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**xxxJohnBoyxxx** · 07-23-2011, 11:24 AM

Are you saying that the current "$1050" kit is an updated version that actually is plug and play? The kit I have sitting here is not the same one posted in this thread and those pictures are outdates.
Maybe the sellers pics are outdated? I caught many inconsistencies in the one picture:

- the manifold has what appears to be a v-band W/G flange yet the 'gate in the pic has tial 38 style 2 bolt flange. Manifold is a 44mm v-band waste gate and the kit includes the 44mm waste gate

- there is no W/G dump pictured (personally I would go for an internally gated turbo or if it were external I would plumb it back) Good luck with that. Another member tried a internal wastegate turbo and it would not fit. It is a very tight fit with just the small turbo. If you add the internal wastegate you have a turbo that won't fit. This is the reason the OBX manifold is a external waste gate style

- the piping is all just universal bends, this is OK for some - as you stated it is easy to cut, although not everyone wants to do this and even less have a bead roller. The two 180deg U-bends are cut in the center to make them both short 90deg pipes and two 90deg pipes need to be trimmed. No bead roller needed, I use hair spray on the hose connection and they are good to 25psi so far

- the fuel reg and gauges are just plain garbage. Not what this kit has. This kit has a OEM steer column top replacement with clip in gauge clusters that are trick, it is high quality.

In all reality, I would probably pitch the gauges, turbo timer, fuel reg, boost controller and most of the lines and fittings, not only that but I would never use the gaskets supplied - I would probably be better off to just buy the manifold and then build my own piping and downpipe..I would pitch the tyrbo timer, RRFPR, Boost controller for a in cabin Gizmo), The down pipe is high quality 3" and a perfect fit so I would keep it and bush it down to your exhaust size which stock would be 2 1/4". I only use the manifole to head gasket and all other connections are machine so I use RTV Copper with no failures. I used the gaskets and they blew in 5,000 miles (Learned from that)

But for a person who is interested in a kit they can bolt on in their driveway in a few hours this kit does not look good at all. Wrong picture, does not represent the kit well

What I am talking about building is:

- A simple complete yet effective kit that will bolt right on without cutting or making anything. Excellent go for it

- Has basic fuel management that will support 4-6PSI (approx) My opinion is you need more boost. 4-6psi is not going to do $hit. Take it to 10psi

- Also would have the ability to run more boost on a built motor with upgraded engine management. Proven no need to upgrade motor to add boost up to 15psi. There is a stock M44 in Canada running 20psi currently. You will need engine management

The basic idea that I have is to do something that will provide a boost in power but not so much that people will risk blowing motors, there is simply no excuse for that these days with low boost systems - if you have a wideband installed to monitor your AFR and a careful ear to monitor knock there should be no problem. I and most others use the LM-2 and log our runs so we know exactly what is going on for tuning. I even log knock sensors so I can see the slightest ping, it is so sensitive it shows gear shifts on the ping sensor log

I agree that programming the ECU to run larger injectors etc. is a great way to tune the car, but for low boost simplicity rules. Well we will just have to disagree on this. You will have drivability issues (pulsing) with part throttle boost situations.

Best of luck. I'm not trying to shoot you down on everything just trying to share knowledge learned from a few years of R&D

07-23-2011, 11:24 AM	#15
xxxJohnBoyxxx Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 iTrader: (1) Photo Gallery	Are you saying that the current "$1050" kit is an updated version that actually is plug and play? The kit I have sitting here is not the same one posted in this thread and those pictures are outdates. Maybe the sellers pics are outdated? I caught many inconsistencies in the one picture: - the manifold has what appears to be a v-band W/G flange yet the 'gate in the pic has tial 38 style 2 bolt flange. Manifold is a 44mm v-band waste gate and the kit includes the 44mm waste gate - there is no W/G dump pictured (personally I would go for an internally gated turbo or if it were external I would plumb it back) Good luck with that. Another member tried a internal wastegate turbo and it would not fit. It is a very tight fit with just the small turbo. If you add the internal wastegate you have a turbo that won't fit. This is the reason the OBX manifold is a external waste gate style - the piping is all just universal bends, this is OK for some - as you stated it is easy to cut, although not everyone wants to do this and even less have a bead roller. The two 180deg U-bends are cut in the center to make them both short 90deg pipes and two 90deg pipes need to be trimmed. No bead roller needed, I use hair spray on the hose connection and they are good to 25psi so far - the fuel reg and gauges are just plain garbage. Not what this kit has. This kit has a OEM steer column top replacement with clip in gauge clusters that are trick, it is high quality. In all reality, I would probably pitch the gauges, turbo timer, fuel reg, boost controller and most of the lines and fittings, not only that but I would never use the gaskets supplied - I would probably be better off to just buy the manifold and then build my own piping and downpipe..I would pitch the tyrbo timer, RRFPR, Boost controller for a in cabin Gizmo), The down pipe is high quality 3" and a perfect fit so I would keep it and bush it down to your exhaust size which stock would be 2 1/4". I only use the manifole to head gasket and all other connections are machine so I use RTV Copper with no failures. I used the gaskets and they blew in 5,000 miles (Learned from that) But for a person who is interested in a kit they can bolt on in their driveway in a few hours this kit does not look good at all. Wrong picture, does not represent the kit well What I am talking about building is: - A simple complete yet effective kit that will bolt right on without cutting or making anything. Excellent go for it - Has basic fuel management that will support 4-6PSI (approx) My opinion is you need more boost. 4-6psi is not going to do $hit. Take it to 10psi - Also would have the ability to run more boost on a built motor with upgraded engine management. Proven no need to upgrade motor to add boost up to 15psi. There is a stock M44 in Canada running 20psi currently. You will need engine management The basic idea that I have is to do something that will provide a boost in power but not so much that people will risk blowing motors, there is simply no excuse for that these days with low boost systems - if you have a wideband installed to monitor your AFR and a careful ear to monitor knock there should be no problem. I and most others use the LM-2 and log our runs so we know exactly what is going on for tuning. I even log knock sensors so I can see the slightest ping, it is so sensitive it shows gear shifts on the ping sensor log I agree that programming the ECU to run larger injectors etc. is a great way to tune the car, but for low boost simplicity rules. Well we will just have to disagree on this. You will have drivability issues (pulsing) with part throttle boost situations. Best of luck. I'm not trying to shoot you down on everything just trying to share knowledge learned from a few years of R&D Last edited by xxxJohnBoyxxx; 07-23-2011 at 11:26 AM.