If any bearing destructed the motor should be torn completely down.
You don't know where the shrapnel went. Likely if you ran it after
bearing went the motor is a core at best.... These are very very close tolerance engines.
I'd pull the motor and stop messing with it so you can maybe save the block and crank.
Its not worth it in my opinion to try and remove the crank
(It has to be removed to polish the bearing surface) with the
engine in the car, you still would have to pull the timing chain
and unbolt the transmission. I've never seen a engine with a
main bearing gone without a badly damaged/broken crank.
The bearing cannot "get out" without being ground to small bits.
I have on rare occasions seen a stretched rod cause knocking
that comes and goes with different speeds. But the head comes off to
attempt that repair, once yoru in that deep the gasket set is too
expensive to NOT do a basic rebuild at a minimum. If your that tight
on cash, just go find the lowest mile motor you can and do a r&r.
These are starting to show up in U-pullit yards in my part of the country.
Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpatstone  video - good idea. will-do.
had another thought: one of the crank bearings self-destructed and now resides in the oil pan. so, low rpms, little stress on crank, it flexes without that bearing but not enough to impact the block. at 3000 rpm, it's flopping around, sometimes hitting, sometimes not. 3500, hits solidly ever time. higher rpms, seems to go away a little, maybe because it's hitting the block sooner.
if that were the case, I'd need that part of the crank ground, and a new set of crank bearings. can this be done with the motor in the car? in terms of hours, easier to pull the motor? |