Glad you liked it, Jim.
Since writing it, I have a few additions:
If you put the valve together without using something for the roll pin to keep the two halves from moving with respect to one another, they will move.
You will find that rotating them very slightly one way or the other will make the idle go up or down. This is pretty cool.
You want the idle to be in the right place, though, so that everything works right, no matter the load (lights, wipers, A/C, etc.). With the engine warmed up, try different positions under different load conditions until you seem to have a good compromise - tiny movements can make a fair amount of difference.
When you think you've got the setting right, drive around for a while to be sure, then lock it in. I coated the appropriate surfaces of the outside of my valve with RTV silicone to glue it together.
The engine may take a while to fully settle into its new idle settings.
By a while, I mean months.
Mine hunted and generally had no idle home for at least six months before it settled down. That's a long time.
Sometimes, I'd stop at a light, and it would idle at 800.
Sometimes it'd bumble along at 450.
Sometimes it seemed to like 1500.
There was no predicting it from one moment to another, but it never stalled.
Then, over a period of a month or so, it stabilized.
One day I noticed that it seemed to idle at about 750 all the time, and, looking back, I realized it had been that way for over a week.
It has behaved itself well since then, even with the A/C on.
I assume that the OBD finally learned how the ICV worked, but I really have no idea why it finally calmed down.
All I know is that I was getting ready to fork over cold cash (that I should be spending on tires), and now it looks like I won't have to...
Good luck! |