Thanks for the thoughts on the radiators guys. I just test-fit my radiator, and it looks like I'll have to find the M3 radiator supports I took off the donor car. The ti ones are just a touch too narrow.
Got a bit of work done in the front end today, since I'm waiting on a bushing tool for the rear subframe.
-Re-checked all the connections under the intake manifold -Bolted down the intake manifold -Installed the rear harness support -Installed coil-packs -Tightened down various fasteners -Checked radiator fit
Getting close to being ready to fire. I want to get a chain tensioner and some ground straps that are missing, so those will take a day or two to get in. If I work on the car tomorrow, it will be time to install the throttle body and final coolant lines, and possibly throw on the radiator.
Those of you that have relocated your batteries, what did you do for a ground point to tie the negative battery terminal to? I've got half a mind to just weld a small bolt to the frame.
I just test-fit my radiator, and it looks like I'll have to find the M3 radiator supports I took off the donor car. The ti ones are just a touch too narrow.
Got some more done on the car tonight. Took the time to get the rear subframe bushings out. I don't have a removal tool, so I went with the torch method. For those of you who aren't familiar with the method, here are the only tools you'll need:
A torch, a hammer, and a punch of some kind.
You don't try to burn out the bushing directly, you just want to heat the sides, like so:
As it heats up, you'll start to hear popping and sizzling. That's about the time to start driving it out with the punch and hammer. My initial punch was too slender, and it just drove out the core that you see in the first picture. Turns out the perfect size punch is a 1.5" galvanized steel pipe. Get the threaded kind and it will actually thread into the bushing housing, aligning it perfectly. Once the outside was re-heated, a few hammer smacks drove the outer casing right out.
Once the complete bushing is removed, use your torch to burn-off the excess rubber. (The outer casing is actually still in the frame in this shot, but it's the best rubber-torching one I've got)
With the subframe out of the car, it's time to clean it up and find the rust-spots.
Cleaned up and ready for paint, along with one of the powerflex bushings test-fit in one side.
Learned that all you need for subframe and trailing arm bushing removal is a bit of pipe, an end-cap, a threaded rod, and some nuts. All for less than $10.
Accomplishments for the day:
Drove out all of the trailing arm bushings:
Here are all the original bushings along with their replacements (Powerflex Subframe and AKG Eccentric RTAB). In the foreground are the 3 items you need to remove all these bushings (minus a torch and hammer). 1.5" steel pipe, end-cap, and 7/16 threaded rod.
With the bushings out, it was time to clean up the rusty trailing arms. It was mostly surface stuff, but I figured it was better to hit it with some preventative rustoleum so long as it was accessible. Not going for looks, just trying to stem the salt-induced tide.
Tomorrow should have the subframe paint done and the passenger trailing arm cleaned up. On Saturday/Sunday I've got a buddy coming in (Brent of Clownshoe Motorsports in Dallas) and the plan is to have the car running and ready for the exhaust shop by Monday. *fingers crossed*
Last edited by PhotoMotion; 03-26-2010 at 06:10 AM.
Took another crack at things this evening, but ran into a snag.
I have AKG Delrin eccentric E30 rear trailing arm bushings. Picked them up from a guy on Bimmerforums. I don't know if they ever had instructions with them, but safe to say I don't have any. I checked over the AKG motorsports site, but they didn't have anything. I've even emailed AKG, but I doubt they'll respond on the weekend.
Here's the rub. I've used a c-clamp to push 1 half of the delrin bushing into place. I did not lube the surface against the trailing arm itself as I believe that should stay fixed, and the bushing (and the arm) should rotate around the center metal shaft.
So it goes in and everything looks good:
Except, when you try to put the shaft in there, it doesn't fit. The bushing has been compressed against the walls of the trailing arm, and the opening for the shaft has shrunk to the point that it does not want to go in. I'm reluctant to hammer/c-clamp/threaded rod it into place for risk of damaging the bushing, and shouldn't this metal sleeve be able to rotate inside the delrin so it it won't lose it's eccentric adjustment? If it's clamped in there too hard, the delrin (and the trailing arm) may rotate the eccentric out of alignment. (Yes, I did put white lithium grease on the shaft when I initially tried to fit the sleeve in there)
Did anyone else run into this issue when installing their AKGs?
Hi Robert, I have AKG bushings also, but mine are grey. I installed the shaft slightly and pushed the bushings into the arms and over the shaft at the same time. I have other bushings I will probably replace the AKG's with eventually, they came from bimmerbum on ebay, steel shafts and the material seems more pliable..
Oh I see you have the eccentric kind. I avoided that kind because I have seen images of the bushings obviously in a bind. (That's with the subframe slotted/tabbed for more adjustment, with a stock subframe you probably be fine, but there's not as much adjustment)
I want to make a whole new subframe or at least modify one where each side is on a moveable bracket and you can use whatever bushings you want and keep the mounting points inline.
Nice writeup on torching the subframe bushings out and nice trailing arm tool. I bought the one from AKG, works great, but looks like your 1.5" pipe works great too!
BTW I think the sensor in the master cylinder is a pedal position sensor.. used for asc .. abs? I installed the M3 one in case I convert to the 4 channel ABS and it's required or something. Otherwise I think I'll just remove the sensor and plug the hole.
The engine running is a great step, but there's plenty to do yet.
The AKG trailing arm bushes are still giving some trouble. Learned that:
1. I needed bigger and stronger washers to press the things in. (The ones I used cupped badly and deformed the end of the 2 bushings I've installed.) 2. An impact gun, even on the lowest setting will make delrin act like silly putty. (pic coming) 3. The best way to get a jammed sleeve out of silly-putty-deformed-delrin is an air-hammer (which I had bought that morning because it was on sale, and "I just might need one some day") 4. The best way to return deformed delrin to it original shape is slow heat with a torch.
We're trying the idea of freezing the last bushings to see if that will make them fit better. Then it will be time to install the rear stainless lines, hook the trailing arms into the subframe, lift the whole thing into place, install the diff, make sure the clutch works properly, install the driveshaft, and drive it away!
A lot has gone on today, but the most important thing to note is:
It's alive!!!!!!!!
The motor has cranked over and fired successfully!!! It sounds AWESOME with just the bare headers! She sounds healthy and ready to run!!!
I know that feeling well! Congrats on getting it running, and I, too, love how these engines sound at first start-up with just headers... Sweet!
I have not had to do any rear suspension work yet, so I have no pointers or tricks to offer, sorry...
__________________ James 95 active w/leather interior and sport interior conversion, Vaders, full M-Tech exterior conversion. Now m50 swapped* Eibach sway bars, D2 Coilovers, Depo's w/AE's, blacked-out sides and grills, LeatherZ console and door armrests, 1 series starter button mod, and custom finished Style 5's <--- in this color! Named "Roddy": *M50 6 cyl. swap with fan delete, S50 cams and chip, AFE stage 2 intake, M3 clutch and 11.5 lb Fidanza flywheel, 3.15LSD, battery relocated to rear and complete custom exhaust. Sweet! 97 318ti sport, Alaska Blue, Contours, coilovers, Dove Vaders and custom black/grey interior named "Max" 95 318ti Active in Cosmos, S50 swap in progress... named "Pit" SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE! Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW!
Sorry no updates for a while, the AKG/trailing arm stuff ended up being a nightmare. Man will I have a write-up on that! Was going to have it roll out under its own power Tuesday night, but realized that the diff/driveshaft plan wasn't going to work (There's another write-up in that too!). Had to do a total re-think. Trying to source a 4-bolt 328/M3 driveshaft now, and really hope to have the car running around the block (loud as hell with no exhaust) by the end of this weekend.
Will post more once the (hopefully) last, long, hard push is done.
Ok, driveshaft problem is holding things up. Just tried a "custom" one that was "meant for a ti with a swap". It was a solid 2 inches too long. I've tried a bunch of different stuff and nothing wants to work. I need an over-all length of 58 and 1/8 inches, which equates to 1476.375mm. Shorter than any shaft listed on realoem except the M-Coupe, which is crazy-short. I'm going to have to go with a custom shaft if I can't make something work.
The length I need is 25" from the trans flange to the center of the support bearing, and 33 and 1/8" from the bearing to the diff flange. I've got a 25" front half of an M3 shaft, but it's the 6-bolt style. I've got the correct length of rear 318ti shaft in the 4 bolt style. The 4 bolt and 6 bolt styles are completely incompatible and will have to be chopped and welded on to combine them. If I could find an M3 or 328 front shaft, I think I'd be good, but so far no luck.
For those researching this issue for your swap, be aware that the drive-shaft discussions online are woefully full of half-truths and out-right inaccuracies preached as gospel (I guess what isn't?). For example, "Just use an M3 shaft and your ti shaft, they'll bolt right up!", but that's only if both shafts are the 4-bolt style.
It's so frustrating being so close while being unable to get this last, theoretically simple part to line up! The search continues...
) 
*M50 6 cyl. swap with fan delete, S50 cams and chip, AFE stage 2 intake, M3 clutch and 11.5 lb Fidanza flywheel, 3.15LSD, battery relocated to rear and complete custom exhaust. Sweet! 
97 318ti sport, Alaska Blue, Contours, coilovers, Dove Vaders and custom black/grey interior named "Max" 95 318ti Active in Cosmos, S50 swap in progress... named "Pit" SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE! Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW! 
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