Quote:
Originally Posted by cev12  Does anyone know a ballpark estimate on the cost of the full swap? |
No, as it depends on so many factors, including what you consider a "full swap"
Full swap to
me is:
- rear subframe complete
- front suspension complete [these include M brakes in both front and rear of course]
- drive shaft
- transmission [plus M3 slave cylinder and clutch]
- full engine assembly with cooling changes etc. to meet the M3 spec. (all detailed in my manual of course)
Some corners
can be cut here and there; however in my experience, this adds time, which is not free (unless you are unemployed). Such as the diff, which can be assembled from junkyard parts from several mdels of unknown origin and mileage. False economy when you assemble it and find out it has a bearing whine and has to be pulled apart again don't you think?
Where exactly you get your parts, and their condition has a greater impact on the final cost I find. If you get a complete, rear-ended (or t-boned) M3, this can reduce the cost for M3 drive train parts over individual purchase.
Similarly, for the M roadster (or coupe) rear sub frame if hit in the front and without an engine, the rear sub frame can be much cheaper this way versus buying parts. Be wary of side-hit roadsters as the sub frame can get twisted...
This is NOT a cheap swap. In fact, these days it is
much cheaper to buy an E36 M3 and drive it, doing the needed maintanance and nothing more. Gut the interior out, along with sound deadening an have fun with it.
A ti swap IS NOT a "cheap M3"; quite the contrary I'm afraid...