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Old 06-29-2023, 07:14 PM   #16
Ultraviolet
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Trying to get the video up..will need to change the file.
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Old 06-29-2023, 07:33 PM   #17
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Sorry Folks I can not get the video down to a file size that is allowed on this site. Here is a screenshot of me blipping the throttle. Boost is going to 2 pounds as I am not hitting it hard.

Cheers
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Old 06-29-2023, 07:35 PM   #18
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Trying to work and load at the same time.
Here is the shot
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Old 07-03-2023, 08:53 PM   #19
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Hi All

Well we had a successful Saturday morning including some challenges.

-AMR 500 is fully operational with 4 pounds of boost recorded.
We did some short test pulls mainly rolling from 2000 rpm to 5800-6000 rpm second gear shifting into 3rd.

As mentioned before we live pretty high. This set up at Sea Level would probably be reaching closer to 5 pounds of boost.

-We have been struggling with Belt Alignment. It looks like the SC is not sitting entirely square and is causing issues. We have played with spacers and have got it running within reason.

Here is a link to some videos on my Car Club page

https://www.slowandcurious.net/318ti-supercharger


Moving forward we will continue to do some optimizing / check the Air Fuels and start looking into replacing our ABS piping and Silicone Elbow with metal units.

All in all very we are pleased with the results.

Items of note:

-On the M42 engine I had to file down a little of the Oil Filter Canister as it was catching on the belt

-I replaced all of the Belt Idlers including the one on the Tensioner

-We had to play around a fair amount on alignment to keep the belt square-ish

-We went from a 2150 to a 2161 belt

- I have a rising rate Fuel Regulator but have not installed it yet. We will see what the air / fuels have to say but I am thinking we may not need it.
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Old 07-10-2023, 11:28 AM   #20
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Good morning, Cheers

I really like the way you've done it
The popcorn was definitely worth it.

How much profit are you making?

I'm going to mount it on an M44, but when this engine breaks, I'll do it on an M42, which I'm preparing.

At the moment I'm waiting to receive the kit and buy the AMR500.
I leave you some pictures of the restoration of the parts I'm doing, it's all painted with anti-heat paint.

Can we have direct contact by Whatsapp or Email?

Greetings and thanks in advance!
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Old 07-10-2023, 08:57 PM   #21
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That looks sweet. Nice work. You have great skill to swap engines in and out. Not something I have tried.

I had a chance to run mine on my test loop around the city.
It is very hot here at the moment so I am choosing when to drive it carefully.
Consistency hitting 4 lbs of boost. Closer to sea level this unit would really be something.
In reality I am hitting about 2.5 lbs of boost above stock and it is still making the car way more fun to drive and the noises make me grin.
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Old 07-11-2023, 08:56 AM   #22
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Good morning, Cheers

Thanks for your comments, I've been a mechanic for less than three years, I'm actually a computer scientist.

Here I am at 15m above sea level, I should get a pretty good boost, I want to get the car up to 190hp or so.

Could you show me a more detailed video of the installation and the acceleration in second or third gear?
I am especially interested in knowing the real gain, I have seen several videos where they indicate that the AMR500 tops out on a 2.0 engine.

Again, thank you very much for taking the time to write to me.
Here is my email address: cpenya@lumalta.top

Best regards!
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Old 07-19-2023, 08:25 PM   #23
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Quick update:

Ran the car hard this Saturday on a pretty hot day.
Air / Fuel was tested and it came in with some decent number.s A little lean down low.
We will probably install the rising rate fuel regulator in the fall just to be safe.
I do not have a lead foot so all will be in range 95% of the time.

We did blow the Bypass line off of the Air Filter end. It developed a cut in our soft connection. This caused significant idle issues and stalling. I have since rebuild this end of the line and the car is back up and running well.

At the moment she is in the garage waxed up and looking good waiting for this Saturdays Vintage European Car Show. Will and some pics next week.
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Old 07-24-2023, 11:56 PM   #24
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Hi All

Here is a pic from the Car Show.
Was a loverly day and lots of wonderful cars.

Cheers
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Old 08-16-2023, 12:12 PM   #25
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Looks wonderful there at the show!

Let us know when you want a bigger kit.
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Old 08-16-2023, 10:02 PM   #26
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Thanks Hyde

Currently working on changing out all the plastic pipes with metal.
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Old 09-05-2023, 09:51 PM   #27
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Awesome build!! What a great idea using throttle body plates to fit the bypass valve. Let me know if you'd be willing to make an extra set!! If only the HMW kits came that way...

What are you using for the connections between sc outlet and intake manifold? Is that just two 90 abs elbows joined with a silicone coupler? And the elbows are threaded onto the plates?

I have an M44, but using the M42 intake manifold and injectors. I took the PCV plate out and put the upper and lower manifold halves back together without it, one less plug to worry about that way.

Are you still using the disa valve? One of the reasons I wanted to use the M42 manifold was so I could gut the disa easily, while keeping manifold sealed up. I remember researching something that the long runners are only beneficial to NA at higher rpm, whereas being under boost at higher rpm, we want shortest, least restrictive path as possible, but not sure how significant that impact actually is.

I swapped to a RHD throttle cable, which gave me a few extra feet, can run throttle all the way up to headlight easily.

I also really struggled with belt alignment, def shredded a few just trying to get it all setup. Not sure if it's the bracket, or the amr housing that doesn't seem to fit properly, but I had to grind bracket out so it would sit flush around the housing.

Also, watch out for those AMR knockoffs! Apparently they use impellers with some type of polymer coating compared to the OEM ones of solid metal. Mine failed after a few hundred miles, impeller coating delaminated, seized up the AMR, shredded my belt and snapped off the idler tensioner. I may have accelerated the failure though, since I was running hotter without a bypass.
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Old 09-06-2023, 09:24 PM   #28
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Awesome build!! What a great idea using throttle body plates to fit the bypass valve. Let me know if you'd be willing to make an extra set!! If only the HMW kits came that way...
Probably not...my friend specially built those for me..but truthfully some 3mm steel and you can cut your own.

What are you using for the connections between sc outlet and intake manifold? Is that just two 90 abs elbows joined with a silicone coupler? And the elbows are threaded onto the plates?

I used ABS just for a test to make sure it worked. I am not moving to Stainless steel.
I ordered some 90 degree elbows off Amazon and ground them down to fit and then had them welded together....will have pic next week of the final install.

I have an M44, but using the M42 intake manifold and injectors. I took the PCV plate out and put the upper and lower manifold halves back together without it, one less plug to worry about that way.
That is a nice way do do it.

Are you still using the disa valve? One of the reasons I wanted to use the M42 manifold was so I could gut the disa easily, while keeping manifold sealed up. I remember researching something that the long runners are only beneficial to NA at higher rpm, whereas being under boost at higher rpm, we want shortest, least restrictive path as possible, but not sure how significant that impact actually is.

I did not remove any stock items

I swapped to a RHD throttle cable, which gave me a few extra feet, can run throttle all the way up to headlight easily.
Yes a little more length on that cable is nice

I also really struggled with belt alignment, def shredded a few just trying to get it all setup. Not sure if it's the bracket, or the amr housing that doesn't seem to fit properly, but I had to grind bracket out so it would sit flush around the housing.

I did not want to grind mine....nice it worked out for you. We added and removed washers to get it to work.....some of the washers were very thin to get it to stay on.

Also, watch out for those AMR knockoffs! Apparently they use impellers with some type of polymer coating compared to the OEM ones of solid metal. Mine failed after a few hundred miles, impeller coating delaminated, seized up the AMR, shredded my belt and snapped off the idler tensioner. I may have accelerated the failure though, since I was running hotter without a bypass.

This is apparently true. Especially if they say "brand new" so far mine is holding up but it has not had too much milage on it.
To me the bypass valve is essential....it also keeps it from howling at idle

Good luck on your build.
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Old 09-06-2023, 09:25 PM   #29
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I am "now moving to Stainless Steel"
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Old 09-22-2023, 11:21 PM   #30
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All the pipes swapped out to metal.

Running very well.

Cheers
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