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Old 01-06-2021, 02:50 AM   #9
StoneWheelRacing
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Upstate NY USA
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Default Cluster Swap

I put a '97 or a bit newer M cluster into a '98 E36/5 manual. The M part number came up on Realoem as available between 8/97 -2007 so most likely its a '98 model year cluster and getting lucky for once it matches the Ti's model year. Obviously the cluster is not used after '99 but I'm assuming parts were still made for it up to ~2007.

I know some say not but I had to pull the steering wheel off. DISCLAIMER: I am a factory trained mechanic and have owned my own repair shops. I don't recommend anyone who has no experience working around airbags attempt to pull the wheel and airbag. Again, do this at your own risk.

I did not want to unhook the battery so I pulled the airbag fuse (#42?) and removed the bag standing to the side to be safe in case of static electricity or some other anomaly. Two Torx bolts hold it on. Two electrical plugs, yellow with two pins and a single spade on the back. Both pull off but do it gently and be sure ground yourself somehow while doing so. Don't touch the pins.

I then gently removed the white plastic steering wheel warning plate with a small flat screwdriver so not to break it. It has four small dowels that push into the rubber of the steering wheel. Note how the air bag wires go through or around it first.

I removed the steering wheel bolt, wasn't to tight, normal right hand threads. The wheel and stub shaft were already marked for alignment. The clock work plugs can be tough but the black plug had a push tab release and the white plug just pulled apart.

There are two black recessed Torx screws at the top of the cluster facing down. Remove those and push in at the bottom of the cluster. It will flip forward. The three plugs, black, blue and white, have a flip type lock mechanism similar to the DME plug. Inspect them with a bright light and you'll see the part of the plug mold itself that needs to be depressed so the retainer part can hinge upward. Don't pry on the retainer part at all, just push the small "serrated" tabs centered in between the flipping retainer and it'll start to release, then you can pry on it. Its hard to describe and sorry but I didn't take pictures.

I tried to swap the mileage chip but the alignment lugs were mirror image of each other so I had to use the M chip. The Ti has 130k and the new cluster has 120k so I expected a tamper light. I read that Ti's don't have tamper lights but expected the M cluster to have one and for it to turn on.

I discovered a few light bulbs out, i.e. fog light indicator, temp gauge illumination bulb. Swapped those and plugged the cluster in again and started the car. The mpg gauge buried itself to 0 really fast. This concerned me so I traced the circuit. As a surprise, even thought the Tis didn't have mpg gauges this car is wired for it. See earlier posts below for details. I spoke to Kevin in OK and he said the gauge buries itself all the way to the right upon start up until he gets a speed speed signal. Thanks Kevin.

I ran the car on jacks to get a speed signal (salty roads). The mpg gauge settled at about the 40 mark. All dash and idiot lights work properly. As expected the tach reads about 400 RPMs low. The mileage tamper light is out (so far). The mpg gauge doesn't move off 40 when I rev the engine it but I think, like the tach, its expecting to see a signal for a 6 cylinder from the DME.

I had thought to drop the steering column away from the dash as opposed to pulling the steering wheel. If any of you have replaced a toilet seat you'll know why I couldn't drop it.

Hope this helps somebody.
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