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Old 12-11-2009, 12:19 AM   #91
DGWGuitars
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I'd like to add my thanks to all who have posted the fixes on this thread. My mechanic was reluctant to believe that you guys knew you asses from a hole in the ground, but he's the one who's eating his words now. Mine was a broken lever, so he did the epoxy the cable to the broken lever solution. A working heater is a meaningful thing.
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:24 PM   #92
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Assuming everything else is working here is a quick way to check the heater valve located at the firewall. You need two people to do this unless you have really long arms. With the key in the ignition ON position Engine NOT running move the temp selector to full cold and then cycle it just slightly off the full cold position. You will feel a slight detente and while you move the temp selector back and forth the heat valve solenoid will make a clicking noise. This is the valve closing in full cold and opening when out of full cold. Now here is the kicker, even though the solenoid is clicking it does not necessarily mean that the valve is opening. What happened to me was the plunger inside the valve broke so the plunger never opened but the solenoid was still functioning correctly. One way to confirm this is to run the car until it gets hot and select full hot and see if both hoses are hot. If one is cool and you have full hot selected and the solenoid is clicking then replace the valve. The heat valve is energized in the FULL COLD position. So if you have the A/C running or full cold selected most of the time the valve will fail sooner then expected. Living in Florida I always have the Full Cold position. What I have done now is I keep the temp selector just slightly off the full cold position so the valve is not energized.
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Old 02-07-2011, 12:11 AM   #93
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I checked my bowden cable. I dont think it's broke. When I move the control from defrost to vent, the white plast piece with the spring doesnt move. From vent to floor it moves to the right. And from floor to defrost it moves back left. The yellow piece never moves. Any ideas?

I do know that at times, the temp control gauge has been hard to turn for about a 1/2 turn at times.
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Old 05-06-2011, 02:57 PM   #94
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Wow. This thread is really helpful.

I have a heater temp control knob that does sweep w/ resistance, yet little to no heat blowing.

I'm thinking that 1) most - likely the heater valve is not functioning or 2) less likely - there is air -or- a clog in the core somewhere.

I'm going to try first with the heater valve cleaning:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...e-Cleaning.htm

Has anyone done this with good results?
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:20 PM   #95
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My car won't blow any air at all, and the temp gauge stays at coool for most of the time. Any ideas?
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:21 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavogel View Post
My car won't blow any air at all, and the temp gauge stays at coool for most of the time. Any ideas?
I already mentioned 3 possibilities.
First bleed the air out of the cooling system.
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:32 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavogel View Post
My car won't blow any air at all, and the temp gauge stays at coool for most of the time. Any ideas?
If it won't blow any air, the blower motor likely needs to be replaced or at least looked at. If it only blew cold/cool/warm air, your cooling system would likely need bled. If the temp gauge doesn't reach and remain at the 12 o'clock position, your thermostat likely is stuck open. If you replace the thermostat, you might as well replace the water pump since you're going to be opening the coolant loop and the system will NEED to be PROPERLY bled which is a somewhat painstaking process for some.

I'll warn you of two issues that you'll probably run into. First, the water pump will likely break into pieces upon removal. There's two threaded extraction holes on the water pump housing. These holes are pretty much worthless. The idea is that you're supposed to thread bolts into them evenly until they contact the timing case and push the water pump outward. This never works. Usually the water pump housing cracks and you end up scratching your head. The reason the water pump gets stuck is because of the duration it's installed, hundreds of heat cycles and the fact that there's a big fat o-ring holding it in.

The best way to remove a water pump is first, remove the belt. Then remove the pulley. Then remove the mounting bolts. DO NOT PRY OR HAMMER on anything. Doing so can result in a damaged timing cover and your life will become hell. Instead, use a big ass pair of channel lock pliers. Grip the water pump housing firmly. Rotate it side to side while slowly pulling it forward. When it gets close to coming out, use caution as to not let it suddenly give and slam into the radiator.

You can find any part number you'll ever need on realoem.com. getbmwparts.com and pelicanparts.com are the best places to purchase Genuine BMW parts. After you've replaced the thermostat and water pump, it's absolutely critical that you PROPERLY bleed the cooling system of air. Failure to do this will result in air in the system causing vapor-lock. Follow these steps precisely to the letter:

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27983

NEVER allow the engine to overheat. EVER! Not even for a second. If you notice the temp needle above 12 o'clock, Shut the engine off IMMEDIATELY. Failure to do so can result in a blown head gasket or at least a significantly weakened head gasket. Shops generally charge between $1000-2000 to replace a head gasket depending on damage to the head. When a head gasket goes, it usually warps the head and in some cases it may even crack the head. Just make sure you properly bleed the cooling system. Never mix coolants. It's recommended to use BMW coolant, but if you don't know what coolant is in your car, then it's probably best to drain it and start fresh. Always keep an eye on your temperature gauge. Best wishes.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:25 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhombus View Post
So has anyone here actually replaced the whole bowden cable? I think I need to replace mine, but I'm not sure how I can actually do that. I've removed the glove box, lower dash on the driver sside, have the radio out and also the center console around the shift knob, and I don't think I can I can access the area where the cable attaches to the knob.
Hi guys,

Had the same problem. Heat was warm-ish but not toasty. Winters are brutal in Canada.

Thought I could start by first checking for a broken bowden cable then bleed, replace heater valve and what not. Indeed, it was the Bowden cable. God bless you all. This thread saved me time and money. Thank you for sharing.

You can fix it with a thin wire or any of the other DIY suggestions. However, it's easier to just go down to the dealer and buy a new one. In Canada it will cost you $10.99 (Toronto dealership). After taxes etc it comes to ~14 bucks - shipped from Germany. Took about 8 days to get to Toronto.

Just be careful about the part number. You want the Bowden Cable Temperature Control as per RealOEM.com. Part number: 64228367779

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...99&hg=64&fg=20 (third from bottom)

First time around they sent the wrong one so I had to wait another 8 days. Thought I could save someone time and hopefully also contribute a little.

Pictures of broken Bowden cable:

http://i42.tinypic.com/15x4b6f.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/148hmrk.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/259d4xc.jpg

The radio/knob panel I put up just for size comparison. It took me around an hour to get it done. I went in through the radio. It's more difficult trying to reach in from the glove compartment.


Cheers guys

Last edited by Zolf; 12-20-2011 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:32 PM   #99
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i wonder wether Ti-s have any cabin filters near glovebox or elsewhere?
i changed the cabin filter on my subaru forester and the heater became much hotter
might be same issue on my compact )))
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Old 12-24-2011, 08:23 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volgapower View Post
i wonder wether Ti-s have any cabin filters near glovebox or elsewhere?
i changed the cabin filter on my subaru forester and the heater became much hotter
might be same issue on my compact )))
Yes, they're accessed through the engine compartment towards the top of the firewall.


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Old 12-24-2011, 08:31 PM   #101
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thank you cooljess
this means no filters under the glovebox?
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:56 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volgapower
thank you cooljess
this means no filters under the glovebox?
Correct.
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Old 12-25-2011, 08:51 PM   #103
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today i cleaned the filters with air pressure
the incoming air stream became hot (seems no air was not passing through)
tomorrow im going to buy new filters )))

Last edited by volgapower; 12-26-2011 at 05:18 AM.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:45 AM   #104
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Maybe start with installing a new thermostat/pressure test (for any coolant leaks)/coolant flush, cheap and easy to do (or get done). If that doesn't help, then start diagnosing and go from there.
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Old 12-26-2011, 02:05 AM   #105
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I would get an Bentley manual for the e-36 and get started. If you can install an radio, you can pull a glove box, etc. You'll learn a bunch about your car and improve your mechanical skills at the same time. Good luck!
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