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Old 09-06-2023, 08:24 PM   #28
Ultraviolet
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Join Date: May 2023
Location: Canada
Posts: 23
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Awesome build!! What a great idea using throttle body plates to fit the bypass valve. Let me know if you'd be willing to make an extra set!! If only the HMW kits came that way...
Probably not...my friend specially built those for me..but truthfully some 3mm steel and you can cut your own.

What are you using for the connections between sc outlet and intake manifold? Is that just two 90° abs elbows joined with a silicone coupler? And the elbows are threaded onto the plates?

I used ABS just for a test to make sure it worked. I am not moving to Stainless steel.
I ordered some 90 degree elbows off Amazon and ground them down to fit and then had them welded together....will have pic next week of the final install.

I have an M44, but using the M42 intake manifold and injectors. I took the PCV plate out and put the upper and lower manifold halves back together without it, one less plug to worry about that way.
That is a nice way do do it.

Are you still using the disa valve? One of the reasons I wanted to use the M42 manifold was so I could gut the disa easily, while keeping manifold sealed up. I remember researching something that the long runners are only beneficial to NA at higher rpm, whereas being under boost at higher rpm, we want shortest, least restrictive path as possible, but not sure how significant that impact actually is.

I did not remove any stock items

I swapped to a RHD throttle cable, which gave me a few extra feet, can run throttle all the way up to headlight easily.
Yes a little more length on that cable is nice

I also really struggled with belt alignment, def shredded a few just trying to get it all setup. Not sure if it's the bracket, or the amr housing that doesn't seem to fit properly, but I had to grind bracket out so it would sit flush around the housing.

I did not want to grind mine....nice it worked out for you. We added and removed washers to get it to work.....some of the washers were very thin to get it to stay on.

Also, watch out for those AMR knockoffs! Apparently they use impellers with some type of polymer coating compared to the OEM ones of solid metal. Mine failed after a few hundred miles, impeller coating delaminated, seized up the AMR, shredded my belt and snapped off the idler tensioner. I may have accelerated the failure though, since I was running hotter without a bypass.

This is apparently true. Especially if they say "brand new" so far mine is holding up but it has not had too much milage on it.
To me the bypass valve is essential....it also keeps it from howling at idle

Good luck on your build.
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