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Old 09-09-2007, 03:39 AM   #3
tastade
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Marion, IA
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Thanks, that is a nice write up. I wish I photographed mine. I just did much of the same thing on my 1995 M42 while changing the starter. The sensors are a royal pain in the butt to unhook/and re-hook. Be sure to label some of them well, although it is somewhat clear where each one goes (use tape because permanent marker rubs off if you have grease on your fingers). I think it took me 15 hours to remove/reinstall the air intakes, all new hoses and misc, and the starter.

Quote:
The flange in between the manifold (which also houses the crankcase vent valve) oddly has coolant running through it.
You don't have to take this off until you remove the lower manifold. The entire flange with coolant hoses attached (remove the breather hose from the PCV valve) will slide between the intake runners by the sensor "squid". The reason I call it a squid will become apparent when you have it taken off. I think the M44 has a better design for the squid that will let you disconnect it from the main wiring harness. For the flange, on mine, one hose from the flange attaches to the tubular plastic piece on the side of the block, and the other hose attaches to the head somewhere below the intake, if memory serves.

I think there was 9 or 10 sensors and the starter and alternator wires attached to the squid, including the reverse light switch, which had me fooled. I couldn't find what was holding the squid in place. I think all the connectors are: 2 ping sensors low in the block, 2 sensors just under the intake, 2 running from a harness around the front of the engine, 1 going by the alternator, 1 going to a vacuum valve by the charcoal canister, 1 to the reverse light switch, and 1 to the ICV. Then the alternator has a positive cables and a control signal wire, and the starter has two large positive cables, and two small control signal cables connected to it (grounds comes from the engine block). I think those are all the wires on the squid that I recall.

Also the two fuel lines going to the fuel rails make it a pain to remove the lower intake manifold as it hangs up when you try to pull it over them. You might remove the rubber hoses from them to make it easier. Also, remove the fuel injectors carefully so you don't chip them. You don't need to remove the clips from them if you don't want, they all pop in as a unit attached to the fuel rail (unbolt the fuel rail and pull all 4 off at once).

Finally, it makes it easier to connect/disconnect wires from the squid if you remove all the bolts holding the lower intake in place so you can lift it a few inches to gain more clearance. There are 5 or so bolts on the head side, mostly easily accessible, and two large bolts holding it to a bracket above the alternator. If you can't disconnect the squid from the main harness, you will likely have to remove the vent piece for the cabin air filters (see the knowledge base articles) to release the main engine wiring harness, and disconnect all the connectors by the fuse box and pull the harness out across the engine to the battery side of the car so it is out of the way. Those circular connectors have neat little clips that hold them to the body by the fuse box. Very easy to remove. If you do need to remove the harness (i.e. your squid doesn't detach from the main harness), I attached a drawing.

I should point out again, that I have the M42, and it appears your vehicle is slightly different under the intake, the squid might be much easier to remove in yours. I see your Idle Control valve (attaches to the air lines going to the fuel injectors) is in a different location towards the front of the engine. Mine was attached directly to the top of the squid, and I just see the air hose for yours going off to the side where you have it disconnected.
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