to snug the crank scraper into place and check clearances.

At first I was really only looking at where the counterweights contacted the scraper (which was several spots) and I filed them down until I had 1mm clearance to all the counterweights. Silly me, I thought I was done and then noticed some tight gaps from the edges of the scraper that go to the bolt holes. After several more test-fits I was happy with the clearance to every moving part that gets near the crank scaper. I used 7 new bolts and torqued them to spec. (BMW TIS was very helpful through this process)



With the crank scraper installed, I was finally able to reinstall the stock oiling parts. Something to note, the stock windage tray was able to be installed but the clearance to the main bearing bolts on the scraper side was definitely reduced.



Before reinstalling the oil pump chain I primed the pump with oil and spun the gear by hand. Used a new gasket on the pickup tube-to-pump connection and bolted the tube to the bracket. The Achilles oil pump shaft uses a bolt instead of nut to hold the gear to the pump. It is left-hand thread like the stock nut/shaft. Friend of mine who does aircraft QA came over and safety wired the oil pump bolt.



With the oil pump and parts reinstalled, I could finally put the pan back on. Used a fresh gasket and RTV at certain specific locations (timing cover and rear main seal seams).

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98 328ti Morea Grun slicktop
11 128i space gray slicktop
13 JGC WK2 Deep Cherry

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