Quote:
Originally Posted by SueL  Hello,
I was intrigued by your post about a permanent fix for a wonky window after paying $900 to repair my window since I bought my TI 4 years ago, including a $400 job to replace the regulator less than three years ago. I had given up on repairing it after it failed again last summer but I sent your post to my mechanic to see if it could work in my case.
He sent the following reply (see below). I don't think the motor failed (it was a brand new part three years ago). The window would kind of jump or drop quickly when I tried to open it so I just stopped using it because i was afraid it would fall into the door as it had before.
Does it sound like your method would work in my case? I'm not interested in attempting another fix without some reasonable assurance it will work.
The reply:
We can get your vehicle in for Tuesday.* However,*I wanted to mention that this issue may be different than the one that you're currently dealing with.* If i remember correctly, your window motor isn't working at all.* This website is dealing with an issue where the window comes off after closing the door.* As for a price, we'll have to see what the problem is and how long it take for us to conduct the repair.***
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They're setting you up to try and screw you. I wouldn't take my car back to them for anything, let alone a window repair. I've outlined the problem from start to finish and no, the cause isn't caused by slamming the door. The problem is that BMW used a poor lubricant that turns into paste after several years which in combination with the fact they used the same regulator on our cars that they use on sedans which have a smaller/lighter window than our heavier "coupe sized" windows. The lubricant hardens into a paste, causes the sliders to bind up in the track, regulator arms bend, balls pop out of the sliders, window goes off track, bends the vertical guide, the end. So many people are quick to believe a shop that tells them they need to replace a regulator or some expensive repair, then all they do is put the balls back in the sliders and send you on your way so it could happen again a few miles down the road. If you don't remove the sticky old grease, replace it with fresh non hardening grease, re-align the vertical guides, straighten the regulator arms and replace the sliders if they're worn, you'll just end up having to do redo it again and again. The more times you take the door panel off, the weaker the clips get and eventually you'll be repairing that too. The most often overlooked step is re-aligning the vertical guides. This is why I recommend slamming the door to see if the window stays in the tracks. The guys at that shop don't know what they're talking about. If they can't make sense of the detailed tutorial I posted at the begining of this thread, then they shouldn't be working on BMW's.