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Old 04-04-2009, 12:02 AM   #46
wolferj-RIP
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Yeah!!!

Oh, wait, do you know how do drive a stick?

jk...
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Old 04-04-2009, 12:03 AM   #47
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nice, I remember at work we were sent two brand new starters that were bad, I guess it happens
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Old 04-04-2009, 12:03 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolferj View Post
Yeah!!!

Oh, wait, do you know how do drive a stick?

jk...
Well actually It's been many years!
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Old 04-04-2009, 01:40 AM   #49
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GOOD!
Makes me feel much better about the whole swap!... I was beginning to dread the idea...
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Old 04-04-2009, 03:33 AM   #50
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Here's some pictures of the pressure plate. The part on the left under the "48" is the surface where it mounts to the flywheel. The main part of the picture is the friction surface. The yardstick is laid flat to the friction surface and you can see the gap on the first and not on the second. Two of the six mating surfaces had no gap and the other four had the gap. The new pressure plate had equal gaps on all six points.



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Old 06-04-2009, 01:38 AM   #51
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lets say i want to do this swap wouldi have to replace everything you did or could i just grab the neccesary parts like the tranny driveshaft oem clutch and a ltw flywheel new lsd and all the shift linkage pedals and clucth master/slave. likei dont know stick so iwant to stick with the clutch from the donor car i get expecially if its still eally good and use it to learn to drive a stick. but i also want to save a decent amount of money as my funds are getting lower!
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Old 06-05-2009, 06:14 PM   #52
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You certainly could use the old clutch from the junkyard, as well as all the old parts from the junkyard. I decided to use a lot of new parts, especially those that are difficult to get at (clutch, release lever, master, etc....) because I plan to drive this car for another 70,000 miles or so.
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Old 06-12-2009, 03:26 PM   #53
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did you ever get the cruise control to work?
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Old 06-12-2009, 05:09 PM   #54
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Cirrus,
is it necessary to change the rear engine seal when doing the swap? If so could you tell me what parts I need and where to get them, thanks!....
Will be getting most of the parts in a couple of weeks and I need to know which extra little things I need for the job. Besides a new LuK Rep-Set clutch and a short shift kit from eBay!....
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Old 06-12-2009, 05:19 PM   #55
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I don't have cruise control, so thankfully I didn't have to worry about that. I think there are instructions on how to get that working in the Bimmerforums E36 transmission swap thread.

You don't need to change the rear main seal at all. I just thought it was a good idea while everything was out. If you've never dealt with these type of seals, I'd suggest buying two or three in case you wreck one putting it in. As for parts, you just need the seal itself. Part #11142249533 It's about $23.

There's also the theory of leaving a good part alone, which I understand. If there's no evidence of a leak, and you don't plan on keeping the car for more than a few years, it probably wouldn't hurt to just leave it alone.
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:23 AM   #56
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I MUST DO THIS! I WAS TALKING TO MY MECHANIC TODAY ABOUT HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST AND THE PROCEDURE. I THINK THIS IS A SIGN!!
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Old 10-02-2012, 01:58 AM   #57
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so happy i spend a good 2 hours looking for this and found it. and a hour of reading and understanding later. im pumped.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:30 PM   #58
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Not sure how active this thread is but, does it shift like a manual bmw 318(t)i would?
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:53 AM   #59
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Did you have to modify any components with the computer at all? I'm trying to do all my research before I start. I got all the parts from a guy that removed it from his 95 ti with 90k so everything should be "plug and play" hopefully. I'm only going to replace to the pilot bearing as everything seems to be in good working order.
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