Sneaky hidden fuel injection plan

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I'm planning to fabricate a hidden fuel cell in my spare tire location on my 318is. Going to put a 8 gallon tank in the spare tire location and run a separate fuel pump with VP 110 in the tank.

I'm doing this so I can run 93 octane for my daily driving up to 17psi boost. I do a lot of daily driving as you all know.

With the flip of a switch the stock fuel system will shut down and activate the dedicated second fuel system running the VP 110.

If all works out I should be able to drive the car as my daily driver on the 93 octane at 15psi which is pretty good. Then when needed I can flip the switch to the secondary fuel system shutting down the stock fuel system and using the VP-110 then just push the Gizzmo button to one of my 6 boost settings depending on how much power I need for the situation. On the secondary system I plan to crank the boost to 30psi with no worries about detonation. I would be able to remove the meth system which I currently use and is really just a bandage for running 93 octane at high boost levels. The car runs much better on 110 octane at high boost and the meth system off. Filling my tank with 110 to drive around town and only using the high boost setting less then 1% of the time is a total waste of money. Hell I might even go for 35-40psi of boost if all goes well. My motor is currently built for 500hp continuous with my rods being the weak link rated at 500hp continuous duty. Obviously the rods should be able to handle short bursts of over 500hp but why risk destroying the motor by getting greedy, it is what it is with 26K+ miles on it so far and I think 500hp from a I-4 would be just right for a super sleeper street car.

Note: I will add Nitrous if needed to reach my goal if I can't make it with boost alone, hell I might just run lower boost and a 150 shot of "Juice" with a fogger nozzle wet system hidden and plumbed into the back of the intake out of eyesight.


PS - To put the power to the pavement I will use Hoosier front wheel dirt track tires @ 7-10psi. They hook almost as good as slicks and I can pick them up used for cheap at the dirt track since most of the guys that are in the points race change out tires every few races leaving a very nice sleeper tire that hook way better then any DOT street tires. Only issue with these tires are they "chunk" in weather below 40 degrees which we rarely have in Florida.

Well enough talk, time to "walk the walk". Updates and pictures when I start the project.

[teen ti]

definitely subscribing to this one, looking forward to seeing how it turns out

[98318ti]

Gonna be awesome. Standing by for more details.

[teetime4one]

I love this car! i just want to ride in it again when these mods are in effect. SUBSCRIBED

[trikzta]

I would love to ride it lol being like 4 hours away and never even seen the car 😱I should be ashamed maybe some day ill boost mine

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Well I emptied the tank and ran straight VP 110 in the car this weekend. The car did not run very well. Excellent idle but definately down on power. I added some pump gas to lower the octane and it ran much better.

Issue is I'm pegging the MAF sensor at 20psi and then around 23-24psi the engine detonated with multiple misfires and goes into limp mode. I'm farily confident this is being caused by the MAF sensor being pegged at 5 volts feedback. I also found #1 sparkplug hole full of oil so I need a valve cover gasket replace to fix that.

Odd this is 1st and 2nd gear I can boost 25psi no problem but when I load it in 3rd or 4th gear and hit the high boost is when the MAF error comes on with multiple misfires. Also the AFR goes well over 16 when the MAF is no longer able to meter the amount of air going through it.

Anyone got some ideas of how to solve this MAF issue. Larger MAF like the 3.5" or is there a aftermarket MAF or maybeI have just reached the best I can do with the stock DME with modded code. I might need to go stand alone.

Jim from Metric told me to run a stock DME with timing changed for boost then setup a second standalone to only handle the boost. So stock motor on DME then when boost hits it still runs the stock DME but the standalone secondary boost system would handle injecting fuel for the boost. He said I could put a large injector or two in the top or bottom intake manifold. He stated this would let the engine run like a totally stock BMW and when under boost the standalone would handle the extra fuel needed and could be totally adjustable.

Midnight Tuning ~ Barrie. It's been a while since we talked about my car so if you're reading hit me on MSN or FB. I would really like your input. I will most likely start a new thread on this fueling issue at high boost. It's like I need the tune for 15psi that you have me on and then a swap tune for 25-30psi on the fly with a solution for the MAF if we decide to keep the system working off boost enrichment from MAF readings. Any input by anyone is appreaciated. I'm in a point where I don't know what it best for a daily driver and the amount of boost I'm trying to run.

John Smith

[m44lee]

what maf you running at the mo?

i know the euro m3 maf is bigger than the us m3 maf as i mistakenly bought one after reading us threads about the right maf for the tt dasc stage 3 map
i can give it a measure if its any help to you?

[zoner]

Your projects never cease to amaze, John- Godspeed, my friend!

[blowin 4]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

I'm planning to fabricate a hidden fuel cell in my spare tire location on my 318is. Going to put a 8 gallon tank in the spare tire location and run a separate fuel pump with VP 110 in the tank.

I'm doing this so I can run 93 octane for my daily driving up to 17psi boost. I do a lot of daily driving as you all know.

With the flip of a switch the stock fuel system will shut down and activate the dedicated second fuel system running the VP 110.

If all works out I should be able to drive the car as my daily driver on the 93 octane at 15psi which is pretty good. Then when needed I can flip the switch to the secondary fuel system shutting down the stock fuel system and using the VP-110 then just push the Gizzmo button to one of my 6 boost settings depending on how much power I need for the situation. On the secondary system I plan to crank the boost to 30psi with no worries about detonation. I would be able to remove the meth system which I currently use and is really just a bandage for running 93 octane at high boost levels. The car runs much better on 110 octane at high boost and the meth system off. Filling my tank with 110 to drive around town and only using the high boost setting less then 1% of the time is a total waste of money. Hell I might even go for 35-40psi of boost if all goes well. My motor is currently built for 500hp continuous with my rods being the weak link rated at 500hp continuous duty. Obviously the rods should be able to handle short bursts of over 500hp but why risk destroying the motor by getting greedy, it is what it is with 26K+ miles on it so far and I think 500hp from a I-4 would be just right for a super sleeper street car.

Note: I will add Nitrous if needed to reach my goal if I can't make it with boost alone, hell I might just run lower boost and a 150 shot of "Juice" with a fogger nozzle wet system hidden and plumbed into the back of the intake out of eyesight.


PS - To put the power to the pavement I will use Hoosier front wheel dirt track tires @ 7-10psi. They hook almost as good as slicks and I can pick them up used for cheap at the dirt track since most of the guys that are in the points race change out tires every few races leaving a very nice sleeper tire that hook way better then any DOT street tires. Only issue with these tires are they "chunk" in weather below 40 degrees which we rarely have in Florida.

Well enough talk, time to "walk the walk". Updates and pictures when I start the project.

i dont know why you always brin up ur rods bein u weakest link i had along talk with MM one day he told me there made off the best material the could handle 700 hp good luck with 35 psi .!!!!!!

[blowin 4]

btw if your not putting dowm 400 whp @ 25 psi on 91pump cum see my turner you have something wrong i just upgraded my intercooler motor mount and a bunch of stuff i will be retuning my car i will have 430 - 435 @ the wheel

[jca]

Could you post some pics of your car? I, for one, would love to see them.
Thanks, John

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by m44lee

what maf you running at the mo?

i know the euro m3 maf is bigger than the us m3 maf as i mistakenly bought one after reading us threads about the right maf for the tt dasc stage 3 map
i can give it a measure if its any help to you?

-


3" US MAF is what I cuurrently run. I'm going standalone and MAP and will conpletely eliminate the MAF within the next week

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by blowin 4

i dont know why you always brin up ur rods bein u weakest link i had along talk with MM one day he told me there made off the best material the could handle 700 hp good luck with 35 psi .!!!!!!

It's over 700hp on a 6-cylinder so do the math and you will see the rods can only handle close to 500hp. I have had the same talk you speak of and Metric will tell you the weakest link in their M4x motors are the rods.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by blowin 4

btw if your not putting dowm 400 whp @ 25 psi on 91pump cum see my turner you have something wrong i just upgraded my intercooler motor mount and a bunch of stuff i will be retuning my car i will have 430 - 435 @ the wheel

Throw up some dyno proof so I'm convinced. Anything over 400hp with this motor is a great acheivement. As far as your tuner if he does Link G4 systems I will need to talk to him

[blowin 4]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

It's over 700hp on a 6-cylinder so do the math and you will see the rods can only handle close to 500hp. I have had the same talk you speak of and Metric will tell you the weakest link in their M4x motors are the rods.

if you grabbed a rod and cut the little end section off and looked straight down the rod you will see a H or an I, that is where they get there names from one is shapped like a H and the other shapped like an I.
generally the I beams can be much lighter and are normally used in factory casting rods and some aftermarket gear although normally with aftermarket I beams they will take them to an A which is similiar to an I only with a much more stout bottom section.
The H beams are normally for high horse power engines and normally only an aftermarket forged or billet rod.
cost is much the same really though for retail anyway in fact some times the I beams are more expensive.

But its not just the shape of the rod you need to know, little end and big end weights are a big factor plus the over all weights and thickness of the rods.
material used and the fasterners used.
most off the shelf aftermarket rods will handle 500+hp so you dont really need to get to picky with them if your in the market for a set.
Just pick a set thats at a good price, a descent name and comes with some arp2000 bolts.
not to sure about commodores but a good set of h beam rods for jap 4 bangers are around 500-600 with arp bolts and a U buet set with arp625's or something can be around 1k
generally commo stuff is much cheaper but thats to give you an idea.

HAPPY THANKS GIVING