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Old 09-24-2016, 01:37 PM   #16
bazar01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul somlo View Post
Bazar - when you put the belt back on, did you just pull the pin on the tensioner, or did you use a t-50 bit to rotate ccw, then pull the pin?

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Installed the tensioner with the pin still installed then put the belt on and around the tensioner pulley.
Once the belt is on correctly around all pulleys, I relieved the tensioner CCW with a torx bit and pulled the locking pin.
No way you can pull the pin on the tensioner without relieving the tension.

When I bought the Gates tensioner, the image showed a hex bolt but it came in with the torx head bolt. Oh well. I will not be touching it again until another 100k miles. I will deal with it then.

Oh, don't forget the bolt is left hand thread. Righty loosey, lefty tighty
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1996 Ti 280k miles and still going....
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2001 Burban, 240k miles
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Last edited by bazar01; 09-24-2016 at 01:56 PM. Reason: left hand thread bolt
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Old 09-24-2016, 09:02 PM   #17
paul somlo
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Originally Posted by bazar01 View Post
When I bought the Gates tensioner, the image showed a hex bolt but it came in with the torx head bolt. Oh well. I will not be touching it again until another 100k miles. I will deal with it then.

Oh, don't forget the bolt is left hand thread. Righty loosey, lefty tighty
Yes, I saw the images of the Gates part on Rockauto.com. I wouldn't be surprised if all vendors have gone to the torx head, at this point. The torx bolt head is actually marked "LH" with a rotational arrow for emphasis.

The problem is that, while the tensioner may well last 100k miles, there are many other items, as you're aware of, that will require the belt to come off in order to service. Belt changes, PS pump, water pump, alternator, lower timing cover gaskets, etc.. And with 231k on the clock, this being my daily driver, I remove that belt on what seems to be a fairly regular basis. Given my initial experience and other's experiences, I see trouble down the road.

The pulley on the new tensioner is slightly different than the one on the old tensioner. The center hub appears to be more recessed, especially on the backside. More notable, is that the center recess has been reduced in diameter. It appears that the old style hex cap bolt will still fit, but I don't believe that the 16mm chrome socket will fit the new recess. If the old pulley doesn't fit the new tensioner, we're stuck with the torx head. And I'm not seeing replacement pulleys, other than those available for the old tensioner (same PN as the idler pulley). And all this supposes that the torx head is the same thread as the old hex head.

By the way, I did remove the pulley bolt from the old tensioner, it's M10-1.5x24 LH hex cap head w/flange, 10.9 strength.

If I can find someone who has replaced a tensioner with the torx head pulley bolt, and is willing to do some tear down and take measurements, I could lay this to rest.

Paul
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Old 09-24-2016, 11:41 PM   #18
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Just came across this post: http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/131...Belt-Tensioner

It appears that the bolt thread may be the same. Still, I'm thinking that the pulley recess ID got smaller. He doesn't say how he got the torx head bolt out the 1st time, when he didn't have the "tool".
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Old 09-25-2016, 03:46 PM   #19
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For just $39 for a Gates tensioner, I will just get a new one when it comes time the torx bolt gets stripped. You can even change the torx head to a hex head before you install it.
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1996 Ti 280k miles and still going....
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Old 09-25-2016, 04:28 PM   #20
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You can even change the torx head to a hex head before you install it.
If you still have the old tensioner, you'll want to salvage the hex head bolt from it - I looked up that LH fastener on Mcmaster-Carr; they're $23 each.
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:38 AM   #21
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I ca get a left hand M10 x 1.5 x 25mm cap screw from a local nuts and bolts store for way less than that. You can also get them from ebay for $6.

I was surprised the pulley bearing on the old tensioner was quiet.
It was actually the rubbing pivot point and the tensioner spring that was producing the mechanical chirp.
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1996 Ti 280k miles and still going....
1993 964 - holding on to this one
2001 Burban, 240k miles
2018 Suburban Z71

Last edited by bazar01; 09-26-2016 at 11:34 AM. Reason: left hand
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Old 01-31-2017, 08:50 AM   #22
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I went ahead and swapped out the torx head fastener for the original hex head bolt. I was putting the belt back on after a lengthy repair, and it became apparent that I would need three hands - one to lever the breaker bar, one to manipulate the belt, and one to keep the T50 torx bit engaged with the fastener - it just tends to cam out of the torx head. I don't know if it's the fastener or the bit I'm using - I used a Lisle brand bit, maybe a different manufacturer would fit tighter. But I don't have to search for long to find out that I'm not alone.

Both fasteners are 10x1.5 LH, but the pulley design has changed. The new pulley has a standard bearing molded into it, I'm guessing a cost reduction over the old pulley w/offset flange. The original hex head fastener doesn't allow for as much thread engagement, but it appears to be adequate. The new tensioner has a raised portion that registers the pulley, which precludes use of the original style pulley with the offset flange. And although the original style pulley is still available, as it's used as the idler, I haven't been able to find the new style pulley anywhere online. It appears that the entire tensioner will need to be replaced when the pulley starts making noise.

By the way, the torx fastener is a "trilobular" design - it has three lobes that actually form the thread as they turn. I needed a large impact wrench to remove it, and when it came out, there was a fair amount of galling involved, as INA didn't use any lubricant on the threads. The original fastener threaded right in, despite the messy female threads.

In the picture below, you can see how the original fastener's flange head rests on the inner race of the new pulley's bearing.
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