#11. Now that we have new hoses, reservoir and filter in place, I decided to flush it again. I was unsure of how much crap I was flushing into the system when I poured clean fluid into the nasty old reservoir. Do it just like you did before, including plugging one of the reservoir holes.
#12. Attach the rack return line to the reservoir, and top off the fluid. Start the car and run the steering lock-to-lock numerous times. Check for leaks. The level will drop a bit, so you'll need to keep adding more fluid. If I read the BMW procedure correctly, start the car, remove the fluid cap, and just
set it in place to get an accurate reading. It should be between the two graduations.
Ahh, all back together:
#13. Go for a careful test drive, including lock-to-lock turns. Check the level again, and recheck for leaks.
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Random notes:
- Keep ATF away from your belts as much as possible. ATF is nasty stuff, and I'm sure it'll only do harm to the belts.
- Prepared to get messy with this project. It's not a very clean process.
- I'd recommend buying the BMW worm-drive hose clamps (part #2 on the realoem.com diagram) It seems to be designed to avoid damage to the rubber hoses vs. the hardware store clamps. Essentially the BMW clamps don't have sharp edges.
- Reason #Eleventy-Billion not to buy an automatic transmission; The transmission cooler lines run right by the pump supply hose. They will get in your way, and they will piss you off.
- I'm sick of typing "reservoir"