Hey Guys, Newbie Here
So over the past little while I noticed my clutch starting to slip and pulsate and do a few other funky things. So I knew it was time for a replacement, on Saturday i picked up a LUK Clutch Kit. Removal went kind of slow but i got everything apart and the transmission off. The throwout bearing was well shot, I had little ball bearings fall out of the bell housing as soon as it cracked from the block. Long story short!
I replaced the flywheel bearing, throwout bearing, clutch, and pressure plate reinstalled everything correctly (DOUBLE, TRIPLE Checked it) clutch was in the right direction the works.
Got everything bolted and fastened on. got into the top started the car and had an engage problem. Later found out after a little trouble shooting and the piston flying out of the slave cylinder it needed replaced. (It didn't fly in the bell-housing that would be a bad thing
)
Last night I replaced the slave cylinder and the clutch petal feels 120% better then before.
Here is my problem now. When in gear and engaging the clutch the car (on a hoist) works great. Once under load (on ground) it has a hard time taking off and you hear a loud chatter sound. My dad, a friend, and I think we have diagnosed it properly to a warped / grove-ed Flywheel-Pressure Plate.
A replacement up here in Canada is ~$900.00 i told my dad he almost had a heart attack lol.
I was looking for
A) A second opinion on our diagnosis.
B) Can the OEM Flywheel Pressure Plate be turned down like the old days? If so what is the minimum thickness required.
Extra Notes;
I checked the flywheel before we replaced everything here are my findings
NO CRACKS
Could not see noticeable warp-age (doesn't mean there was none)
Noticed only to touch small waves/groves file moving my finger across the grain of the pressure plate. (upon further inspection these "groves" could not be seen only felt)
This flywheel is original with 367,000km
Thank you in advance, and look forward to hearing everyones suggestions/opinions
-CoDeR