 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | | | |  |  |  | |  01-18-2006, 07:05 AM | #1 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 25 |  No heater :-(
Old |  |  | | 01-18-2006, 02:33 PM | #2 | | Moderator Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT! Posts: 3,156 |
So the cables are definately opening the heater valve? If so, and you are absolutely sure the system is completely devoid of air (the most common cause of heat loss), you have to start checking major components, such as the heater core. The core is NOT easy to remove, so you really have to be sure it's not something simple... | | | | | 01-18-2006, 05:19 PM | #3 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Malden, MA Posts: 672 |
This is funny because I seem the have these same problems. The Heater is only blowing luke warm air. I did burp the system, and refilled it with anit-freeze. I have yet to check the cable behind the glove box. I have a question though.......does the rear defroster work off of the heater? Because it seems that now that my heater isn't working properly that the rear defroster isn't working either. __________________
"Power Rules, Smooth is Fast, Late Brake if you HAVE TO, But Always get the Inside Line.......and Fear No One." | | | | | 01-18-2006, 05:35 PM | #4 | | Moderator Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT! Posts: 3,156 |
Juni:
Since the heater is not working, AND the rear defroster is not working, I'd start checking fuses.
The blower and rear resistor are on different fuses, but if the fuse box became contaminated with salt water (salt from roads and a bit of rain for example) the copper will corrode quite quickly!
Any other electrical problems? | | | | | 01-18-2006, 05:52 PM | #5 | | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Virginia Posts: 247 |
How long does it take for you car's heat guage to read in the middle? Mine only takes about 5-7 minutes when it is cold (around freezing)
A month or two ago my thermostat was working but not correctly, it would read in the middle, but took a long time to get there, also on occaision it would read too hot or too cold...at the same time my water pump went out and blew the whole engine...
I would definately get your thermostat checked... __________________ Silver 98 318ti Standard trans, Sport Package: 16" Stock Wheels, Foglamps, Sunroof, Heated Leather Seats, Bilstein performance shocks, OEM Sach's clutch kit, Dunlop SP Sport A2 225/50/16 tires, Alpine CDA 7894, Dual Rockford Fosgate 12" subs, Rockford Fosgate Amp, Leather Armrest, Replaced M44 engine with only 40k on it!
http://www.geocities.com/evalha/bmwsmaller.JPG | | | | | 01-18-2006, 06:08 PM | #6 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Malden, MA Posts: 672 |
Quote: | Originally Posted by J!m Juni:
Since the heater is not working, AND the rear defroster is not working, I'd start checking fuses.
The blower and rear resistor are on different fuses, but if the fuse box became contaminated with salt water (salt from roads and a bit of rain for example) the copper will corrode quite quickly!
Any other electrical problems? | I haven't noticed any other problems, but now that you metion water and corrosion.  It was raining when I was installing my euro headlights over the weekend.......altough I was under a tarp, maybe some water did get in there and mess something up. But if it were a blown fuse for the heater, wouldn't the blower stop working altogether? I mean, it still blows air, its just not hot air. __________________
"Power Rules, Smooth is Fast, Late Brake if you HAVE TO, But Always get the Inside Line.......and Fear No One." | | | | | 01-19-2006, 01:40 AM | #7 | | Moderator Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT! Posts: 3,156 |
yes, I would expect it to stop all together... It can't hurt to check!
I would also 'burp' it again. When you burped it last time, did you heat-cycle it? IE did you let it get up to operating temp, then cool all the way down (with a full overflow) and then check the level again?
It's a pain-in-the-ass procedure to properly burp the ti, but not as bad as bleeding the clutch in an E36... | | | | | 01-19-2006, 01:45 AM | #8 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 25 |
I guess I am going to try to blurb the system 1 more time. I have done it about 3 times. I also pushed on the heater valve tubes which were VERY hot. We will see what happens.....  | | | | | 01-19-2006, 02:10 AM | #9 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Malden, MA Posts: 672 |
Well, to be truthful, when I burped the system, I lossend the "plastic screw" on the top of the radiator, then I revved the engine a bit to get it to come out. Is that the proper way? Or should I wait for it to spill out on its own? Should I have the heat on full blast when I do this? __________________
"Power Rules, Smooth is Fast, Late Brake if you HAVE TO, But Always get the Inside Line.......and Fear No One." | | | | | 01-19-2006, 02:15 AM | #10 | | TRETEN IRGENDEINES ESELS Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 3,687 |
Quote: | Originally Posted by Juni Well, to be truthful, when I burped the system, I lossend the "plastic screw" on the top of the radiator, then I revved the engine a bit to get it to come out. Is that the proper way? Or should I wait for it to spill out on its own? Should I have the heat on full blast when I do this? | I believe you want to turn your heat gage up but keep the blower off and just undo that air release cap and let it idle untill fluid goes down. Reving your engine won't hurt it just speeds the process up. Somebody correct me if i'm wrong. __________________ 98 Avus Blue 318 ti Active
clear outs all around,stealth turning signals,blue led interior lights, 35% tinted windows,K&N air filter, 12" Kenwood Sub, MTX Thunder Amp,Alpine cd changer, Leatherz Armrest,ACS Pedals/Handbrake/FloorMats & Vitesse Tuning Carbon Fiber B-Pillars/CF Spark Plug Cover, New 16" MSW Typer 14 Rims on Goodyear Triple Treds 
www.myspace.com/avusblueti | | | | | 01-19-2006, 04:27 AM | #11 | | aka Stabby Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mead, CO Posts: 5,336 | 
__________________ 1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray
acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts
2002 X5 4.4 Sport Package, 53.5k miles
Current Mods: e46 m3 steering wheel | | | | | 01-19-2006, 11:16 PM | #12 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Malden, MA Posts: 672 |
Okay, so I have Burped the system twice, I found blown fuse for some of the heater fuctions. But now, after I replaced the blown fuse, the heater still doesn't seem to be up to par like before. So I just took out the glove box, but I have no idea what I'm looking for? Any Help? __________________
"Power Rules, Smooth is Fast, Late Brake if you HAVE TO, But Always get the Inside Line.......and Fear No One." | | | | | 01-19-2006, 11:48 PM | #13 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Malden, MA Posts: 672 |
So I found the cable, and it seems to be attached becuase it moves when I turn the knob. So now I'm kinda stumped! Maybe it'll get better tommorow. __________________
"Power Rules, Smooth is Fast, Late Brake if you HAVE TO, But Always get the Inside Line.......and Fear No One." | | | | | 01-20-2006, 12:02 AM | #14 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 25 |
I have done all the same things that you did. Still have not found the problem...let me know if you find out. | | | | | 01-23-2006, 06:56 AM | #15 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 25 |
Quote: | Originally Posted by Juni So I found the cable, and it seems to be attached becuase it moves when I turn the knob. So now I'm kinda stumped! Maybe it'll get better tommorow. | Any luck with the heater??? I still have no heat...I am glade where I am in cali it does not get too cold.  Also could it be the heater core? I Know thats rare but still | | | | | |
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