Steering Wander - Tie Rods?

[themightyquinn]

Gotcha dave/Aceyx, thanks for the explanations. Hopefully one of the three of us in this thread having problems will get it worked out. If everyone can post back when they try something that'd be awesome.

[Tyler]

I was about to make a post until i saw this thread.

I'm having a similar issue with the steering. Mainly on the highway but is noticeable on the city streets. I feel like my car is dipping to the left an occasionaly hit a bump and feels like it's just the front driverside is bouncing up and down. I'll turn the wheel to the right and then have to turn it back to the left. I don't think it's a bent rim i'd notice that on smooth streets. I was thinking ball joint but since i've had a bad one of those b4 i know what it feels like driving. I'm kind of thinking tie rod as well. The tightness is just not there but it's just oftly bouncy at times. I wish this god damn snow and ice would melt so i could break out the jack and take a look myself. Actually was on RT 10 or 6 in RI a few weeks ago, 2 lane rd going about 55 in the left lane going around a slight bend and as i turned my car started bouncing like crazy and my steering was like crap, i honestly thought i was going to crash for a moment. I have new shocks/struts but original springs and i have 159,xxx on her right now. I'd hate to bring it to my mechanic casue seems like whenever i complain about something they say the car is fine.

[NeoPhunk]

Originally Posted by dave45056

The sway bar bushings are a split design, so nothing wrong there.

I am going to say your problem is in the rear of the car. I had the same problem, then replaced the rear subframe bushings and trailing arm bushings. Now all is well.

I would have to agree with this theory. Subframe bushings are always suspect when you experience the problems you've described.

[librider09]

My 95 ti has slop in the outer right tie rod. The tight bmw steering isnt there. Once i get my alignment i will let you know how it turns out. I wont be getting to it until next week because I will be out of town. My vote will be your tie rod(s). Good Luck

[Maverix]

I took it to a shop, and I think I have the problem figured out. My car has a lot more negative camber in the rear than the front. It's really noticeable too. I just never thought much of it. That actually explains a lot too! I'll get the car aligned once I have the money.

This usually happens on dropped cars. So take your car to the shop, and ask them if you're running more negative camber in the rear than the front.

[ClubSport]

Originally Posted by Maverix

I took it to a shop, and I think I have the problem figured out. My car has a lot more negative camber in the rear than the front. It's really noticeable too. I just never thought much of it. That actually explains a lot too! I'll get the car aligned once I have the money.

This usually happens on dropped cars. So take your car to the shop, and ask them if you're running more negative camber in the rear than the front.

The rear camber is not adjustable unless you install special eccentrics in place of the trailing arm bushings. You're pretty much stuck with what you've got when you lower the car.

My car would grab the ruts in pavement really bad and want to jump out of lane ( tramlining ). It's partially due to the 225 wide tires I run, but really, other cars run wider tires without this level of wandering. I replaced the LCA bushings with M3 offset solid ones and had no change. Had it aligned and had no change. Then I noticed what a POS design the outer ball joints are. Seriously! A split rubber donut holding your ball joint in the LCA! What a crazy idea for a car that's supposed to handle. I replaced these just last week with Meyle all metal ball joints and the tramlining is maybe 80% gone. I don't have to fight the steering wheel all the time on rutted streets. One hand will do.

If you have original rubberized outer ball joints try replacing those. I did mine in an afternoon without removing the strut, with a press and pickle fork borrowed from autozone.

[Maverix]

Originally Posted by ClubSport

The rear camber is not adjustable unless you install special eccentrics in place of the trailing arm bushings. You're pretty much stuck with what you've got when you lower the car.

Camber kits? I think there is a GB going on for the BMP kits.