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Old 12-22-2009, 06:36 PM   #1
Dusty_Hale
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Default Cooling system took a dump!

Long story short, broken radiator, replaced thermostat, replaced coolant hoses, and a cooling fan that works again. The question:

Is there a specific type of coolant that these engines take? Is it green, yellow, or orange? I ask because there was an orangeish green paste built up in the old radiator, and there was evidence of coolants being mixed. No chocolate milkshakes out of the car, so no blown head gaskets, cracked blocks, or effed up cylinder heads.
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Old 12-22-2009, 06:45 PM   #2
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use bmw coolant from dealership
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Old 12-22-2009, 06:54 PM   #3
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+1 on the BMW coolant its got some unique additives to help keep things clean and corrosion free and if you surf around I've seen it for almost the same price as Prestone...

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Old 12-23-2009, 12:08 AM   #4
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I used orange Prestone with no problems, but I agree with everyone else. BMW coolant is only a little more expensive. For me it wasn't cost, I just hate going to the dealer. No need to worry though, Prestone isn't going to kill your engine or anything. If you do use it, I recommend using the orange stuff. It's made for newer engines that consist of different alloys where electrolysis can occur.

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Old 12-23-2009, 01:59 AM   #5
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Xerex G-05 is a cheaper alternative to the BMW stuff. Apparently it's almost the same, if not the exact same stuff (expect color) as the BMW stuff.
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Old 12-23-2009, 05:26 AM   #6
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The color is supposed to represent which glycol compound its made with.

(My spelling sucks...)
Propelene Glychol - Blue Green
Ethelyne Glycol - Yellow Green

There are a couple more.

I'm considering switching mine to water free coolant, so I can run 0 PSI cooling.

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Old 12-24-2009, 12:12 AM   #7
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Thanks for the input guys! This makes things a bit easier since I can't access the electronic database because the school is closed down for Christmas.
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Old 12-31-2009, 09:19 PM   #8
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Default Hi Guys

What's the nominal operating temperature of the coolant?

Mine is only reaching 77C.
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Old 01-01-2010, 12:01 AM   #9
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These cars are notorious for weak thermostats that stick, I am now changing mine every other year just because...

The temp should be straight up on the gauge in the dash. I never checked to see what that really is, new project for today....

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Old 01-01-2010, 03:35 AM   #10
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Okay, thanks, Dave. I should note that I'm measuring coolant temps by Scangauge II device which gets data over canbus (OBD port) from ECU. I've noted that thermostats only last about 8-9 seasons IME with VW's (Mahle, Bosch, Hengst IIRC). It's also been my experience (with VW Tdi diesels) that failed t-stats reduce city fuel economy 15% and hwy economy 30% roughly.

Do you know the t-stat's rated opening/regulating temp?

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Old 01-01-2010, 05:58 AM   #11
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Not positive but I think it was 195, It definitely was the running cold problem on mine.

Was a EASY job, I didn't even remove the hoses. Took me like 25 minutes.

Mine is a 1995 soo I have a M42 not a M44 but I don't think that affects much for this...


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Old 01-01-2010, 06:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead View Post
Mine is a 1995 soo I have a M42 not a M44 but I don't think that affects much for this...
on an M44 you have to replace the whole housing, it's all one piece
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:34 AM   #13
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Okay, good. I bought t-stat in housing. Also buying both O2 sensors--expensive.
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Lockard View Post
Okay, good. I bought t-stat in housing. Also buying both O2 sensors--expensive.
Wait, what year is your car? If it's '95, you have a M42 and you need the thermostat w/o the housing. If it's '96+, you have an M44 and need the plastic housing that has the thermostat built into it. Also if it's '95, you only have one o2 sensor. If it's '96+ you'll need two o2 sensors.

If you have a '96 or newer, buy the following parts:
Thermostat w/housing-Part# 11531743017---$47.75 @ pelicanparts.com
pre-cat o2 sensor-Part# 11781247406-------$64.00 @ pelicanparts.com
post-cat o2 sensor-Part# 11781739845------$120.25 @ pelicanparts.com

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Old 01-01-2010, 09:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiFreak View Post
on an M44 you have to replace the whole housing, it's all one piece
I meant temperature wise,

I would guess most M42/M44 engines run in a similar range.

On the M44 with the integrated housing unit, I don't think you have
many choices either?

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