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Old 02-21-2007, 04:28 PM   #16
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Yes. I did the race versions. No, I did not do any reinforcements. I had the same thought as you.

When/if i get more power I'll seriously consider getting an m-coupe subframe or doing major reinforcement to what I currently have. But as it stands I don't have anywhere near the power that you have. If I already had a supercharger or thought I would do a swap anytime soon or in the near future I would have done both a A cross reinforcement and the toe reinforcement that is on the E30 M3 tuning website with the roll center information.

I couldn't find any subframe reinforcement kits though. So for the cost I had to seriously look at if it was needed with an almost stock m42. i didn't think it was. I have the reinforcement plates for the front subframe but I've not had them installed yet. I'll probably also wait until either a new engine goes in, or this one gets rebuilt to do that.
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohaughn View Post
If I already had a supercharger or thought I would do a swap anytime soon or in the near future I would have done both a A cross reinforcement and the toe reinforcement that is on the E30 M3 tuning website with the roll center information.
Do you have a link for this? I spend far too much time on e36 websites, I guess I should start paying attention to the e30s now too.
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:29 PM   #18
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The main homepage- http://e30m3performance.com/index.html

The semi-trailing arm reinforcement article- http://e30m3performance.com/now_show...arms/index.htm

The only question I couldn't find an answer to is if the m-coupe trailing arm is a thicker gauge metal and stronger because of that. if that was the case I kind of felt reinforcing a Ti semi-trailing arm would be nice, but not as nice as just getting the M-coupe trailing arm.
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:26 PM   #19
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I got mine from IE. I have the red subframe bushings and the black trailing arm bushings. Not sure of the condition of your differential bushing, but you can get a powerflex racing bushing for that.
Did the RED subrame bushings fit without modification? How harsh are they? My car is still a daily more than a track car at this point.
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:32 PM   #20
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If you order the right part the red ones will fit without modification. I ordered the wrong part. My mechanic had already started cutting into them before I realized it was the wrong part, and at that point my only option was to modify what I had to make it work. I also could not really ask the shop in question to leave my car half apart in his bay for three or four days while I waited for the new part to be delivered from CA.

Had the part not already been all scratched up from being forced into the subframe and the metal insert cut IE would have happily exchanged them for the right part.

It is essentially the same part. The E30 bushing the center rod is a little longer, and the TI bushing needs a shallow indentation in the top. It look 10 minutes to modify them and Jeff told me exactly how to do it.
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:40 PM   #21
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This is what I'm buying:

From Ireland Engineering (http://www.bmw2002.com/)
Rear Bushing Kit - urethane - e30rearbush - Rear Trailing Arm Urethane Bushing Kit -E30, Z3, E36ti - $52.00


Rear Subframe Mounts -Urethane for Z3&Ti - Z3urethanerear - Z3/E36ti - Urethane Rear Subframe Mounts - $50.00 x 2


And from Bimmerworld (http://www.bimmerworld.com/)
Powerflex E30/Z3 Rear Differential Bushing - Remove flex from the stock rear cover bushing. - $59.99


For those of you running the Powerflex diff bushing, are you running the street or track version?
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohaughn View Post
If you order the right part the red ones will fit without modification. I ordered the wrong part. My mechanic had already started cutting into them before I realized it was the wrong part, and at that point my only option was to modify what I had to make it work. I also could not really ask the shop in question to leave my car half apart in his bay for three or four days while I waited for the new part to be delivered from CA.

Had the part not already been all scratched up from being forced into the subframe and the metal insert cut IE would have happily exchanged them for the right part.

It is essentially the same part. The E30 bushing the center rod is a little longer, and the TI bushing needs a shallow indentation in the top. It look 10 minutes to modify them and Jeff told me exactly how to do it.
What is the part number for the correct part? I don't see the red race versions listed under the e36 section, only the green version for the e36ti.

EDIT: Nevermind, just read this post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by mohaughn View Post
Why not get them from IE directly for 110$. They are not on the website, you just call and ask for them. Same price as the E30 race version.

84 is cheaper than what IE charges for the street version.
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:02 PM   #23
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For those of you running the Powerflex diff bushing, are you running the street or track version?
Track. It is a black bushing with two metal plates that clamp on either side when you tighten down the bolt. My car has a lot of noise and vibration, but it is also completely stripped. All in all my car was somewhat quieter with all new suspension and bushings than it was with the old bushing. I think solid may be the proper term as I have a lot more vibration. Just not a lot of rattles like it used to be.

I would not want to use it as a daily driver.
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohaughn View Post
Track. It is a black bushing with two metal plates that clamp on either side when you tighten down the bolt. My car has a lot of noise and vibration, but it is also completely stripped. All in all my car was somewhat quieter with all new suspension and bushings than it was with the old bushing. I think solid may be the proper term as I have a lot more vibration. Just not a lot of rattles like it used to be.

I would not want to use it as a daily driver.
Do you think the vibrations are more from the subframe bushings or the differential bushings?
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:39 PM   #25
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The worst vibration I have is coming from the transmission mounts. All of th rear bushings were done at the same time. So I'm not really sure where the vibrations in the rear are coming from. If I had to guess if I had rubber transmissions mounts I don't think the vibration in my car would be that bad.
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
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The worst vibration I have is coming from the transmission mounts. All of th rear bushings were done at the same time. So I'm not really sure where the vibrations in the rear are coming from. If I had to guess if I had rubber transmissions mounts I don't think the vibration in my car would be that bad.
Are you running different motor mounts? I drove Cali-ti's car with the urethane motor mounts and it was pretty bad. The entire dash would shake up and down if you dropped the RPMs below 1k when taking off. Kinda funny to see, but yeah, not good for daily driving.
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:46 AM   #27
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Any Update? I'm thinking about doing this, too
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:41 AM   #28
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Any Update? I'm thinking about doing this, too
Soon...I'm waiting for our widebody RX-7 to get finished up. We started it today!! AEM standalone engine management FTW!!
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Old 09-06-2007, 01:35 AM   #29
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The Ireland Engineering kit is installed and I just picked up the car from Big Bear Tire were it got a 4 wheel alignment. These guys know there sh!t. They do all the autox alignments in the area and I know why. Very impressed.

The guy that did my alignment (Jason) said the rear adjustment was a pain. He said the Ireland Engineering subframe bushing is VERY close to the bolts so it was a b!tch to turn the nuts. I knew it was tight, I cut the mounts so it would be easier, guess I didn't cut enough.

I'll upload the specs soon, my camera is charging now.

With the Ireland Engineering kit, HR Sports and Bilstein Sports, with 17" DS-2 wheels it is possible to get all of the specs even with the factory specs.

THIS IS HUGE. NO MORE EXCESSIVE NEGATIVE TOE! Only 2.5* of negative camber in the rear! Horray!! Tires will last much longer now.


Oh yeah, it handles like the rear wheels are on the ground again.
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Old 11-19-2007, 03:36 AM   #30
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Sorry about the long long delay. Here are my alignment specs after installing the Ireland Engineering rear camber and toe kit:



Before:



Camber and Toe plates welded in place:


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