Just did this job myself. Same as marslc1 except I didn't replace hose clamps. I cleaned every clamp and bolt thoroughly. A few things I learned and should share.
I was quoted $2,700 for this job. I did it all for $900 using 100% BMW factory parts and cleaning everything within an inch of its life. New wires, every hose, radiator, cabin filters, injectors cleaned and balanced. Taking my time to make sure everything went back exactly the way it came off I took the time and care no shop - no matter how good - can match. The economics of it just aren't there. Take advantage of the fact you can put in a few extra hours to do a perfect job.
I had a running list of each part I took off, how many bolts/nuts/clips it produced and what size wrench(es) were needed to take it off. Those fastiners went into a baggie with a post-it note with a brief description. I had some 3 pages of notes and 30 Ziploc sandwich bags. Plus a bunch of cellphone pictures.
What was tough:
1) I took off the lower intake manifold. There are two 'stays' that support the manifold. You can't see the rear one, but it's there with a 13mm bolt just like the front one.
2) Wire loom through the lower intake. You should label and take a picture of each connector. There are only like 6, but if you don't know which is which, it can get hairy.
3) Maneuvering around with the fuel rail. Fasten fuel feed line and return line before bolting the rail down with the 2 10mm bolts.
4) Parts. Autohausaz doesn't carry the oil squirter gasket (in the valve cover). You'll have to get that from Pelican or the dealer. Parts prices: I found local dealers wanting Bugatti prices for parts. Either list went through the roof or I just got the Royal treatment. I was quoted $4.50 ea for the valve cover bolt seals from Seattle BMW and Bellevue BMW. I went to autohausaz.com for 95% of the parts. Although I should have ordered up FelPro for the valve cover 'set' (which included all 15 bolt seals plus the squirter. FelPro is one brand I trust implicitly.
Valve cover must come off to get the rear pipe. You'll be working the lower bolt blind.
If you don't know first-hand the condition of the oil filter housing gasket and seal - just replace them. I had to go back 'for seconds' as that thing leaked like a sieve after I had started it up checking for leaks.
Alternator fixed nuts can be driven out in-place a few mms to make for easy alternator refitting. They'll snug back when you tighten the alternator.
Car runs perfectly. Thanks for this forum for the awesome pointers! |