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Old 07-11-2002, 02:21 PM   #31
myred318i
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Jim's objectives on this project are well documented to this point, (OBD II v. OBD I). I'm really anxious to hear about the final product, and what his d'ruthers are if he had to do it over again... in other words, would you repeat again or sell your car and take the proceeds along with the $$ you spent on the swap and just buy an M3? I'm sure there is some satisfaction in building a "332ti", not to mention the added benefit of better power/weight ratio of the ti car.

Anyway... Jim I appreciate you keeping us updated on your progress, as it shows how much time, effort, and planning really goes into a project like this. I'll be curious about how long it takes when you actually park the car... tear it down, and have it back on the street again.. reinCARnated (sorry, bad joke)

And by all means... Please take many many pics, before, during, and after. I wanna see them!!!
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Old 07-11-2002, 02:48 PM   #32
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Well, as far as time goes, I've seen an OBD-I swap done in one weekend...

I'm starting on the 20th around 10:00am, and have until 6:00pm the 28th to be completely done with the project, and my hands washed. This is why there is so much research and planning. I can't simply park the car and wait for all the bugs to "shake-out". (in spite of the fact that I have two other cars...) It has to be a done deal in one week. The first drive will be Sunday evening, about 175 miles back to Long Island for work. Not much room for error here...

Costs so far are over $7300.00 (this does not include the original car or special tools). There will be no labor cost attached to this job once the final total is calculated. Anyone interested in NOT doing it themselves should keep this in mind.

I have seen '95 E36 M3's for under 20k. So, an M3 would most likely be cheaper when it's all said and done. I've got my eye out for an original (unmolested) E36 M3 lightweight. Trouble is, they top 30k. So, in the mean time, I'll have nearly the same level of performance in a less conspicuous package, that I can actually drive and enjoy, rather than simply admiring in my garage...

...Hondas beware...

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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
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Old 07-13-2002, 05:07 PM   #33
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Jim,
My nephew and I put a NEW 3.2 in a '95. (yea, bass ackwards) He wanted something different. The EWS system did present a problem. Had to do a fuel pump work around. Have you solved the EWS / DME incompatability? BTW the way, we stayed with the stock diff. as it is much lighter that the E36 and had the 3.45 ratio. Dropping the clutch at 3500 doesn't hurt the diff., but it exploded the output shafts. (Trust me, don't let your neighbor drive your 332ti. He was the clutch dropper). Too busy to do a write up as I'm doing a complete overhaul on my '99 ti to a track car, but you can see som pic's at http://www.bmwracefan.com/index.html .
It's the black one. Haven't even had time to add the rest of the pics for my '99.

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Old 07-15-2002, 12:29 PM   #34
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I think you are right. He should have got a complete wiring harness and ECU from a 1995. it would have been MUCH easier (and this is what I would have done if that was MY car)

Anyway, the car will have to go to the dealer for module allignment for the EWS/DME. This is the only way around it.

My car is a 1998 (same as my engine), so I don't forsee any other "hardware" issues.

I am planning to exchange the entire rear suspension/brakes with that from an M roadster/Coupe`, which will include the differential and half-shafts. I want to keep the ti gear ratio, or perhaps a bit lower (numerically higher). For now, it will stay as-is. (I'm broke!!)

No one else will drive the car. I may be crazy, but I'm not dumb...

By the way, if you want to easily smoke the tires, replace the flywheel with a lighter weight one. Dumping the clutch is not good in any case. He could have easily blown up the tranny rather than the half-shaft...

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Old 08-06-2002, 05:13 PM   #35
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OK everyone, it's done!!!

This is one SICK car! I can see why the factory did not build it...

I still have a few details to work out, since the motor is from an M Roadster, the A/C compressor is different than the M3. That should be fixed up this week.

It runs like a top! Just putting around town, you'd never guess there were 250hp under the hood (thanks to Dinan software which came with the motor and a lightweight flywheel), it's a total sleeper! (Hondas beware!!)

No way to make the traction control work in the near future. Just have to keep smoking those Michelins...

More updates as they happen....

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Old 08-06-2002, 06:57 PM   #36
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I WANT PICS!!! .... please..
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Old 08-07-2002, 01:18 AM   #37
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I have to scan them in. I have a roll from the instalation, but a lot of underhood details (mainly with the wiring) have changed since they were shot. I'll have to get some new ones.

Not much to see. The real detail photos are reserved for my instruction packet...

Pop the hood of an M3. That's what it looks like, with a battery in the ti location! A couple of primer marks on the right strut tower from removing the coil pack mounts are the only clue...

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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
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Old 08-09-2002, 09:35 AM   #38
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DougZ,
any places to get the Bimmer Mag online? (i.e. scans) would save me the hassle of ordering and waiting..


I'm looking to do the M3 swap too..
but the OBD-I VS II thing problems are bugging me too.. Found some 95 and 96 318ti..
I think for the simplicity and ease the 95 OBD-I is the way to go.. ?

where's all this great OBD-I info..
I find nothing but bits an pieces..
no full solid how to out there?
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Old 08-09-2002, 02:53 PM   #39
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I had the same problem. The OBD-I swap is the way to go, if all you care about is going fast. There is more info on that than the OBD-II (I think I'm the only person with that information, but it does not seem likely)...

I had a HELL of a time getting info for the OBD-II swap. EVERYONE has done the OBD-I swap. A friend of mine has a 330ti: 1995 obd-I motor, wiring and ECU in a 1997 ti. It was just made into an OBD-I car.

Bottom line: if you don't have a car yet, get a 1995. Get either motor (3.0 or 3.2) but get the 1995 3.0 wiring harness and ECU complete from the donor M3. The OBD-I swap is much easier (and you won't need to tow it to the dealer when it's all done).

There are details (not many) in the Bimmer write-up (I have the original Mag.). It's a fun thing to read, but I'm not sure how much use it will be. If you go with the 3.2l motor and 3.0l wiring, it's usefull, because they give some helpfull tricks with the wiring harness and oil dip-stick mount. If you stick with the 3.0l motor and wiring, I don't think you need the magazine's info. I ran into a few fairly major problems along the way that I did not hear about from anyone I spoke to (except for a small mention from Ben Liaw). The use of the M3 transmission may eliminate this problem, and it may not. I kept the ti 'tranny in my car to lower cost a bit.

It's not impossible (obviously), but it's not a "walk in the park" either. I have a great deal of experience doing engine swaps and fabrication, and it was helpfull, for sure...

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Old 09-04-2002, 01:34 PM   #40
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Latest update:

The instalation manual is now over 15 pages. I'm up to the part where the new motor is fitted to the car.

I have been traveling quite a bit for work, so I have not been able to devote the time i'd like to to it.

I will keep you posted here of the progress.

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Old 10-03-2002, 04:51 PM   #41
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Hey Jim how is the install coming along. Keep us updated.
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Old 10-22-2002, 02:04 AM   #42
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Well, it is running great. I have an issue with cold starting (more accurately "cold moving"), where after it's good and cold it shudders and bogs as you try to move. After a little while it's fine.

I had the dealer put it on the computer, and the said the running losses solonoid was disconnected (lie) and it should be fine. It still has the problem.

BMW has upgraded software for just this problem. If I have it installed (no charge) I loose my DINAN stage 1 software. So, I'm living with it for the moment. It is possible that the lower back pressure of my modified M3 exhaust vs. the more restrictive M Roadster exhaust combined with the lightweight flywheel are causing problems. The stage 1 DINAN software I have is for the Roadster, with no mods to exhaust or certinally not to flywheel weight. Stage 2 or 3 may be a better choice, but I will wait until I get the M3GT ram-air snorkel that pulls air from the brake duct, and possibly the Supersprint exhaust. This may simulate the "cone" and exhaust more closely that DINAN sells. Perhaps a K&N or other free-flowing filter as well.

Only other problem: Instrument cluster. I had a used one installed, and it is intermittent. No problem. I ordered a brand new cluster from BMW. Supposedly, the ECU does not see the new cluster at all, so it cannot be coded. Based on track record from that dealer, I'm going to bring it to a dealer here on Long Island and see if they can get it to work. So, I have no idea how much I'm exceeding the speed limit by. I AM sure I'm exceeding it. Funny thing, the lights all work. The gas gage does not, but the low fuel light does. When it comes on, I get gas. The Odometer still works too.

Little bugs, nothing major. It runs prefectly once warmed up, goes like hell, and you would never even know when it's idling at the traffic light... Perfect!

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Old 10-22-2002, 05:02 PM   #43
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jim, my name is lorenzo, and i'm new to this board. i am going to do the same swap as you. my car is a 96 ti, and i got my hands on a 99 m3 motor, trans, front suspension, ecu(motor and tranny), engine harness, all accessories on engine, insrument cluster, etc.etc. basically the whole front of the car minus the sheetmetal. i've read all the posts in this topic, and i see that you seem to know what your talking about. before i engage into this project i want to have as much info as i possibly can. i notice that you live in long island, well so do i. i am very interested in your wiring book that you are talking about. and i also would like to maybe see your car, so i can see how it all goes in. oh and what dealership have you been going to, cuz i feel like they're all sheisters sometimes. anyway, i would greatly appreciate any help, and if you feel like meeting sometime that would be great.
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Old 10-23-2002, 10:10 PM   #44
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Well, I'm traveling again for work- two more weeks away- but if you want to contact me Thursday (Friday I'm gone) try 516-338-2418 (work number) and maybe we can meet somewhere around Westbury / Wantaugh area.

I actually live in CT but work in Westbury. I'm here for the week, and in CT for the weekends. I think after I get back from this trip I will have to park the ti for the winter, so see if you can get a hold of me soon. (It's already snowing in Vermont...)

Good luck with your project!
J!m

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Old 11-07-2002, 05:48 AM   #45
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Jim,

Are you back from vacation yet? let me know when and we'll meet/talk and i can get a better understanding of what exactly to do with all the wiring. If you'd be willing to come down to my house and check everything out that would be great to.

here's a link with pics from the install so far:http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...threadid=54644
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