Head gasket go boom .....

[blowin 4]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

With those last pictures. The scavenger pump looks like the good one withe brass gears. Is that a RRFPR you have in the pictures?

yup its a brass gears $145 on ebay 3.2 GPM. its a basic FPR i upgraded my fuel rail to the m 44 rail .

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by blowin 4

yup its a brass gears $145 on ebay 3.2 GPM. its a basic FPR i upgraded my fuel rail to the m 44 rail .

Cool Im installing the exact same scavenger and glad to see you went to a adjustable regulator. What fuel pressure you running. I'm at 50psi with no vacuum or boost control to change the pressure, makes it easier to tune.

Looking good

[blowin 4]

prolab FPR $98 im run 40 psi on 72lbs injectors . just got bad news wont get my apr studs till the 16th wth ordered them on the 31st this ebay seller wont get my buss anymore.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by blowin 4

prolab FPR $98 im run 40 psi on 72lbs injectors . just got bad news wont get my apr studs till the 16th wth ordered them on the 31st this ebay seller wont get my buss anymore.

Dont fel bad I cut up my cam sensor trigger wheel so it was a 1 trigger per 2 crank revolution for my standalone. Still doesn't work right and only Germany has he trigger wheel for $11.95 but 3 weeks to get it so I can return it to stock. My car has been down since the 14th of December. Back-fired so loud it made my Flowmaster almost round. I'm cruizing a KIA station-wagon now. Just got all the parts today so I can put it together for the weekend

[pdxmotorhead]

FYI cheap scavenger pumps... If you do some web searching for dirt tracks close to you, almost all of them have swap meets in the spring. Most dry sump pumps are stacked units, you can seperate the stack or use all three stages.. but its a good way to pick up a dry sump system on the cheap. Most vendors will service the pump for < 250 and you have a new pump. Cheers


Dave

[blowin 4]

[QUOTE=xxxJohnBoyxxx;343571]Cool Im installing the exact same scavenger and glad to see you went to a adjustable regulator. What fuel pressure you running. I'm at 50psi with no vacuum or boost control to change the pressure, makes it easier to tune.


no vacuum or boost lines i thought once u set it at 40 psi with vacuum it went about 10 psi less then once there was no vacumm it stay at an even 40 regaurdless of boost increase . rrfpr go up as bost gos up right.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Yes RRFPR goes up with boost to cram the fuel through the injectors

[blowin 4]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

Yes RRFPR goes up with boost to cram the fuel through the injectors

so if your not running vacuum line your set up stays at 50 regardless

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

FYI cheap scavenger pumps... If you do some web searching for dirt tracks close to you, almost all of them have swap meets in the spring. Most dry sump pumps are stacked units, you can seperate the stack or use all three stages.. but its a good way to pick up a dry sump system on the cheap. Most vendors will service the pump for < 250 and you have a new pump. Cheers


Dave

Dave how do you feel about running a dry sump on the street? Would it be ok for 25K on the belt and pump or is this just strickly racing trailer car stuff? I just don't know enough. I fully understand how it works and the benifets but is it streetable with A/C and all, driving 1,500 miles and not breaking?

Thanks, John S

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by blowin 4

so if your not running vacuum line your set up stays at 50 regardless

Yes always 50psi at idle or under full boost. Makes tuning much easier. You can choose 40psi or whatever but at 50psi my 80# injectors are flowinf good

[blowin 4]

ok cool ill see how things go.....80# injectors 50 psi damn when i ran 25 psi and stock 43.5 psi fpr it was over kill i didnt even need to play with wot setting much . yr going to run 30 psi aren't ya lol.

[pdxmotorhead]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

Dave how do you feel about running a dry sump on the street? Would it be ok for 25K on the belt and pump or is this just strickly racing trailer car stuff? I just don't know enough. I fully understand how it works and the benifets but is it streetable with A/C and all, driving 1,500 miles and not breaking?

Thanks, John S

Well, almost every endurance car ever made is dry sumped, dakar, baja, nascar, and you'd be going easy on it, by comparison... In the big picture I doubt it would be a big deal in your normal maintenance load.

The one on a sprint car I take care of is about 4 years old its never been torn down, and when you run a v8 on methanol the oil gets nasty.

My 69 911 was dry sump (factory) and other than being gear driven they seem to last forever.

The pump is a gerotor exactly like a stock oil pump and is driven by a gilmer belt. You get the belts at napa, I dont know how long they last I've never worn one out, Same for the pulleys..

Besides, when have you guys had one of these magic turbo engines last longer than a couple years anyway!!! LOLOL

[blowin 4]

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

Well, almost every endurance car ever made is dry sumped, dakar, baja, nascar, and you'd be going easy on it, by comparison... In the big picture I doubt it would be a big deal in your normal maintenance load.

The one on a sprint car I take care of is about 4 years old its never been torn down, and when you run a v8 on methanol the oil gets nasty.

My 69 911 was dry sump (factory) and other than being gear driven they seem to last forever.

The pump is a gerotor exactly like a stock oil pump and is driven by a gilmer belt. You get the belts at napa, I dont know how long they last I've never worn one out, Same for the pulleys..

Besides, when have you guys had one of these magic turbo engines last longer than a couple years anyway!!! LOLOL

nice just got my bolts in and it seems like the bolt that snapped cross treaded the block strange thing is any stock bolt treads freely but any arp mid way getts stuck going to run a clean tap on the thread wish me luck.

[pdxmotorhead]

ARP uses rolled threads, so the point of the thread is usually a tick fat. I always use a bottoming tap to chase the threads, not a standard primary tap.

Cheers.
Dave

[blowin 4]

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

ARP uses rolled threads, so the point of the thread is usually a tick fat. I always use a bottoming tap to chase the threads, not a standard primary tap.

Cheers.
Dave

Thanks dave turn's out it was scraping up against the dowel that MM used with a slit down the side and it lost a little shape at the bottom end all good thank god. taking my sweet time should fire it up friday night.