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Old 12-28-2012, 02:15 PM   #136
NeoMishMoo
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I had my Y pipe burst, but I drove it about 10 miles after the fact because I was broke down in a very inconvenient place. Hopefully didn't warp the head

Anyway I also have an exhaust manifold leak so was wondering if it would be easier to lift the engine to do both jobs? It was a real PITA putting my headers on before (probably didn't do it right seeing as how my manifold leak returned).

Seeing as how I need to do two jobs in hard to reach areas. Maybe I could lift the engine a bit? Or would the transmission aspect be too much of a PITA itself?
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:58 AM   #137
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Always put the point that swapping a 328i engine is sometimes if not not all cases seems the easiest and cheapest solutions if anything happened to the Engine.. I can't say I'm waiting for my engine to explode as I'm highly maintaining it but it is ridiculous to see people pay a lot of money to fix their engine and they can pay the same amount and replace the whole thing with a way better engine and save themselves the headache!
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:48 AM   #138
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I'm not paying anyone to fix it just going to garage DIY it, seeing as how both projects (exhaust manifold & coolant pipes) involve hard to reach bolts I was wondering if it would be better to lift my engine a bit to get to everything.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:57 PM   #139
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Why there is no replacement of this plastic part. There must be some other solution or part. I am also looking for a solution of this problem.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:44 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julianmac1212 View Post
Why there is no replacement of this plastic part. There must be some other solution or part. I am also looking for a solution of this problem.
There is no other solution other than to replace it with factory or aftermarket plastics....unless you have a CNC machine or a 3D printer.

Chances are you will only have to replace it once anyways.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:17 PM   #141
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I swapped the block plastic on a '95 M42 with 150K miles and the piece broke apart in my hands.
I swapped the block and head plastic pieces on a '98 M44 with 330K miles and both were in great condition (other than o-rings being stiff).

The M42's use a higher temperature fan switch 91/99C vs the M44's 80/88. And in my case I found the M42's low speed fan circuit was not working. It was only cooling at 99C trigger point. 176F versus 210F.

In late '95 early '96 BMW decided to lower the fan switch for the 318Ti. Why? A lower temperature is less efficient, reduces fuel mileage, and increases wear/load on the alternator. There is no reason to reduce temp unless they found a pre-ignition problem and i doubt that was reason.

Perhaps BMW recognized the 318's cooling system weakness and tried to band aid it with a lower fan temperature.

Also, refurbishing the M42 cooling system is a little easier than the M44.

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Old 03-14-2013, 10:17 PM   #142
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I am new to the site. I am looking at buying a to for my son. My question is why is this not an issue on the sedan or couple? Or am I missing something and they have the same issue. Thank you
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:36 AM   #143
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It is the same issue for M44 318i Sedans. Basically a M42 (1 pipe) or M44 (2 pipes).

The 6 cyls dont have the same two failing water pipes. They just have one large failing plastic piece known as the radiator.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:36 PM   #144
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I have a 2002 BMW 318TI M Sport II .Is this applicable ?
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:13 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julianmac1212 View Post
I have a 2002 BMW 318TI M Sport II .Is this applicable ?
You've got an E46 body with N42 engine. I think that has a similar ABS flange 11537560130 on the block and a flange off the head also. It looks more robust than the M42 and M44 versions. But, it's still plastic attached directly to the block.

I'd only consider changing it at 300K km 10years unless I happened to have easy access to it beforehand.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:41 PM   #146
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Does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts for these two pipes? In the process of changing them out now.

Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:39 PM   #147
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Surely enough at 130k my y-pipe snapped within both hoses..can anyone help me find the hoses that go to the head connector? I'm going to replace them even though they look fine. Looking forward to throwing everything back together since I labeled squat.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:08 PM   #148
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#11 & 12
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...67&hg=11&fg=35
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:51 AM   #149
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awesome thanks!
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:14 AM   #150
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Two weeks after replacing the connectors i had another major leak loosing about half my coolant. Leak came from under the manifold so I tore it all down and all the hoses leading to the connectors are fine. No signs of leaking. This fixture that leads a hose to the Y looks questionable but I have no idea what it is.


Any opinions would be great thanks!
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